Evening Tails (White Tie)

[hectorm]

Congratulations, David! A total success. I wish you a calendar full of grand balls and receptions.
And although you might not be able to see it on the mirror, I think you would look even better in your tails if you dropped the dark framed glasses while wearing white tie (or get some rimless ones).

[bespokewrinkles]

David, it's a terrific ensemble. It would be even better though, if you have the tailor add significantly more waist suppression, both on the sides and in the small of the back. In my view, that's what body coats are all about. But it's a matter of taste. Congratulations!

[davidhuh]

And although you might not be able to see it on the mirror, I think you would look even better in your tails if you dropped the dark framed glasses while wearing white tie (or get some rimless ones).

Dear Hector,

thank you, and agree with you about the glasses. I have a pair of Schubert glasses but forgot them at home. They look a lot better, but they are much less comfortable than my buffalo horn pair

Cheers, David

[Rob O]

Hurrah and huzzah for David! Wonderful dressing.

[Elch]

Dear David,

this looks great in every aspect! Congratulations! And you look at total ease wearing the tails. When one achieves the elegant presence you show, then I would say it's tails done right. And this is also, why I disagree with the comment regarding the waist suppression. Body coat or not - it should not be confused with costume. I very much like the subtle drape your coat shows. And since a tailcoat should not be denied the fun of dancing, being "strapped" into it leans towards the wrong direction. Your ensemble shows balance everywhere and I like it very much. Thank you for sharing!

When you say, that your tailor has made many tailcoats for musicians - have you taken elements of a conductor's cut into the coat? I do not own white tie (...yet), but have wondered for some time, if it would be useful of any kind. The normal person probably only raises their hands during dancing, and a little drape, as in your coat, will surely suffice during that and ensure the coat is hugging the neck and shoulders firmly.

Just out of curiosity: Did you opt for a buttonhole on the left lapel? As much as I like the AA/Esky-Illustrations of carnations, I am afraid one might overcharge the boat in this day and age

[bespokewrinkles]

I disagree with the comment regarding the waist suppression. Body coat or not - it should not be confused with costume. I very much like the subtle drape your coat shows. And since a tailcoat should not be denied the fun of dancing, being "strapped" into it leans towards the wrong direction.

I disagree with you there. The danger of being "strapped into it" doesn't really apply to the evening tailcoat because it's not fastened in front.

Besides, more waist suppression doesn't necessarily mean tighter or less drape. In fact, drape can help create waist suppression. If the chest is cut with plenty of drape, then the waist can achieve a lot of apparent suppression without being tight, because the chest looks so full in relation to it. Look at how Fred Astaire's tailcoat manages to have both drape and a slim waist:

[soren]

Dear David, a mighty fine ensemble, all the fittings were definitely worth it

Cheers,
Søren

[davidhuh]

Dear David,

this looks great in every aspect! Congratulations! And you look at total ease wearing the tails. When one achieves the elegant presence you show, then I would say it's tails done right. And this is also, why I disagree with the comment regarding the waist suppression.

Dear Elch,

I forgot to reply to this earlier comment. I agree that more waist suppression "looks" sharp on pictures. I'm not so fond of it, as I want to be comfortable in my clothes in the first place. And I want to have a nice dinner out every now and then, and still be able to close my coat.

Now this doesn't apply to tails - they are open all the time anyway. So focusing on waist suppression doesn't make a lot of sense to me. In a white tie, everything is about proportion...

When you say, that your tailor has made many tailcoats for musicians - have you taken elements of a conductor's cut into the coat?

No, I have not - most musicians will require more liberty of movement with the arms and therefore some extra width to make this possible. I mentioned the tailors experience with musicians for the only reason that this man is very experienced in making tails. It is an art on its own. And you see the number of fittings it took us to get there...

I do not own white tie (...yet), but have wondered for some time, if it would be useful of any kind. The normal person probably only raises their hands during dancing, and a little drape, as in your coat, will surely suffice during that and ensure the coat is hugging the neck and shoulders firmly.

Precise, no need for a "musicians cut" if you're not a musician

Just out of curiosity: Did you opt for a buttonhole on the left lapel? As much as I like the AA/Esky-Illustrations of carnations, I am afraid one might overcharge the boat in this day and age

No buttonhole, for exactly the reason you are mentioning. A white tie is unusual enough on its own these days. This was different 80 years ago

Cheers, David

[hectorm]

I disagree with the comment regarding the waist suppression. Body coat or not - it should not be confused with costume. I very much like the subtle drape your coat shows.

I think Elch has a good point.
It would not make sense to cut tails for Orson Welles (to wear in his Citizen Kane clapping scene, for instance) the same way as for a wiry floor leader of a Fledermaus Quadrille. Different body types on top of different purposes.
Although very elegant, Mr. Astaire was quite a diminutive fellow at 5´8¨ and 134 lbs. on a good day. He benefited from extended shoulders and the whole Scholte scheme of draping and waist suppression. In the case of a white tie coat which has no closure, Mr. Astaire achieved extra sharpness by an extremely high jacket waist, very short quarters and even shorter vest that barely reaches his navel. He could afford it (or you also might say: he needed it).
IMO, David´s full rig has an excellent balance, flatters his figure and projects the exact relaxed attitude one should be looking for.