The turn-back sleeve cuffs of Louis Massini

[bespokewrinkles]

In the film Kind Hearts and Coronets, all of the coats worn by Louis Massini share the same signature turn-back sleeve cuff. Unlike a modern "gauntlet cuff", this cuff is turned back over the entire circumference of the sleeve, and the buttonholes are cut right through it.



What is the correct term for this cuff style? Do you think it would work on a modern coat?

[Man at C&A]

It's simply known as a turn back cuff. I believe applied as a separate piece to the sleeve rather than being a true turn back.

It's something I did at least a couple of times during my youth in the mid 80's when I was taking inspiration from The New Edwardian Look. I have the same on my polo coat, but on a sports coat or suit I'd now regard such an addition as being a bit too dandy.

[Noble Savage]

Doesn't look like a true turn back cuff, just a seamed cuff standing in for an 18th century turned back cuff.

[bespokewrinkles]

Doesn't look like a true turn back cuff, just a seamed cuff standing in for an 18th century turned back cuff.

Do you think it's an extra layer of fabric on top of a full length sleeve, or a detached cuff sewn on to a truncated sleeve?

[Noble Savage]

Do you think it's an extra layer of fabric on top of a full length sleeve, or a detached cuff sewn on to a truncated sleeve?

It looks like a cuff sewn onto a truncated sleeve to me. Similar button positioning to this plate:


("The Duke of Connaught in a cartoon from 1876.")

[hectorm]

Do you think it would work on a modern coat?

IMO it works very well on overcoat sleeves. I have true turn back double cuffs on a couple of bespoke OCs and also "fake" cuffs (just stitches, not even additions to a truncated sleeve) in a couple of RTW ones. They look very nice adding good balance to the heavy garments.
In the case of worsted suit jackets I tend to agree with Man at C&A. They will make it a bit fuzzy and dandyish, unless the whole piece is cut in Edwardian fashion in which case....who cares.
However, I believe that inconspicuous turn back sleeves could be a good touch for a sport jacket as part of a personalized design.