Partito of Philadelphia - Repost from the Bespoke Forum

[BenedictSpinola]

Tom,

I like the cut of your bepoke silk suit from "Partito of Philadelphia". Can you tell us a little more about it?

Spinola

[cuffthis]

This suit was made for me in 1990. I met the tailor through a client of mine, who is a real estate developer. I mentioned to him one day that I thought the suit he was wearing was very nice and fit him wonderfully. He commented it was made for him by this tailor and that he was going to visit him immediately after my meeting with him. He asked me to join him.

Well, to make a long story short, I was amazed that this tailor existed and I had never heard of him. It was obvious the quality and handwork was something I had never seen before. My client was (and still is) in a much higher tax bracket than me (as his accountant, I can confirm this). All of my joy and hope of having this tailor commission something for me was deflated when the tailor told me that his full bespoke suits start at $2,500, which for a 26 year old young professional, was not in my budget,

The tailor sensed this but was pleasant and understanding with me, as my client was apparantly a very good customer of his. As I walked around his small space, looking at the various works in process and the bolts of fabric, I noticed the silk used for this suit at the bottom of a pile of bolt ends.

I commented on it as I had never seen silk suiting fabric before. The tailor told me that it had been sitting in his shop for years, purchased by a long passed on customer. He told me he would make a suit for me with this fabric and all I would have to do was pay the labor. Even though the labor costs alone were a significant purchase for me, I commissioned the tailor to make the suit for me.

6 weeks and two fittings later, the suit arrived. There is no breast pocket on the suit as the tailor apparantly called and asked what kind of pocket I wanted but I never got the message. Wanting to finish the coat, he simply didn't put one on. I was unhappy with this at first but I kinda like it now, as it adds a certain custom look, as do the welt pockets, which were the tailors idea.

This suit may well be the best constructed article in my closet. The hand work and finishings are simple devine.

The sad thing is I rarely wear it. There never seems to be a "right" time to wear a silk suit. I work in a very conservative environment at a CPA firm and silk suits would be looked at as highly suspicious. This suit get worn 1-2 times a year, which is sad because I really like it and the construction is outstanding.

[BenedictSpinola]

Tom,

There is a simple solution to the problem of not getting enough use of this suit - you should throw more garden parties. All you need is some Pimm's, lemonade, strawberries and some nice weather. (In my neck of the woods we often have to do without the latter.) Do you have any other articles of clothing made by this tailor?

Spinola

[cuffthis]

Spinola,

Yes, I have a grey muted glenplaid suit from this tailor which is also featured on my photo album. I also have a green tweed sport coat and a white shantung silk dinner jacket that I wore to my wedding from this tailor.

Tom

[zjpj]

Tom,
I love the Alan Flusser DB chalkstripe suit you have posted. The shot from the back is particular nice - what a shoulder.
Regards,
Zach

[Guest]

I believe we pay far too little to local variations in style and custom. Philadelphia's style is quite different from NYC's for example. While many of the items Aldens lists in his suggested minimum wardrobe would suggest flair in NYC, they would demonstrate eccentricity here. Philadelphia men do not wear pocket sqaures. Nor blazers. They do not carry umbrellas or wear hats (I saw one man wearing a fashionable hat and he looked quite handsome I must admit). I probably dress with more flair than most, and though I think my goals are laudable only G-d knows whether I look good or not.

There are differences between lawyers in their bland suits and doctors, with their usually disgusting clothing. Many doctors wear ties (depending on the hospital). I am a consultant and I do not. I am not alone, but I cannot say there is one right or wrong. I would not exacltly call my dress business casual either. I try to look smart with color. I want to look individual and I eschew the aesthetic of the herd. This is a more difficult effect to pull off, and I always strive.

Regarding Partito, he is the only tailor Centofanti recommends besides himself in Philadelphia. Centofanti was reluctant to do CMT but happily performs alterations on any garment. His buttons do not really kiss. His favorite tailor in America is Fiorivanti. He charges about 2500 for a suit depending on fabric (I think the suit he made for me in Scabal worsted was 2600). Partito is much more expensive now, I think 4000 to start with. And he has a six month wait and reportedly really only sews for a few wealthy clients.

[Mark Seitelman]

Dr. B, I am not surprised to read that Philadelphians do not wear pocket squares and hats. Indeed, very, very few New Yorkers wear them. Only the best dressed, of which there are very few, wear them.

I think that Mr. Alden's list is an inspirational one for the those seeking to be well dressed as traditonal gentleman. If the list were based on what the average male actually wears, then it would list 3 pairs of jeans (one new, one faded with holes, and one that shrank and is too tight).

However, is it true that the good men of Philadelphia do not wear blazers? I thought that the navy blazer was the staple of almost every man's wardrobe as indicated by its appearance in every mens clothing catalogue.

Also, Dr. B, you do not wear a tie on your rounds? How are you supposed to help your patients on the road to mental health if you do not set a sartorial example? I cannot imagine Dr. Freud without a tie as I cannot imagine him saying "hello, my name is Sig, and I'll be your anaylst for today!"

Cheers.

[Guest]

Wait, I'm supposed to tell them my name?