Shirtmaker in Milan?

[davidhuh]

Which tailor did you use?

Dear Byron,

this was indeed a question. Where do you take a young man for his first bespoke suit, when there are no tailors left in his country of residence? After long reflection and discussions with the young man himself, we went to Rubinacci where he feels being in very good hands and for many years to come. Mr Luca Rubinacci was indeed very helpful, being familiar with the needs and priorities of men at younger age.

Cheers, David

[HristoStefanov]

Where do you take a young man for his first bespoke suit, when there are no tailors left in his country of residence?

This is very strange statement. You said the young man lives in Berlin.
You have one of the best living tailors there -> Volkmar Arnulf.
He is really a great tailor and he is still working. I met him December 2015 and he made a very very good impression. I did not ordered anything because I was saving for bespoke shoes.
Read more about him here:
http://www.the-journal-of-style.com/tag/volkmar-arnulf/
http://www.the-journal-of-style.com/201 ... lf-part-1/
http://www.arnulf-massatelier.de/
I had the feeling that his strength is in being very pedantic on proportions. He would cut anything you want, but if you leave it to his opinion, he would choose the best proportions of the lapels and the best sizes and positions for the pockets for your body type.
Apart from that I experienced a very interesting situation - I found an interesting fabric within his piles of fabric bunches and asked him about it and he said - "Oh, this fabric is already too old. I would not recommend it."
I was very surprised, because now we have a vintage fabric hype where many people are interested in old fabrics. He explained to me that wool changes its structure with the time and hair looses its elasticity making it lose its quality and that he can inspect a fabric under microscope to see if it is still usable.
I found that very interesting because most tailors would simply be glad to sell you old fabric gathering dust in their workshop - but not Volkmar Arnulf. He is a man of honor and perfection.


Then we go on with more tailors in Berlin:
Kathrin Emmer -> she is the choice of the author of the bestselling book about bespoke tailoring - The Gentleman - Bernhard Rötzel.
http://handgefertigte-massanzuege.de/be ... nzuege.de/

Than you have Purwin and Radczun -> http://purwin-radczun.com/

Than you have Egon Brandstetter -> http://egonbrandstetter.de/

Than you have Amann -> http://www.herrenschneider-amann.de/

So actually there are quite a bunch traditional tailors in his city of residence.
And Volkmar Arnulf is one of the best tailors in the world. The quality of his work is not worse than Rubinacci.
Rubinacci is more of a hype for me - you can get the former Rubinacci head cutters Panico and Paone for half the price of a Rubinacci suit and the same quality. This makes little sense for young people with limited budget unless one goes for a recognizable label.

[davidhuh]

Where do you take a young man for his first bespoke suit, when there are no tailors left in his country of residence?

This is very strange statement. You said the young man lives in Berlin.

Dear Hristo,
thank you for your feedback. I'm aware of Mr Arnulf, and most other tailors you are mentioning. The young man's country of residence is Switzerland, and he is studying in Berlin for just one year.

So actually there are quite a bunch traditional tailors in his city of residence.
And Volkmar Arnulf is one of the best tailors in the world. The quality of his work is not worse than Rubinacci.
Rubinacci is more of a hype for me - you can get the former Rubinacci head cutters Panico and Paone for half the price of a Rubinacci suit and the same quality. This makes little sense for young people with limited budget unless one goes for a recognizable label.

What contributed to the decision is the fact that I'm a client at Rubinacci for a number of years and very happy with their performance. And of course I'm aware of cheaper options doing similar work, but I wanted to make sure the man is in safe hands and able to communicate should he go there on his own. And believe me, there is no "recognisable label" whether in his coat or the trousers.

Cheers, David

[HristoStefanov]

Hello David,

thank you for the clarifications. Now the decision is understandable.

Best regards
Hristo