Cheshire Clothing

[Hesketh]

Cheshire clothing is a factory making for a wide range of customers, from Huntsman, to Oswald Boateng to Burburry. Basically they will make to whatever price point the customer wants, at least at the wholesale end, so for some they will fuse, for others they do hand tailoring. Examples of both are available at their factory shop in Crewe.

I believe for their MTM programme at the factory they only do hand tailoring, and looking at Benedicts picture they make a beautiful job of it.

Benedict, if you have the time, I would be interested to hear more about the measuring and fitting process. Looking at your picture it would appear clear that the MTM is much more than simply chest and arm measurements. How much did he factor posture etc into the pattern?

Best regards

Rob

[BenedictSpinola]

Rob,

I have to say that it was something of a no-brainer for the tailor in that their off the rack fits me OK. To begin with, he started taking measurements whilst I was in shirtsleeves - chest, waist, shoulder, hips, arms and then he asked me to try on some coats. I tried on a 2 button and the fit was good, though the coat was a little short and had a little too much room in the waist. He took some measurements with the coat on (e.g. the length) and he also pinned the waist. He also surreptitiously noted my posture whilst I was wandering around the shop.

I then spent a good 30 minutes going through 3 books of Porter and Harding tweed from Harrisons before deciding on the herringbone. I also specified all of the usual details, and remembered to ask for kissing buttons because Manton says that they’re “proper” .

Whilst I think they did a very good job, I can't say how they'd do with someone who is further from one of their standard "fittings".

Spinola

[TVD]

I have never worn anything by Cheshire, but I looked at their MTM range many years ago when they were still called Chester Barrie, and later saw their work when they supplied Ralph Lauren's Purple Lable (which I believe is now manufactured in Italy).

Their handwork and stitching looked better than most of Savile Row then, and could even give most of the silly high end Italians a run for their money. I cannot comment on the inner construction, obviously. But their clothes always looked absolutely beautiful with exquisitely neat detailing.

The pictures you posted look extremely good. And while I share this forum's preference for a high buttoning point, I should note that this is a matter of taste, and the style produced by the cutter at Cheshire looks excellent. simply moving the buttoning point up will necessitate an adjustment of the pockets, the lapels and most importantly the front of the skirt. I guess one would have to cut it more open (otherwise there will be too large and square an expanse of cloth below the button), but this is only an idea, I am in no way qualified to give any specific advice. Really, the jacket you have looks very elegant and natural, and I could not vouch that any changes could produce a markedly better alternative.

Were I not catered for by two splendid tailors who currently get my custom, I would be tempted to make a trip up to Crewe. It is really an insult to talk about "value" in relation to a garnment that can stand its corner on the basis of its merits alone, but I must admit that this really is a bargain. And I am glad that Cheshire survived the troubles of the Chester Barrie administration. I wish them luck, and please report on your next projects, it really is a delightful coat.

[BenedictSpinola]

TVD,

I had it in mind to position the button point and pockets only slightly higher - maybe only 1/2 an inch but will bear in mind what you've said (and relay it on to the tailor) when I get my next coat or suit.

Best wishes,

Spinola