Japanese LAST magazine (out now)

[bengal-stripe]

I just got my copy of LAST Vol. 6 (published by Esquire Japan)
http://www.esquire.co.jp/last/

It is an absolute delight. Although I cannot read a single Japanese sign, I enjoyed the magazine from back to front. The theme is Americana and it features US shoe manufacturers (large and small) and a survey of bespoke shoes and suits in New York (including “our own” Leonard Logsdale). There is also a feature on John Lobb (St James’s) and on Japanese leather workshops and bag makers.

Well worth visiting your local Japanese bookshop and placing an order.

[mpolanthan]

Just received my copy. Very nice, though Vol 3. is still my favorite.

Any idea what shoes (boots?) Tom Wolfe is wearing?

[manton]

Those look like canvas topped ankle boots, i.e., the white part is sort of a built-in spat; it's stitched to the leather.

[manton]

Should have added: I can't be sure that is indeed a canvas-topped ankle boot. Wolfe is also known to wear real spats. But I do know that Wolfe prefers the canvas-topped boot.

[Huzir]

Spats, if I recall correctly, have straps, which these don't appear to have. They resemble the EG bespoke boots in our photojournal, except those are topped with felt and not canvas.

[alden]

I do believe that Tony Gaziano make the shoes for Wolfe. I did see some very nice black oxfords with a black suede top made for him by Tony.

M Alden

[Collarmelton]

Nicolosi gave me a copy of the article on him to have translated. If it turns out well, I'll post it. Sure hope it says only nice things. It appears from the close up shot of the shoes Tom Wolfe is wearing that they are of fabric or some kind of white buckskin.

[mpolanthan]

Nicolosi gave me a copy of the article on him to have translated. If it turns out well, I'll post it. Sure hope it says only nice things. It appears from the close up shot of the shoes Tom Wolfe is wearing that they are of fabric or some kind of white buckskin.

I would certainly appreciate seeing the translation when available. I'd be curious to know if Tony made this pair as well.

[bengal-stripe]

I don’t think these particular shoes are Tony’s handiwork.

I saw Tony last Thursday and I had a copy of the magazine with me. Tony mentioned that was in the process of making another pair for Tom Wolfe (I believe the button boots in the photojournal are TW’s), but he did not claim the shoes in the photograph as his work.

I’m hoping the people at Esquire/Japan see the light and add a supplement with English translations to the magazine (as L’Uomo used to do).

Rolf

[mpolanthan]

I don’t think these particular shoes are Tony’s handiwork.

I saw Tony last Thursday and I had a copy of the magazine with me. Tony mentioned that was in the process of making another pair for Tom Wolfe (I believe the button boots in the photojournal are TW’s), but he did not claim the shoes in the photograph as his work.

I’m hoping the people at Esquire/Japan see the light and add a supplement with English translations to the magazine (as L’Uomo used to do).

Rolf

Must be fun to hang out with your favorite shoemaker whenever you feel like it.
What do you think of the EG model on page 89? Not the Southwold but the combination balmoral shoe with no model name specified. I don't care for the black calf/grey suede combination, but I find it nicer than, say, the Gladstone. Any idea what the model name might be?

[Bic Pentameter]

I do believe that Tony Gaziano make the shoes for Wolfe. I did see some very nice black oxfords with a black suede top made for him by Tony.

M Alden

The caption on the second or third page of the article identifies the boots as bespoke by Jason Amesbury of London.

Bic

[mpolanthan]

I do believe that Tony Gaziano make the shoes for Wolfe. I did see some very nice black oxfords with a black suede top made for him by Tony.

M Alden

The caption on the second or third page of the article identifies the boots as bespoke by Jason Amesbury of London.

Bic

Thank you for translating the caption.

[bengal-stripe]

I don't care for the black calf/grey suede combination,

Oh, that is what it is, suede!
I thought it was grey towelling fabric.

[Collarmelton]

I have finally gotten a translation of the short piece on Vincent Nicolosi, discussed above, which I have only edited slightly for clarity:

You will find Vincent Nicolosi's studio in a quiet building on Madison Avenue, in midtown Manhattan.

He came to America 45 years ago from Palermo, Sicily, but his sentiment is more like that of an expatriate than that of an immigrant. His family weren’t tailors, but he became interested in tailoring 5 years old, when his mother asked him if he wanted to have his suits made. Since he studied tailoring in school in Italy, you might think his style is solely of Italian heritage, but he insists, in a heavy Italian accent, "I am Italian, but that doesn't mean that I make Italian taste suits, rather I created my own original style."

When asked what's characteristic of his suits, he showed us two white jackets that were hanging in his studio. One was made out of silk, the other one was in linen." Look at this." he said and flipped the jacket to show us three pockets inside. "You see the first one is for cell phone, the second one is for a comb, and the third one is for a pen."

Then he said the jacket was especially created for his good customer, the author Tom Wolfe. This is a good example of how he creates his own style. “You can call your jacket your friend. If it doesn't fit right on your body and is not comfortable, even walking can be stressful. But you are always the boss." This is how he explains relationship between the clothes and the wearer.

His inspiration comes not from not old magazines or movies, but from his head. He sometimes has hard time sleeping at night when he gets a great idea. ”I came into this world to be a tailor. If I were born again, I would do the same work. I don't think I can find more creative work than doing this," he says passionately.

Suddenly, the phone rang. It was a call was from Mr. Wolfe, saying he is coming to his studio for a fitting. "Mr. Wolfe knows about you, you can stay." Mr. Nicolosi said. So we decided to wait for him. We waited anxiously, and then Mr. Wolfe showed up in one of his famous white suits.

Mr. Wolfe praised him, “Mr. Nicolosi stands atop Mount Olympus. There are a lot of good tailors in England, but his creative process is really outstanding."

The white suits are a result of this strong relationship between the one and only Mr. Wolfe and Mr. Nicolosi, who created his signature style over 30 years.

[mpolanthan]

Collarmelton - Thank you for posting the translation.