How wide is too wide?

[uppercase]

Is there inflation going on in the width of lapels?
Particularly DB lapels?

I was struck by the seeming trend in exaggerated bespoke DB lapels , even by conservative makers when looking at the Permanent Style post
June 22,2015 entitled 'Tailoring Symposium' showing 5 bespoke tailors' styles.

Is it me or is that how you would want DB lapels to look?

I am always a little skeptical that when display models are made up, that they exaggerate a house style and are not what an everyday customer would receive or want.…. perhaps trending toward "fashion" even though bespoke.

On the other hand perhaps that kind of flair is what's wanted in a DB ….?

[hectorm]

I was struck by the seeming trend in exaggerated bespoke DB lapels , even by conservative makers when looking at the Permanent Style post June 22,2015 entitled 'Tailoring Symposium' showing 5 bespoke tailors' styles.

Cifonelli and Sexton have always had those extra wide lapels on their DB jackets, reaching at about one inch of their sleevehead seams. I wouldn´t say it´s a trend in their case. Although I recognize that in the past both houses have had slimmer lapels when the fashion dictated them, so I guess that you can call it "a regression to the mean".
I don´t know that much about Panico or Liverano, although I can say that it would seem like a trend since neither -contrary to Cifonelli and Sexton- have regularly worn what they are cutting and promoting nowadays (in this case the extra wide DB lapels).
But I didn´t expect lapels so wide in the case of John Hitchcock. They look good, though. Very handsome and updated. Not exactly what the average and more conservative A&S client would commission.
Of course, I believe that the right width of DB lapels is a matter that goes beyond trends and has to do with overall balance of the suit. IMO, a tight bumfreezer with skinny trousers (fashion trend) would look even more ridiculous with extra wide lapels. A draped DB with wider trousers would look its best with generous lapels.

[davidhuh]

Of course, I believe that the right width of DB lapels is a matter that goes beyond trends and has to do with overall balance of the suit. (...) A draped DB with wider trousers would look its best with generous lapels.

Very much agree with Hector here, in the end it is not so much about the width itself but the balance cut/cloth/owner's personality.
I love the Sexton DB and the Hitchcock. The Cifonelli is too much drama and calling for attention, I would get bored of it. Some Napoli tailors went over board with DB lapels - I think there was a discussion here some time ago. But I don't perceive wide DB lapels to be a "trend". The DB itself is back, and I'm very pleased about that

Cheers, David

[Melcombe]

^^^^
That must be correct. Surely the better tailor will encourage the client towards a lapel width and scale to balance the cut of the suit.

Yet... lapel width. like tie width seems often quoted as a trend marker : wide lapels in the 70s following narrow lapels of the 60s. This rather misses the point of the 'fashionable' cuts that they, er, adorned.

The shape and scale of lapel is critical to the impression of a suit; lack of attention to that factor marks out the poor or mass produced suit. We look for a good lie of a collar and hand stitching to a lapel as a mark of the better garment.

I prefer a wider, larger lapel on my preferred 2B/SB format as I have disproportionately wide shoulders and a large (fat!) head - they don't look wide on me.

[aston]

Could the Hitchcock lapels just be as they are as, given the colour of the cloth, the suit would be considered as quite informal?

[hectorm]

If I´m not missing your point: do you mean that he might have chosen narrower lapels for a more formal suit?
Mr. Hitchcock´s DB peak lapels have always been wider than those of the average suit coming out from A&S. I believe this has to be more with a good eye for the general balance of the jacket that anything else.
Maybe you are right and the lapels on his linen suit are even a little bit wider than usual because he wanted more flair for his informal occasions (he´s wearing it with tassel loafers).

One thing that called my attention was that -during an event in which each tailor was presenting and discussing his house style- Richard Anderson came out as the most subdued of all. Not exactly the position I would have expected for the original Huntsman´s style.

[uppercase]

These are beautiful suits though worn by a mannequin.
But I do particularly like the AS.
And as noted in the Permanent Style comments, this AS does appear in the photo to have less drape and a more square shoulder though AS says no - it is just the photo.
Nevertheless, a great looking coat when looking a bit more structured than usual AS.

[rodes]

The lapel widths on these DB suits are slightly too wide for my taste. My own are 4.5 inches at the widest part, with very light shoulder padding and high arm hole. This seems about right for my tall, slender frame. The DB suit makes a statement no matter the styling. Best to keep its strong lines as conservative as possible.

[hectorm]

These are beautiful suits though worn by a mannequin.

UC, my comments above were in reference to the suits actually worn by the tailors themselves. See link below
http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2015/06 ... -room.html

[lordsuperb]

Are these lapels too wide? I use to think the size/width of a lapel should be based on the width of the wearers chest/shoulders. However, I now believe the size of the lapel should be based on the styling of the actual suit being made. I'm still a rookie and only own one double breasted suit so I may be wrong.

[lordsuperb]

The real question should be when is it appropriate to have a belly vs none to a minimal amount of belly in the lapels:

[alden]

The width of the lapel is based on how good you are going to feel wearing it.

The only comment I would make is that one should avoid short, wide and therefore, as a result, stubby lapels like the ones seen in the first picture of the bearded man in the green suit. I guess that says it all.

If you are going to choose a wider lapel then make sure the button point is low enough to give it enough sweep and line.

If you are going to make a mistake, be slightly too wide as opposed to too thin. Thin lapels are like emaciated, and now banned, top models.

Cheers

[hectorm]

The real question should be when is it appropriate to have a belly vs none to a minimal amount of belly in the lapels.

A fact of life is that you can only have a decent "belly" when the lapel is significantly curved from top to bottom. This brings up another whole set of stylistic considerations.
IMO, a "belly" is more appropriate (it looks better) on a dinner jacket or in the case of DB jackets, when they are 4x1 (not so much on a 6x2).
The real question would be: where do you find a tailor who can really pull off an elegant "belly"?