Coming to an end of a 15 year relationship ...

[old henry]

Nice how the fronts cup the form. He knew how to work a canvas
Beautiful tailor craft.

[alden]

Nice how the fronts cup the form. He knew how to work a canvas
Beautiful tailor craft.

Old Henry! Nice to see you here.

Frank, yes, these coats are lovely examples of the craft. What particular treatment of the canvas, that you allude to in your post, works to improve the cupping of the fronts?

Cheers

[old henry]

Michael,

Applying a canvas to a coat front takes a very nimble, delicate ,well trained hand. Just this one procedure takes years of apprenticeship under a careful eye. To gracefully coax the canvas to cooperate with the coat front ( cloth ) so that it falls gently and easily, and does not " kick out " or be flat and lifeless, is a true mystery of the craft. Too much is too much. Too little is too little. Just the right amount of ease must be given to the coat front along with just the right amount of fullness in the canvas to coax the canvas-cloth combination to form easily and gracefully to the body. The making of the canvas itself is another story. Too bad this tailor is retiring.

Frank Shattuck

[alden]

The making of the canvas itself is another story.

I think we would like to hear that story. So how is a canvas made in a true Bench made process?

Cheers

[old henry]

Michael,

So as not to hijack Vassilis's post about his honorable tailor I will answer your question in his honor. He will have used the exactly the same method. But first I would like to say that each old tailor who retires now days is an end of something beautiful. When the old tailors who taught Vassils's tailor retired, it was not an end as he would carry on their spirit in his work. And he would carry on the spirit of all the old tailors who taught the old tailors who taught him. But this is an end. There is no one left to carry these things on.

IMG_0628 by The London Lounge, on Flickr

The canvas is the foundation of the coat. It gives the coat it's structure and carries the intended style. Hair cloth and "hymo "(goat hair and wool ) are cut off of the individuals pattern and hand stitched together using very precise, clever old methods to throw structure over the shoulders and to give body to the chest. It takes years for an eager young apprentices to really master just this one step in the making of a bench made suit.

A true benchmade suit must have a handmade canvas.
FS

[hectorm]

So as not to hijack Vassilis's post about his honorable tailor I will answer your question in his honor.

How very thoughtful of you, Frank.
But I see that in your post not much is revealed about the secrets of the hand made canvas itself. I guess that there´s not much one can write down about that process or learning by just reading.
It´s like expecting a Renaissance artist to describe what brushes and strokes he used for completing the Madonna.
I hope Vassilis´s tailor left some of those secrets in the hands of a new generation.

[old henry]

Yes Hector
You are right. Very hard to explain what my hands know. It's not in my head.
One day I will do a video of the process.
I would also like to do a video of the hand applied lapel.
Vlassils old tailors heart would be warmed.
I think that you would find it interesting. Very very old things.
Thank you. FS

[yialabis]

Frank i will warm his heart by translating word by word parts of this thread. Unfortunately , his words exactly "there is no one left that is willing to sit next him long enough in enthusiasm and patience so that he can pass his art on .. I think this is what saddens him more !
Thank you for your truly graceful and generous way ..

Vassilis

[yialabis]

...and photos of the LAST DB to come soon in this thread !

[old henry]

Sad and Heart warming , Vassilis.
All of the old world goes with him.
And I am not being poetic. It's true.
Everything old and slow and honorable and humble goes with him.

Let them go
to Savile Row.
For they do not know.

Frank.

[yialabis]

So true , all of it !
Thank you Frank
Vassilis

[yialabis]

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[Screaminmarlon]

Beautiful suit!
This is leaving on a high note. Is the cloth semi milled or just worsted? (pardon my mundane questions)

[alden]

Great suit. I love the design of the cloth. Hard to find. We should make a LL version in blue.

Cheers

[old henry]

Old world lapels, gorge, button stance and cut.
Stays right on the shirt collar. Supple tailoring.
A worthy cloth for this mans hands.
Truly a beautiful suit.