Cloth for first casual tweed suit

[hectorm]

I quite like the Alsport range.

As a real tweed lover, for some time I rejected the whole idea of the "town tweeds" by Minnis. The tweed-patterned lighter and worsted Alsport cloths (not the wooly heavier original Alsports) looked a bit flat to my eye. Same for the tweed-patterned H&P Glorious Twelfths.
I have to confess that I have come around in my opinion, and now recognize that there is a role those 12oz worsted cloths can play in your wardrobe.
I have, in recent years, commissioned two MTM suits in heavier Cheviot. Impressive garments both... that almost never do I get to wear. I suspect that if I had those suits in the Alsport donegal or windowpane designs (with only 60% of the weight), I would be wearing them "rus in urbe" all the time.

[YoungLawyer]

After sending off for endless samples, I think I've narrowed the choice down to grey (as I'll probably have more university teaching use than time in the country), and so these three are currently the most likely:
http://www.intweed.co.uk/goods-for-sale ... -tweed-582
http://www.intweed.co.uk/goods-for-sale ... -tweed-581
http://www.intweed.co.uk/goods-for-sale ... -tweed-579
The P&H Thornproof in grey donegal was also a contender as there is some interest in the flecks of colour.

Of these, the herringbone seems the more versatile pattern. I think both just about work with dark brown shoes and horn buttons, (rather than black) but will consider that further over the next few weeks before commissioning this suit. I've just collected a worsted suit from the tailor I intend to use, and will wear that for a few weeks before making this order.

Meanwhile, I'm considering the idea of a half-belt back. Can this ever work with a single vent, or are the styles mutually exclusive?

[hectorm]

Meanwhile, I'm considering the idea of a half-belt back. Can this ever work with a single vent, or are the styles mutually exclusive?

A half-belt does not belong in the back of a regular single-vent lounging suit jacket. IMO it would look as a superfluous decoration product of a mere after thought. In order to work its best, the half-belt should be an integral part of a jacket with action back, or some pleats or a yoke. No vents is the best. Side vents if you must.

[Screaminmarlon]

It took me more than 10 years to have this cloth made up:





It's fairly heavy and dense (20oz plus), but will come handy in winter

[hectorm]

Very unique, Screaminmarlon, at that weight. Enjoy it!
The picture seems to show a brushed finish. Closer to one of those Loden mixing wool and alpaca, than a tweed (maybe a thick cheviot).
Any story behind the cloth?

[davidhuh]

Caro Sreamin,

another beauty, congratulations - are you spoiling yourself a little? And why did you wait so long, for the warmest winter ever here in Europe?

Cheers, David

[Concordia]

Caro Sreamin,

another beauty, congratulations - are you spoiling yourself a little? And why did you wait so long, for the warmest winter ever here in Europe?

Cheers, David

Winter starts next week-- three months for things to change!

[Screaminmarlon]

But we're having a bit of fog back, here in Milan, David

I bought the cloth a few years ago, during a trip for my usual search for a Bronze Eagle or something similar. I saw the cloth and thought it was a bit bold, but I was attracted somehow: the design and substance of the cloth.
I first bought a lenght for trousers, then I came back and bought a coat's lenght (there was only enough cloth for a couple suits).
Then I waited until I forgot it: at last it went to the taylor together with the RAF Mistral. I was reminded of it by recent Esquire 35.

@Hectorm: it's a twill and it has a hard, dry finish yet it seems mottled because of the various colours of the yarns.

[davidhuh]

But we're having a bit of fog back, here in Milan, David

Screamin, it was first foggy and then rainy today in London. I was in LL double flannel (suit & raglan), feeling warm like an old horse (and pleasantly reminded of my old days in the army). Winter used to be winter

@Hectorm: it's a twill and it has a hard, dry finish yet it seems mottled because of the various colours of the yarns.

Very interesting - I would never have guessed that! The mystery of old cloth - but I had to smile of your story, because I have just been digging out an old piece of LL cloth. I think this was a never made Prince Tweed trial cloth, very elegant. Pictures to come in a few months

Cheers, David

[Screaminmarlon]

Please David, post the pics: I'm really fond of the Prince Tweed and by circumstance I'm wearing mine today. Is it the same spec as the run?
Flannel is a peach to wear these days

[rodes]

Fine heavy cloth, fine pattern, fine tailoring, fine suit. My compliments.

[Screaminmarlon]

Thank you Rodes

[hectorm]

YoungLawyer:
it´s been a few months since your last post and I was wondering about the final decision, how the suit turned out and how you have worn it this winter. I was rooting for the Kirkton 579 and I hope it made it. Please let us know.

[YoungLawyer]

I'll have pictures soon!

[DFR]

I'll have pictures soon!

How soon? It would be good to see one of your commissions in some detail, profile, back/front with and without the coat and the inside of the coat. It sounds a lot but does enable both the cutters skills as well as those of the tailor.