Linen suit fabric weight

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Biggles
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Tue Jun 23, 2015 1:19 pm

Gentlemen,
It is a pleasure to read and learn for the threads on LL. Hopefully, you would like to share your knowledge on linen fabric weight for a linen suit.

The suit will be worn in a hot climate (above 30degC for most of the year) with quite humid summer nights. First I considered using W Bill Fine Irish Linen 380g (12/13oz) but with the above in mind I thought it might be a bit too thick and warm. Then I looked at Harrisons Mersolair where the majority is 280g (and a few in 330g), but it might wrinkle to easy.

The question, then, is at what weight do I find the balance between drape and cooling? Suggestions on other linen manufacturer?

Thanks in advance!
Biggles
Concordia
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Tue Jun 23, 2015 1:32 pm

There are London Lounge linens not too far off W Bill in weight. Holland & Sherry also has heavy linens. Whether these are TOO heavy is up to you. I can deal with that weight even though I run warm. Part of that is wearing a linen shirt as well. That makes humidity less of a problem.
davidhuh
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Tue Jun 23, 2015 3:32 pm

Dear Biggles,

Concordia is right, I keep it the same. Note that weave density is another factor. Light linen = dense weave, heavier linen, more open weave. Dense weave feels warmer, because air circulation is better with open weaves.

Cheers,
David
aston
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Tue Jun 23, 2015 7:16 pm

I have several pairs of trousers from Dugdale's bunch 143 linen which is a 280g weight. They wear very cool and don't crease too much at all. I have not, however, had this cloth made up into a coat, so cannot comment on that.
hectorm
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Tue Jun 23, 2015 8:27 pm

Biggles wrote: First I considered using W Bill Fine Irish Linen 380g (12/13oz) but with the above in mind I thought it might be a bit too thick and warm. Then I looked at Harrisons Mersolair where the majority is 280g (and a few in 330g), but it might wrinkle to easy.
Although those temperatures are brutal, I would still steer away from flimsy linen and stick to the heavier one (above 10 oz). Only have a skeleton lining for the jacket.
Be aware that W Bill is now also part of Harrisons and its collections are not what they used to be. Your tailor will find that most of the linen is out of stock.
davidhuh
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Tue Jun 23, 2015 10:36 pm

aston wrote:I have several pairs of trousers from Dugdale's bunch 143 linen which is a 280g weight. They wear very cool and don't crease too much at all. I have not, however, had this cloth made up into a coat, so cannot comment on that.
Dear Aston,

as you, I have several trousers from this bunch. Too light for suiting / coating. The LL linen is great, and so is/was W. Bill (see hectorm's message).

Cheers,
David
Biggles
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Thu Jun 25, 2015 11:50 am

Gents,

thanks for your thoughts and comments - much appreciated.

I will have a look at the other suggested manufacturer's and see if I can find something I like, preferably above 300g.

Best Regards
Biggles
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