Bespoke Shoe Leather Question

[dopey]

Has anyone ever seen a leather that largely appeared black, but was really blue or burgundy? Perhaps the base coat would be blue or burgundy, but it was antiqued, heavily, with black. Another possibility would be just a very very dark burgundy or blue. It occurred to me that such a leather might be a nice way to add the subtlest amount of color to what would otherwise be an austere pair of shoes.

If you have come across this, what did you think?

[jcusey]

I have been told that Lobb Paris has just such a leather (black with blue highlights), although I have never seen it myself. I have seen a sort of antiqued black leather in Edward Green's bespoke swatch book, among other places. This latter has a mottled appearance, with splotches ranging in color from graphite gray to pitch black. I can't say that I particularly liked it.

Blue-black or burgundy-black leather, on the other hand, sounds almost attractive enough for me to overcome my aversion to black shoes.

[dopey]

Paul Davies had a sample made up in the "antiqued" black, which was as you described. I thought it was unattractive in a compelling sort of way. He wouldn't even let me think about it.

[jcusey]

I can't imagine how I forgot this other example: I've recently seen a Mantellassi shoe that was made from a leather dyed dark brown and finished with black polish. It was so dark that both I and the salesman thought initially that it was black. Only when you got it under bright lights could you see the brown tones. The effect was very attractive.

[Concordia]

Lattanzi has an antique black that looks quite black with a burgundy undercurrent. Not sure how I feel about that--- I have other fish to fry before that becomes necessary.

[TVD]

I would be rather careful experimenting with this. A few years ago I bought a pair of black Berluti RTW shoes. They were actually completely black, no antiquing or whatever was supposed to have been done to them.

As I wore wore over the years, and these were office knockabouts, really, so not much spared, they suddenly went red where the weather and spit polishing had removed the topcoat of black wax and somehow bleached out the leather underneath. It got to the stage where I had them re-dyed pitch black. I am somewhat particular about brown shoes for business. By the by, this problem had not occured to any other Berluti shoes I have. Obviously a consitency issue here.

I think that such an antique finish may not be stable, or rather the hue will change over time as you wear your shoes. To keep them exactly as designed may take a lot of time and effort on maintenance.

[bengal-stripe]

Subtlety done it can look rather attractive. Here is an example from Altan in Paris:

No idea whether it started off as black or oxblood leather.
For more ideas about patinations:
http://www.altanbottier.com/1.aspx

[dopey]

Thank you, bengal-stripe. That photo from Altan Bottier is very close to what I had in mind. Perhaps a bit more oxblood showing than I was envisioning, but very close. I cannpt tell, but I assume that is not a cap-toe with the cap in oxblood, but rather a plain toe where the patination is just very concentrated at the toe, but blended at the border where it begins.

[Guest]

My shoemaker, Bestetti, always Starts from dark brown to get black; and so does Tony, if I understood Correctly. Perhaps that allow the Colour to be less ''boring".