Patch pockets

[Melcombe]

Dear folks,

My tweed-patch-pocket-project-that-isn't came to a conclusion today as I collected the finished article - with slant flap pockets.



I have to say that I really am delighted with the finished article. The Dugdale White Rose Saxony is lovely - soft, not too heavy and a super spring to it. I would also add that it's another classic case of the swatch giving almost no help in understanding what the cloth looks like at scale.

A closer view (in rather yellow artificial light):



So the patch pocket venture will wait for another day. In particular, I think I need a new s/b boating jacket (blazer) in something well ventilated but substantial - probably not barathea. Any recc's?

Regards

David

ps - I also collected a pair of charcoal flannels (Dugdales again) that are super-heavy (16oz +?). If anyone ever had any doubt about entering on the slippery slope of bespoke, surely a useful pair of trousers is a good place to start. These compare to my old pair of RTW Gieves flannels like a Rembrandt would to an iPhone selfie.

[hectorm]

I think I need a new s/b boating jacket (blazer) in something well ventilated but substantial - probably not barathea. Any recc's?

Dear Melcombe,
Fortunately there´s no shortage of cloths well suited for a blazer out there. My "all purpose" warm weather blazer is made of Hardy Minnis Fresco. It´s light and breathable but still very crease resistant and strong stuff. Ideal for outdoors. I would certainly recommend it.
BTW, your Saxony jacket looks great. I particularly like the swelled edges.

[Frederic Leighton]

My tweed-patch-pocket-project-that-isn't came to a conclusion today as I collected the finished article - with slant flap pockets. [...] So the patch pocket venture will wait for another day. In particular, I think I need a new s/b boating jacket (blazer) in something well ventilated but substantial - probably not barathea. Any recc's?

Congratulations for the new jacket, Melcombe!

I've also started to think about the blazer section of my wardrobe as I'd like to replace RTW pieces with bespoke ones at some point. I've always chosen a dry/hard finish for my blazers; in my very personal opinion, this is what the original and most genuine character of the blazer (or boating jacket) calls for. A hard-wearing, workhorse cloth; "very crease-resistant and strong stuff", as Hectorm put it; something to wear two days in a row if really necessary, and 15 days a month.

Serge for year round and hopsack for warm weather are my first choices. I was hoping in a re-edition of the navy Mistral--with very little or no lining, that's a cloth I could personally wear for summer in London, where days above 29C are very rare. Vitale Barberis Canonico has a very light-weight (and light-colour) hopsack for blazers. I could be happy with that colour for the summer (but not with the weight). Dad has several navy serge cloths from the mill where he worked from 1970's to 2000's - he doesn't know yet, but hopefully one of those will become my new heavier blazer. I'm paying a visit for New Year...

I followed with interest the inclusion of a blazer fabric in the next CC subscription. I must confess not being too sure about a soft fabric or milled finish for a blazer. Looking forward to reading more opinions on blazer fabrics!

[Scot]

Serge for year round and hopsack for warm weather are my first choices.

Take a look at the navy hopsack in the Lesser 16oz book. Excellent stuff, and I find it does very well on chilly (but not freezing) autumn days.

[Frederic Leighton]

Serge for year round and hopsack for warm weather are my first choices.

Take a look at the navy hopsack in the Lesser 16oz book. Excellent stuff, and I find it does very well on chilly (but not freezing) autumn days.

Thank you for the pointer and 'review', Scot. Very useful!

[Frederic Leighton]

[...] I think I need a new s/b boating jacket (blazer) in something well ventilated but substantial - probably not barathea. Any recc's?

At 430/460gms, Fox's Vintage Hopsack is a valid option. I was pleased with the swatch I received yesterday, although it didn't beat the cloth I already have and that I will probably use. How's your quest going?

[...] I also collected a pair of charcoal flannels (Dugdales again) that are super-heavy (16oz +?). If anyone ever had any doubt about entering on the slippery slope of bespoke, surely a useful pair of trousers is a good place to start.

My mid-grey trousers in Minnis' 400gms flannel also feel great. Every time I wear them, I spend the time of my commutes secretly caressing my legs...

[Melcombe]

[...] I think I need a new s/b boating jacket (blazer) in something well ventilated but substantial - probably not barathea. Any recc's?

At 430/460gms, Fox's Vintage Hopsack is a valid option. I was pleased with the swatch I received yesterday, although it didn't beat the cloth I already have and that I will probably use. How's your quest going?

That Fox Worsted looks splendid and my kind of weight - thank you for mentioning it.

I think I would particularly like to use Fox on account of their being relatively local to me. My DJ is in Fox barathea it's not only lovely cloth, but the local connection does add something (excuse my irrational view!)

Ive a nasty feeling I might have to change priorities - I need a midweight charcoal grey 2 piece business suit to replace one that isnt going to make it past Easter having just looked at it in good light - Im blaming public transport and sitting on all that cheap luchtime restaurant furniture (of course...). The mohair bug has just bitten me again I think. If I get the suit for summer and the boating jacket for the autumn that sort of makes financial sense at least.

I am rather set on the boating jacket idea. In a rather major clear-out I have located my uncles old blazer which I rather wore out after I inherited it about 30 years ago. its just the patch pocket design I think Im after, hopsack, 2 button, slightly narrower lapels than Id prefer (darn them 1950s) and made by someone called Acuman of 176 Strand. Seeing it has fired my enthusiasm and even in its tatty state it might just tide me over until I get my own.

[...] I also collected a pair of charcoal flannels (Dugdales again) that are super-heavy (16oz +?). If anyone ever had any doubt about entering on the slippery slope of bespoke, surely a useful pair of trousers is a good place to start.

My mid-grey trousers in Minnis' 400gms flannel also feel great. Every time I wear them, I spend the time of my commutes secretly caressing my legs...

I did laugh to read that - I thought it was only me that did it !

[couch]

I was reminded of this thread recently when watching the restored Criterion Collection blu-ray version of It Happened One Night (looking truly glorious). Clark Gable wears, through nearly the entire film, a suit of rough cloth that appears to be a light tweed. It is as close a real-life replica of the early 1930s AA illustrations as I can remember. The silhouette is classic drape, and it has all the details that Gable seemed so fond of at the time: half-belt back, yoked back with both shirring and an inverted center box pleat, patch-and-flap bellows hip pockets and patch bellows out breast pocket. That would be far too fussy for me, but Gable has the size and charisma not to be overshadowed by all that busy-ness. Worth a look to see that suit in action (not to mention being a great film). Here are some shots from the web:






And here's another bellows-patch/flap-and-half-belt version from the same era, in what appears to be cotton or linen:

[Frederic Leighton]

[...] on asking for patch pockets x3, he gave me a serious look and politely enquired "are you sure?" which did make me rather laugh out aloud. He explained that no-one had asked him for PP's since about the 70's and even then they were regarded as being a bit old fashioned.

[...] I think I need a new s/b boating jacket (blazer) in something well ventilated but substantial - probably not barathea. [...] I am rather set on the boating jacket idea.

Any news on your project, Melcombe?

I'm coming from the tailor with two new pairs of trousers in Minnis flannel (photo below) and a new summer blazer. Usual structure -- canvas and chest-piece -- but self-lined, with access to all the 'engineering' underneath (for that sneaky recreational look every now and then). Apparently, "just the pockets took one day of work"... The cloth comes from the mills where Dad worked; probably around 1980's. 475 grams/metre; that's what Italians wear in the English Summer. That's an old RTW shirt ready for retirement. Jacket sleeves are cut for my new shirts.

[hectorm]

"just the pockets took one day of work"... ... a new summer blazer...self-lined.... 475 grams/metre[/img]

I find the PPs very unique. You really are keeping your tailor busy.
BTW, are you sure you meant self-lined?

[davidhuh]

Dear Federico,

beautiful patch pockets! Very nice execution indeed!

Cheers, David

[Frederic Leighton]

Dear Hectorm, Dear David,
Thank you for the comments As my usual, the design for the pockets comes from a 1920's blazer.

...self-lined.... 475 grams/metre

[...] BTW, are you sure you meant self-lined?

Hectorm, please correct me if I am using the wrong word. I always thought that self-lining means using the same fabric of the jacket for the lining, as sometimes is the case with linen jackets. In the case of my blazer, this is also a half/quarter-lining: the only lining goes over the facings (covering all the full canvas), armpit area and shoulders. As always, sleeves are lined in linen shirting. Pockets are also unlined. The wool cloth, even in a double-layer and although not a summer-weight, provides more ventilation than all other usual linings.

Today was 22C outdoors and 45C on the Jubilee Line, rush hour The smartest man on my carriage was wearing a bespoke suit, carrying the jacket on his arm and showing his lovely fishtail-back trousers and braces. A slightly odd sight. My blazer passed the first test with flying colours.

[Screaminmarlon]

Nice cloth and an interesting design for the hip pockets Federico!
Please post a full pic of the blazer, yours seems a great take on a classic.
Is the breast pocket welt or patch?
Saluti
M.

[Frederic Leighton]

Nice cloth and an interesting design for the hip pockets Federico!
Please post a full pic of the blazer, yours seems a great take on a classic. Is the breast pocket welt or patch?

Thank you, Screaminmarlon! I think the way I came to commission my first bespoke blazer might be a bit different from what I usually find recommended online. My first bespoke orders have all been tweed suits. After that, two 'travelling' suits in Mistral cloth. Finally this blazer. Instead of starting from 'key' items of wardrobe -- I believe the navy blazer is absolute number 1 on that list -- I decided to start from the most 'forgiving' ones in terms of fit, knowing that it would take few commissions for me to learn about the process and for my tailor to fully decipher my difficult body shape (all bones and asymmetries). Tweed and heavy-load worsteds seemed to me the right place to start and I'm glad I did so, because now everything is ready for those garments requiring a higher degree of refinement.

Please, let me think for a bit about your kind invitation to post more photos... Last time I did so on the LL, a friend told me those photos had travelled all the way to StyleForum, where the iGent felt the urge to discuss for one week about what I do in my private life, and what I'd better do

[Screaminmarlon]

That's a rude thing to endure: maybe you can ask the site admin to remove the pictures, being the owner.
However your choice of a flap patch with dimple offsets the ubiquitous choice of a blazer very well.
I must confess that a blue coat (3b SB) was my first commission