Apparel Arts and Esquire Images

[raykalendek]

The referred to "break at the chest" I, too, took to mean drape at the chest. The illustration shows that extra material that we think of as drape; however, the reference to the "break at the waist line" of the vest is quite new to me.

[bond_and_beyond]

however, the reference to the "break at the waist line" of the vest is quite new to me.

I think this corresponds to a "phenomenon" I have been longing for in my vests, but have been unable to articulate to my tailor. I have observed it in many period photos and various films, a good example is Jimmy's vest in the below photo (from VoxSatoria's Tumblr feed):



Has any of the other LL'ers any experience with this "phenomenon"?

BB

[gegarrenton]

however, the reference to the "break at the waist line" of the vest is quite new to me.

I think this corresponds to a "phenomenon" I have been longing for in my vests, but have been unable to articulate to my tailor. I have observed it in many period photos and various films, a good example is Jimmy's vest in the below photo (from VoxSatoria's Tumblr feed):



Has any of the other LL'ers any experience with this "phenomenon"?

BB

Mine look like that if I haven't been mindful of going to the gym!

[raykalendek]

Thank you for the explanation, Mr Bond. Jimmy's rig in the photo is quite striking. I must think: thin, thin, thin!

[hectorm]

the reference to the "break at the waist line" of the vest is quite new to me.

For the best effect (as Esquire would say), when standing up, the bottom of a well cut vest should be in full contact with the trousers no matter its owner´s contours. I believe the break at the waist is less the result of the original cut, and more the consequence of wearing such a garment while sitting down and adjusting the well placed belt/cinch that most of even the best fitted bespoke vests have.

[raykalendek]

hectorm, I, like many here, benefit greatly from the knowledge of our more learned members: thank you.

[johnlmosby]

Great stuff. Thanks for sharing, Minh.

[lordsuperb]

[Minh]

Thank you gentlemen for the kind welcome back. Today we have Esquire November 1935. To show the texture of the cloth and to make the text easier to read, I've included larger format images. You can also use "ctrl +" or ctrl -" to enlarge or reduce the screen to have them fit your browser.

In 1935 casual Friday meant wearing a dinner jacket instead of a tailcoat at the club. I would advise skipping the red waistcoat and handkerchief, however:





Two-button peak-lapel chalk stripe suit with open quarters from London; a tweed herringbone with a windowpane check; a formal waistcoat without lapels for the future Duke of Windsor:





For the recent blizzard, a fur-lined tweed overcoat. The tapered sleeves and suppressed waist give a trim appearance:





A three-piece tweed suit with peak lapels:





It's time to watch the game in an ulster overcoat:





Russian calf riding boots:





Clothes for the hunt, including an olive tweed overcoat with burgundy windowpane check:





A midnight blue tailcoat with grosgrain silk lapels. A silk-lined formal overcoat (in a surprisingly less formal raglan sleeve):

[davidhuh]

Dear Minh,

thank you again - great inspirations! I'm especially fond of the two overcoats.

Cheers, David

[hectorm]

The reference to "the new English slotted collar that keeps the knot and collar always in position" made me smile. It was a novelty in the RTW of the 30s that we take for granted nowadays.
I´ve seen some vintage shirts, and the slot used to be an added -and quite substantial- separate piece on the underside of the collar, and not really a slot in the backing cloth.

[couch]

Yes, thanks very much, Minh. The higher-resolution illustrations are worth their weight in vicuña . . . .

- Couch

[Minh]

Gentlemen, I present to you Esquire March 1935, followed by the April '35 issue. I've taken the time to improve the quality of the images, so we'll have brighter pictures and crisper text.

A 3-roll-2 glen plaid tweed jacket with 8 inch side vents, popular with the undergraduates at Oxford and Cambridge. The Prince of Wales (the future Duke of Windsor) shows his influence with the grey flannel trousers paired with brown suede bluchers.





A long roll lapel, 6x1 double-breasted chalk stripe suit in a dark grey flannel.





Of all the illustrators for Esquire, including Hurd and Goodman, I'd have to say that Fellows is the best. The fabric textures are clearest and the patterns most skillfully rendered. A blue grey sharkskin suit with overplaid in a single-breasted peak lapel model. The image obviously reflects its pre-Civil Rights time period.





Clothes for a late winter cruise. In the evening, a double-breasted midnight blue dinner jacket, and in the day, a raglan sleeve tweed topcoat influenced by the Prince of Wales.





For cold winter days, like this week, a double-breasted Harris tweed overcoat with a fleece lining. The suit underneath is a grey glen plaid.





Speaking of clothes for the winter, here's a heavyweight tweed raglan topcoat in an oversized glen plaid. The suit is a lovat green herringbone cheviot.





Clothes for the more portly man. The gentleman on the left is wearing a fly front covert cloth topcoat with a grey twill cheviot tweed suit. On the right is a brown herringbone tweed jacket with grey flannel trousers.





Clothes for the sportsman, including a linen riding jacket:





A light oyster colored raglan raincoat, worn over riding clothes. The canvas button puttees are reminiscent of uniforms from World War I.





Shepherd check tweed trousers for the sportsman.





To begin the April 1935 issue, we have a color photo-spread of country wear. Suede shoes and brown Harris tweed jacket.





Returning to the city, we have a double-breasted black jacket to be worn with shepherd check trousers for semi-formal occasions.





I've always loved these charming photographed cut-outs, using real cloth. A groomsman may wear on his wedding day a cutaway with grey cheviot trousers, double-breasted linen waistcoat, and shepherd's check tie.





Here's the sophisticated and rare paddock coat that Michael once described in a previous post, double breasted with a waist seam.





A three button cheviot tweed sportscoat with grey flannel trousers:





The Scottish tweed raglan sleeve topcoat with an unusual detail: peak lapels.





A double breasted 6x1, long roll lapel suit in a Saxony plaid. The cashmere turtleneck was worn underneath a tweed jacket, proving the look did not originate in the 60s, but started well before Lord Snowdon.





The covert coat with no-break grey flannels and suede monkstraps. The two eyelet derby is another popular model in suede.





On the golf course, a cable-knit sweater, favored by the Prince of Wales. The shoes are suede monkstraps:





Glen plaid jodhpurs and a tan linen riding jacket:





This issue celebrated the style of the sportsman. On the left, a deep lovat tweed 3-roll-2 sportscoat and knit tie; on the right, a checked tweed jacket with cashmere scarf.





A Harris tweed suit, glen check shirt, cable knit burgundy colored vest, and Shetland wool socks for hiking.

[ismailalmurtadza]

Thank you for the aspiring illustration,as always

murtadza

[davidhuh]

Dear Minh,

impressive posting, again! Many thanks, you just made my day

Cheers, David