Dinner suit in midnight blue

[bond_and_beyond]

Though I'd share some photos of the DJ in action this NYE:





BB

[hectorm]

Dear b_and_b,
congratulations on your finished project and thank you for the photographs.
The peak lapels are impressive indeed, although seeing their tips extending like spurs a good half an inch from from the top of your shoulders is something I´m not used to. Did you follow any special inspiration for this feature?

[bond_and_beyond]

Dear b_and_b,
congratulations on your finished project and thank you for the photographs.
The peak lapels are impressive indeed, although seeing their tips extending like spurs a good half an inch from from the top of your shoulders is something I´m not used to. Did you follow any special inspiration for this feature?

Many thanks Hectorm. The peaks do not really extent above the shoulder line, that is a bit of an illusion due to the angle of the photo (taken by a rather short person). The peaks end slightly under the shoulder line (the distance between the shoulder seam and the top of the peak is 2.5 inches).

They are probably slightly higher than I had originally intended, the inspiration was among other things the Steed DJ made for Voxsartoria (see earlier posts in this thread), which however is not so "peaked". The main instruction to the cutter was however a peak lapel with lots of belly.

Hopefully the photo below illustrates that the peaks do not go beyond the shoulder line:



BB

[Noble Savage]

The suit looks very nice, even with the high peak lapels. You may have, or could have put in, a tab on your shirt that you can attach to the inside button of your trousers, then you will have the shirt pulled down and avoid the puckering effect.

[bond_and_beyond]

The suit looks very nice, even with the high peak lapels. You may have, or could have put in, a tab on your shirt that you can attach to the inside button of your trousers, then you will have the shirt pulled down and avoid the puckering effect.

Thanks. How does that work in practice? Is it a button place at the bottom of the bib and a corresponding elastic band in the trousers?

BB

[Frederic Leighton]

Very nice, BB! Congratulations and thank you for sharing. Are you happy with the results? comfortable?

You may have, or could have put in, a tab on your shirt that you can attach to the inside button of your trousers, then you will have the shirt pulled down and avoid the puckering effect.

How does that work in practice? Is it a button place at the bottom of the bib and a corresponding elastic band in the trousers?

It's a bit the other way round. A tab about one or two inches long is attached to the front of the shirt, on the same panel that carries the buttons. The tab protrudes through a long-shaped horizontal 'buttonhole' placed on the other front panel of the shirt, where all buttonholes are. In other words this tab is just like a button, passing through a horizontal buttonhole. The tab itself has several vertical openings in shape of buttonholes, to receive (at the desired height) the top button of the trousers. Smart, neat and extremely useful. There is a simpler, less neat version where the tab is attached directly to the front panel of the shirt, the one that carries the buttonholes instead of the one with the buttons. Elastics sewn on the waistcoat lining are used to attach the waistcoat to the braces buttons.

[bond_and_beyond]

Very nice, BB! Congratulations and thank you for sharing. Are you happy with the results? comfortable?

You may have, or could have put in, a tab on your shirt that you can attach to the inside button of your trousers, then you will have the shirt pulled down and avoid the puckering effect.

How does that work in practice? Is it a button place at the bottom of the bib and a corresponding elastic band in the trousers?

It's a bit the other way round. A tab about one or two inches long is attached to the front of the shirt, on the same panel that carries the buttons. The tab protrudes through a long-shaped horizontal 'buttonhole' placed on the other front panel of the shirt, where all buttonholes are. In other words this tab is just like a button, passing through a horizontal buttonhole. The tab itself has several vertical openings in shape of buttonholes, to receive (at the desired height) the top button of the trousers. Smart, neat and extremely useful. There is a simpler, less neat version where the tab is attached directly to the front panel of the shirt, the one that carries the buttonholes instead of the one with the buttons. Elastics sewn on the waistcoat lining are used to attach the waistcoat to the braces buttons.

Many thanks Federico! Is this something that a shirtmaker would be easily familiar with? I was thinking of having Turnbull and Asser add this feature to my shirt if possible.

BB

[Noble Savage]

[hectorm]

The peaks do not really extent above the shoulder line, that is a bit of an illusion due to the angle of the photo

Good! That´s the way it should be. I´m glad it was just a photo illusion and not something that would have detracted from the elegance of your jacket.

A tab about one or two inches long is attached to the front of the shirt, on the same panel that carries the buttons. .....smart, neat and extremely usuful....

On this subject: I´m happy to know Federico finds these tabs useful. As for me, I have formal shirts cut by 3 good shirtmakers (including Bud) that have that feature with small variations. I have to confess that none of them eliminates the bulging ("puckering") while I´m seated and when standing up it´s more a matter of posture than the tab pulling down. It seems to work better with stiff front shirts and not to make a difference with soft plain shirts.
On the other hand, the tabs from the waistcoat work miracles keeping it in place.

[bond_and_beyond]

Federico, NS and Hectorm: Thank you all!

I just had another look at my shirt and indeed, right below the bib, there is a horizontal button hole, just like in the photo. If I could just find a tab like that I am sure I could sow in a shirt button in the trouser waistband myself.

NS kindly sent me a link to the black tie guide site where such a tab is described and where a further link to an unavailable product on Amazon is provided.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

BB

[bond_and_beyond]

The peaks do not really extent above the shoulder line, that is a bit of an illusion due to the angle of the photo

Good! That´s the way it should be. I´m glad it was just a photo illusion and not something that would have detracted from the elegance of your jacket.

Hectorm, the below photo shows fairly accurately where the peaks end:



BB