New Suede Shoes

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

smoothjazzone
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Mon Nov 07, 2005 3:42 am

I have a medium-brown suede oxford captoe in the Vass U-last. Besides being a trifle wide as I have very narrow feet, its a very good looking and comfortable shoe. Construction quality is indeed quite amazing. If you are a D/E width, they should fit you perfectly.

On a side note, Vass has a very English looking round toe last (P2 ?) thats very nice too. I have not ordered a shoe in that because Gabor advised me that its even wider than the U-last.
jcusey
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Mon Nov 07, 2005 4:45 am

smoothjazzone wrote: On a side note, Vass has a very English looking round toe last (P2 ?) thats very nice too. I have not ordered a shoe in that because Gabor advised me that its even wider than the U-last.
Yes, the P2 is wider than the U. I like the look of the P2 very much, and it is indeed reminiscent of a round-toe English Last. However, it has a distinctive banana shape and very high walls at the toe; and it ends up looking very Hungarian. Vass has developed a round-toe last for the RTW shoes that they make for Roberto Ugolini for sale in Japan (just as the U last was originally developed for this purpose), and this last looks more English than P2, at least in pictures that I've seen. I don't know Vass's name for it; I've always called it the Japanese last.
iammatt
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Mon Nov 07, 2005 5:15 am

smoothjazzone wrote:I have a medium-brown suede oxford captoe in the Vass U-last. Besides being a trifle wide as I have very narrow feet, its a very good looking and comfortable shoe. Construction quality is indeed quite amazing. If you are a D/E width, they should fit you perfectly.

On a side note, Vass has a very English looking round toe last (P2 ?) thats very nice too. I have not ordered a shoe in that because Gabor advised me that its even wider than the U-last.
I am going to give Gabor a call tomorrow to enquire.

Again, thanks to everybody for their good input and advice.
aportnoy
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Mon Nov 07, 2005 8:58 pm

Matt,

These EGs are rather stunning too. Maybe not exactly what you're after, but quite exceptional.

Image

Image

Best,

Andrew
SouthPender
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Fri Nov 11, 2005 4:21 pm

Iammatt, I believe the Edward Green Trunk Show is in San Francisco either today or tomorrow--probably the latter. If you can make it, why don't you check out the EG Newbury in suede in their mink colour, which is a dark brown. The suede is exceptionally nice--very fine and lustrous--and the elegant wholecut style of the Newbury, combined with the fine suede, makes, in my opinion, for a really beautiful suede accompaniment to a suit. There shouldn't be fitting problems. Susie Jones is capable of doing a very precise fitting, and if a standard 9.5D, for example, isn't perfect, she should be able to detect where the problem is and recommend a slight adjustment to make the fit close to perfect. This kind of modification might result in a small upcharge, but in my opinion is well worth it.
iammatt
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Fri Nov 11, 2005 7:12 pm

Southpender-

Thanks for the reminder, I am definitely going to make it down there tomorrow. I am not a big fan of wholecuts, as I find them a bit too formal for my personal style. I also like a lighter colored shoe for no particular reason other than they make me happier throughout the day. I am thinking of having something made up in an ecru suede. Does anybody have any suggestions as to what model might look good in this material.

Thanks.
smoothjazzone
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Fri Nov 11, 2005 8:06 pm

A classic norwegian like say the EG Dover in a slightly square chiseled toe last with a light brown sole
iammatt wrote:Southpender-

I am thinking of having something made up in an ecru suede. Does anybody have any suggestions as to what model might look good in this material.

Thanks.
iammatt
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Fri Nov 11, 2005 8:13 pm

smoothjazzone wrote:A classic norwegian like say the EG Dover in a slightly square chiseled toe last with a light brown sole
Thanks

Do you think that would make for a great looking shoe, or just the best available option in that material? I guess what I am getting at, is do you think that such a light suede is going too far off the reservation?
smoothjazzone
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Fri Nov 11, 2005 8:30 pm

Personally, I think if done well, it would look really good and you could wear it during the summer with cream or light tan linen or dupioni suits.
iammatt wrote:
smoothjazzone wrote:A classic norwegian like say the EG Dover in a slightly square chiseled toe last with a light brown sole
Thanks

Do you think that would make for a great looking shoe, or just the best available option in that material? I guess what I am getting at, is do you think that such a light suede is going too far off the reservation?
AlexanderKabbaz
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Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:55 pm

I have a medium-brown suede oxford captoe in the Vass U-last. Besides being a trifle wide as I have very narrow feet, its a very good looking and comfortable shoe. Construction quality is indeed quite amazing. If you are a D/E width, they should fit you perfectly.

Speaking from personal experience, I shouldn't go so far as to extend the viability of the U-last to the E width unless you are willing to go a size larger than usual.
rjman
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Mon Nov 14, 2005 11:46 pm

bengal-stripe wrote:
iammatt wrote:There is also a Scottish mail order company (which I cannot find any more) who offers a few shoes made from stag suede (shoes made by C&J).
Rolf:
That would be Jeremy Law: http://www.moccasin.co.uk/
I've heard very good things about him. If only they were Handgrade...
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