The cost, margin and value of (British) bespoke

[couch]

While not disagreeing with you, hectorm, it adds some perspective to recall that it was a notoriously common practice among those who felt the need to have a good "presence," from the time of young Boswell's first London journal to beyond the First World War, to remain in constant debt to their tailors. This up through the highest levels of social rank. Men of integrity deplored this, but the practice was widespread enough to make for parlous finances among tailors.

So while a gentleman's understanding remains ideal, in a seller's market the tables today are turned. So one can still respect and admire a tailor's (or firm's) artistry and artisanship, while being perfectly within one's rights to consider price in the purchase decision. But I agree that negotiating on price (haggling) is the way to ensure an unhappy relationship and a poor outcome--at least for English and American tailors; I don't know the custom in Italy or elswhere, but I suspect it holds most places for tailors of skill and healthy self-respect. If the tailor is too rich for your blood, best to find a less expensive tailor and accept any necessary compromises.

[Luca]

Notwithsanding my scepticism of some of the published costs (also given how much these items have risen in price in recent years...), I can only agree that if one is after pure monetary value maybe they should not consider tailor-made clothes and I cannot imagine how awful and cringe-worthy it would be to try to haggle over the price of a suit.

[VRaivio]

I asked my tailor acquaintance about a good source for trimmings, he recommended this one:

http://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/

...and with a few clicks we can see the non-wholesale prices for horn buttons, linings, canvas and such.

The post on Permanent Style was an eye-opener because I'd never stopped to think the manufacturing cost as percentage of the end price. Compared to the world's best cars, fine art or antiques, tailoring is still cheap...though these things are perhaps best left uncompared.

There is also a large thread on the infamous Filmnoirbuff forum about Permanent Style, in which several nameless and faceless members question the site and its founder's ethics, accusing him of bias and sucking up to the highest payer. I pondered back then if I should intervene but I've no way to find out who's wrong or right -- we are on the Internet, after all.

[bond_and_beyond]

I asked my tailor acquaintance about a good source for trimmings, he recommended this one:

http://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/

...and with a few clicks we can see the non-wholesale prices for horn buttons, linings, canvas and such.

The post on Permanent Style was an eye-opener because I'd never stopped to think the manufacturing cost as percentage of the end price. Compared to the world's best cars, fine art or antiques, tailoring is still cheap...though these things are perhaps best left uncompared.

There is also a large thread on the infamous Filmnoirbuff forum about Permanent Style, in which several nameless and faceless members question the site and its founder's ethics, accusing him of bias and sucking up to the highest payer. I pondered back then if I should intervene but I've no way to find out who's wrong or right -- we are on the Internet, after all.

If there is one source I'd ignore it is the Filmnoirbuff forum. The thread there on Crompton, though sometimes abit amusing, is ridiculous. It is one of the best examples of an "internet echo chamber" I suppose..

BB

[gegarrenton]

If there is one source I'd ignore it is the Filmnoirbuff forum. The thread there on Crompton, though sometimes abit amusing, is ridiculous. It is one of the best examples of an "internet echo chamber" I suppose..

BB

I disagree, I think it's about the only one with any sense or perspective, but YMMV. Crompton is pretty much ridiculous himself.

[Dr T]

Why does everyone want to know what the tailors make?
That's foolish and a waste of time.
That would drive me crazy if everyday I tried to calculate what the farmers make who grow my food.

Let them make what they make for gods sake.

Fully agree