Overcoat Project

[YoungLawyer]

Taking a bold step, I considering bespeaking my first bespoke overcoat. I visited a tailor I'd used before for a discussion today. I was quite taken by a book of Harrison's overcoating, with a dark blue subtle herringbone in 22oz.

I discussed with the tailor the second illustration in this thread (http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... wtopic=215) showing a modern coat front, but with a more fitted cut at the back. He seemed enthusiastic for this, and volunteered that he had made this cut in the past, although not recently, and he seemed familiar with the details. Looking at the early 20th century illustrations, some are shown with buttons, as on a tailcoat, at the small of the back, and some without. I think it's better left without these.

The other inspiration was this coat made for another forum member (http://www.pinterest.com/pin/419749627743364260/) This made me think that I would ask for the buttoning point to be a little lower than on the Edwardian fashion plates. I'm planning a d/b, 6 button front (top pair decorative). I'm considering not asking for turnback cuffs. I think a velvet collar in a very dark blue, rather than black, would be preferable, if I could find a good cloth. I think slightly slanted hip pockets suit this style well, without a ticket pocket.

Has anyone had a coat with this style of skirt, i.e. with a pleat, not a vent? I imagine it wears considerably warmer than a vented back?
Is 22oz about right for an overcoat for London/England, in your view? Any further suggestions for good overcoating in dark blue hb?

I'm going to go back in 2 weeks or so to bespeak this, but spent today sounding out the tailor and starting to think about the specific cloth and details.

[Melcombe]

I suspect a pleat might prove a burden - a vent will be more practical when it comes to sitting down?

22oz will be a warm coat, but why not. I dont think theres such a thing as a coat for all seasons - in a year or 2 treat yourself to a lighter spring / autumn coat as well, and you'll be very well served.

I think the DB style is very smart particularly on a more slender frame.

[YoungLawyer]

So a second coat in a year or so... dangerously tempting advice, Melcombe!

I think the cloth I liked was Harrisons 83905 (http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/col ... .html?cs=h).

[Mark Seitelman]

* * * 22oz will be a warm coat, but why not. I dont think theres such a thing as a coat for all seasons - in a year or 2 treat yourself to a lighter spring / autumn coat as well, and you'll be very well served. * * *

In my opinion 22 oz. is a light overcoat in the topcoat category. However, the winters in New York can be more brutal than London, therefore, I have a number of coats in different weights.

[vincentporsiempre]

Some designers did a modern take of the paletot in the last two years, some of them better then others. I have a friend that has ordered on and I like the idea.

[Dr T]

Does anyone wear cloaks any more. I find I'm not a big wearer of overcoats but may be tempted buy something a bit different.

[Man at C&A]

Does anyone wear cloaks any more. I find I'm not a big wearer of overcoats but may be tempted buy something a bit different.

New & Lingwood have one on display. Personally I lack the self-confidence to wear it for 'normal' and as I won't be going to a Doctor Who convention in the near future my scope for wearing one would be limited

Returning to the OP, I'm a big fan of the Dugdales book and have a polo coat in the 25oz grey herringbone. I do find this a bit too much for London and didn't wear it at all last winter other for than a trip to Finland in February where it was wonderful. I've lapsed in the horrible City Boy habit of wearing a Barbour to the office, however when funds allow I'll commission a town coat in Fox's 20oz soft grey twill.

[alden]

I find this kind of cape made in Loden or Tweed very useful and comfortable. And it does not leave you looking like a lost Magician like those normally done in black.



Cheers

[YoungLawyer]

If 22oz is considered too heavy, are there any good books of lighter weight overcoating that anyone here can suggest I look at?
Having said that, I quite liked that it was quite a 'dense' cloth, and so would presumably wear colder than, say, a flannel overcoating in a similar weight.

[Dr T]

I find this kind of cape made in Loden or Tweed very useful and comfortable. And it does not leave you looking like a lost Magician like those normally done in black.



Cheers

It looks good, i will have a discussion with my tailor next month - many thanks.

[Simon A]

For a cape, unless you are a giant, bespoke might be overkill. This atelier in Vienna makes them RTW for a reasonable price.

http://www.loden-plankl.at/english/kollektion/index.htm

[Dr T]

Simon A - thanks for the advice.

[Man at C&A]

If 22oz is considered too heavy, are there any good books of lighter weight overcoating that anyone here can suggest I look at?

22oz should be fine for a general use overcoat in London, particularly if you're going for just a single coat for town use . I have winter sports coats in 20oz and my Fox Cloth project would simply be a stylist change of gear. If your commute is on a deep tube line I'd suggest 25oz could be pushing comfort too far.

[chapman]

A wool coat is still my choice for London wear. I have a few wool coats but lately I fancy a military style coat set with brass buttons.

[Dr T]

Taking a bold step, I considering bespeaking my first bespoke overcoat. I visited a tailor I'd used before for a discussion today. I was quite taken by a book of Harrison's overcoating, with a dark blue subtle herringbone in 22oz.

I discussed with the tailor the second illustration in this thread (http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... wtopic=215) showing a modern coat front, but with a more fitted cut at the back. He seemed enthusiastic for this, and volunteered that he had made this cut in the past, although not recently, and he seemed familiar with the details. Looking at the early 20th century illustrations, some are shown with buttons, as on a tailcoat, at the small of the back, and some without. I think it's better left without these.

The other inspiration was this coat made for another forum member (http://www.pinterest.com/pin/419749627743364260/) This made me think that I would ask for the buttoning point to be a little lower than on the Edwardian fashion plates. I'm planning a d/b, 6 button front (top pair decorative). I'm considering not asking for turnback cuffs. I think a velvet collar in a very dark blue, rather than black, would be preferable, if I could find a good cloth. I think slightly slanted hip pockets suit this style well, without a ticket pocket.

Has anyone had a coat with this style of skirt, i.e. with a pleat, not a vent? I imagine it wears considerably warmer than a vented back?


Is 22oz about right for an overcoat for London/England, in your view? Any further suggestions for good overcoating in dark blue hb?

I'm going to go back in 2 weeks or so to bespeak this, but spent today sounding out the tailor and starting to think about the specific cloth and details.

I just had a look at the coat on Pinterest - very nice -like the cut and colour