Three Piece Suits Returning?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Mark Seitelman
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Tue Nov 01, 2005 2:49 pm

Is the three piece suit making a small revival at different price points?

I noticed that Brooks has a couple of them in "vintage" cloths, such as brown tweed. I also saw one or two by Canali at Bloomingdale's. Yesterday on the subway home I saw a young man wearing an inexpensive one in mid grey. When I transferred to the bus, I saw a middle aged man wearing one in navy.

I recall at about 1979 when I graduated law school that three piece suits were very popular. I recall that Brooks, J. Press, Tripler, and other traditional clothiers used to stock them in RTW regularly in the standard classics (navy, oxford grey, grey herringbone, etc.) They were popular for a few years, and then they faded from the scene. I believe that Brooks dropped three piece suits from its line years ago.

I know that three piece suits have never left the repertoire of the classically clothed. Yet, I am curious if they are returning to RTW, and can we be hopeful that this will signal a small rebirth of some elegance in menswear and everyday life?

Have our other members noticed three pieces re-appearing?
manton
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Tue Nov 01, 2005 3:06 pm

I had dinner the other night with four guys. Four out of five of us were wearing a three piece suit. Not a representative group, however.
DD MacDonald
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Tue Nov 01, 2005 4:25 pm

As we enter these bare November days with cooler temparatures and biting winds, the third piece of a three-piece suit comes into its own. Nothing more comforting than a waistcoat around the middle and the slight scratch of a woolen scarf around the neck.

The vagaries of fashion be damned, there is real comfort in a three piece suit.

DDM
maxnharry
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Tue Nov 01, 2005 4:44 pm

I don't think that the three piece suit ever lost its import in a man's wardrobe, but yes it appears that it will be returning to fashion this season. Such an event is always mixed as it will convert some permanently to the three piece, but most will only wear it as long as it is fashionable and we will undoubtedly see some ridiculous designs in the next few months.
Mark Seitelman
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Tue Nov 01, 2005 7:23 pm

Manton, not only did most of the party wear vests, but everyone had a pocket square! :D
Incroyable
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Tue Nov 01, 2005 9:35 pm

I do not know why people are perpetually stating whether the three-piece is returning to fashion or not.

If there is an inclination towards the style then I would say smply wear it. It is rather unbecoming to be fastidious about these sorts of things.
manton
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Tue Nov 01, 2005 9:59 pm

Those of us who like them do wear them, whether they are in fashion or not. Still, the question of whether or not they may be coming back is of interest to some of us irrespective of our personal habits. For instance, I would view it as a positive sign that men's clothes are moving back in the direction of formality and that the suit may well have been given a new (however brief) lease on life.
maxnharry
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Tue Nov 01, 2005 10:29 pm

I too think it is an important sign that we might be returning to more formal clothing .
Cufflink79
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Tue Nov 01, 2005 11:54 pm

I enjoy three piece suits espcially in the cooler and colder Fall and Winter months. I have to admit I have not worn a three piece suit since Sept/Oct of 1988 when I was in Third grade. I need to get one, or two or three :) . I would like to get it in a single brested peaked lapel, such as worn by Cary Grant in different movies and Al Pacino in "Scent of a Woman".

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
TVD
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Wed Nov 02, 2005 9:10 am

In the late 90s three piece was all the rage in the UK mass market suit trade. It confirmed to me that this is a look that only bespoke can carry off succesfullly: an ill fitting vest is genuinely sack-like and unflattering, the pockets require first rate craftmanship, too.

Obviously, the more fashionable the three piece becomes, the larger the number of ill-fitting examples to be seen that put one off wearing one's own perfect types of the species. As a consequence, I don't mind vests being unfashionable.
BirdofSydney
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Wed Nov 02, 2005 11:28 am

I attended the Melbourne Cup races yesterday, and spied a young man in a three piece suit. He was wearing it with sneakers. Nonetheless, the fact that one may be obtained by someone who is clearly a sartorial cretin suggests a certain degree of penetration of the retail market.

I myself wore a summer weight two-piece with pocket square. It was very hot (the weather, though it was a nice look too, to be sure). I shall relinquish pictures of my sunburnt, yet well-clad countenance upon request.

Best,

Eden
RWS
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Wed Nov 02, 2005 2:42 pm

We'd be happy to see those photographs, Eden. Please do post them (with captions, too).
Collarmelton
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Wed Nov 02, 2005 4:36 pm

The photographs of you, that is, Eden, not the sneaker-clad buffoon.

I personally love three piece suits, and order them as a matter of course. But to add to TVD's point about the trickiness of fitting vests correctly, I also note that many of the RTW three piece suits on offer have trousers that are too low (and have belt loops), which thus ordains the suits' off-balance look.
TVD
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Wed Nov 02, 2005 4:50 pm

Yes, how good to be reminded, a proper RTW three piece is required to have low cut trousers with belt loops (worn either entirely without belt or an extremely chunky one). This allows a full display of nylon shirt hardly covering the beer gut.

Alternatively, the vest is far too wide hanging loosely on a skinny frame like some sort of tunic.

Having said that, there is a photograph of the Duke of Windsor on the Forum somewhere (I think in a DB topcoat) with another man standing next to him sporting an extremely round and pear shaped belly covered in an extremely well creased three piece suit. The contrast could not be any more prominent.
Ray
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Wed Nov 09, 2005 4:18 pm

Another consideration when considering a two piece or three is of course the pocket watch. I personally like that look. but I would prefer a wrist watch to having the fob watch on the lapel.
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