Bespoke Odd Trousers

[BenedictSpinola]

The other sort uses straight, rectangular tabs that fit into a sort of gap in the waistband on either side of the waist. Not a great explanation, I know, although I hope that anyone who has seen these will recognize what I am describing.

The "Daks" waistband?

[Trilby]

No, not a Daks waistband (which is yet another type of side adjuster). This is a strap and buckle, but it's built into the waistband rather than simply sewn on top of the waistband. I will try to find a photograph.

[MildlyConsumptiv]

1. on the waistband
2. half on the waistband and half below
3. below the waistband

Of these three, which is preferable for a slim person who prefers their trousers higher on the waist?

[zjpj]

Here is the buckle below the waistband. I can take a picture of one of my trousers with the buckle "half and half," but I'm sure you can imagine what it looks like.

[MildlyConsumptiv]

Nice trouser fastener (that sounds vaguely dirty). Is there a functional difference between having it on the waistband or below? I notice that yours pulls backwards, I have seen some that pull forward. Is one more ergonomic than the other? Is one more correct than the other?

[zjpj]

Nice trouser fastener (that sounds vaguely dirty). Is there a functional difference between having it on the waistband or below? I notice that yours pulls backwards, I have seen some that pull forward. Is one more ergonomic than the other? Is one more correct than the other?

We share the same questions! Hopefully someone can answer.

[TVD]

I find it remarkable that none of the artisans chimes in. Anyway, I think there three factors to consider:

a) ease of production (a machine stitched one on the waistband is cheapest to produce)
b) cut of pockets (the illustrated below waistband example would not fit some pocket styles)
c) rise: the adsjuster should be placed where your body is narrowest so that it can grip. If you specify a very high rise (e.g. fish tail for a DB waistcoat) then its natural position will fall below the waistband.

If this purely theoretical analysis is wrong, I hope one of the tailors present will correct me.

On a separate matter, I once looked into a Kiton branch to have a look at their stuff. There was no way they could show me anything in my size (customers of Neapolitan tailoring outside Naples appear to have a propensity for calorific indulgence - maybe a correlation with age and wealth) so their tailor came to discuss MTM. They would not do side adjusters, but offered a single one at the back of the trousers. Apparently their trousers fit so perfectly, adjusters are not required (which made me wonder whether their clients ever ate, which was clearly contradicted by their RTW sizing). Maybe somebody has a picture of said single adjuster style.

[andrei67]

No, not a Daks waistband (which is yet another type of side adjuster). This is a strap and buckle, but it's built into the waistband rather than simply sewn on top of the waistband. I will try to find a photograph.

I believe you meant this:
[img]http://img173.imageshack.us/my.php?image=i1bl4uc.jpg][img]http://img173.imageshack.us/img173/9489/i1bl4uc.th.jpg[/img][/URL][/img]

Sorry for the quality - that's the first time I'm pasting any images on the forum...

[Trilby]

That's exactly it, andrei. Thanks very much for posting the photograph. I had been looking through books for a photograph to cite -- I have not yet reached the stage of technological advancement to post a photograph of my own trousers with this style of waistband.