Dinner suit in midnight blue

[bond_and_beyond]

Dear BB,

the "experiment" in my eyes are the side vents. I'm afraid you are comparing apples with pears. All my suits have side vents, but of course. And my dinner jacket hasn't...

You will be wearing your DJ a couple of times a year for a couple of hours. My advice was to make sure the coat is not cut too tight to your body. This will give you the required room and freedom for move.

Cheers, David

David,

My point was more that I have never had a ventless jacket made before, but plenty of double vented jackets. Thus for me the experiment as such is having made a jacket with a vent type (ie ventless) that I have never tried before and am therefore unsure what will look and feel like.

In addition to freedom of movement, which I understand may not be much of an issue on a well cut ventless jacket, there is also the issue of the 'tubular' look of ventless jackets. Those I have seen often form tubular back when jacket is buttoned and a shapeless mess when unbuttoned (as seen from behind). Double vents look good whether the coat is buttoned or not.

Perhaps some LL'ers has some good photos of the ventless back of a DJ that may sway me?

BB

[Frederic Leighton]

All my bespoke coats are ventless, so I would have no hesitation in following the good tradition of ventless dinner jackets. But if you still want your double vents, you can keep copy of this 1951 photo in your chest pocket to use in case of ferocious criticism in the middle of cocktail parties.

[Boisey]

Many thanks Matt. Is my understanding correct that the width of the breast pocket and its distance from the arm hole (horizontally) is more or less given / standard so that there isn't much leeway for the tailor to 'move it around' to cater for a wider lapel?

BB

BB,

You are correct, there isn't too much scope with the position of the pocket, we try our best to keep it balanced in accordance to the chest measurement. The reference Dad always taught me in terms of the distance between the breast pocket and the arm hole, was a "Packet of ten". This refers to the width of the old cigarette packs. Though that is just a reference point so you can't go too wrong. You just need to assess the look of all the style details once the pattern is completed and as long as everything looks balanced and in proportion you are good to go.

Saying all that though, when it comes to something like a wider lapel, we still may of slightly changed the position of the breast pocket but when I say that, we are talking in eighths of an inch. Sounds pedantic I know...curse of the job..

Matt

Beautiful job on the 30s style Dinner Suit. Looks great.

http://www.steed.co.uk/en/blog/from-sta ... nner-suit/

Cheers

Thank you Michael, we are very much looking forward to seeing Bill wearing it in person on the upcoming trip in October.

Matt

[bond_and_beyond]

Many thanks Matt. Much appreciated!

I am due to have my first fitting tomorrow, double vents as of yet. I will see if I change my mind at the fitting. I assume the vents can simply be closed at that stage for the jacket to be ventless?

Also, in respect of facings, I have been looking at various barathea options. I came over one labeled "Ottoman" which had much more pronounced "lines" than the standard offering. My tailor told me this was a bit more old school. Any here gone for such a facing?

BB

[hectorm]

Also, in respect of facings, I have been looking at various barathea options.

Are you planning on using barathea also for the facings?
I´m not familiar with the "Ottoman" you mention, but IMO -corded or not- the facings should be silkier. I used black grosgrain for the facings of my SB midnight blue DJ and it´s significantly ribbed. Definitely "old school". I think it makes a very nice contrast to the barathea.

[aston]

BandB

I think we are both at GB on this. I had the Ottoman at Russell's suggestion. It looks fantastic. Be brave!!

[bond_and_beyond]

Also, in respect of facings, I have been looking at various barathea options.

Are you planning on using barathea also for the facings?
I´m not familiar with the "Ottoman" you mention, but IMO -corded or not- the facings should be silkier. I used black grosgrain for the facings of my SB midnight blue DJ and it´s significantly ribbed. Definitely "old school". I think it makes a very nice contrast to the barathea.

Sorry, I meant silk barathea or grosgrain (which is the same I think). It was the ribbing I was thinking of, either going for a something lightly ribbed or something like the mentioned "Ottoman" which is significantly ribbed (much more than I have seen on RTW for example).

BB

[hectorm]

... either going for a something lightly ribbed or something like the mentioned "Ottoman" which is significantly ribbed (much more than I have seen on RTW for example).

Given some of the parameters that your DJ will have: wide lapels, vest, and rather light cloth at 10 oz, I woud go for the "normal" ribbed facings. Extra corded facings could be too much of a contrast fighting for attention.
But of course, all this would have to "speak" to you.

[bond_and_beyond]

Thanks Hectorm.

Aston, I "chickened" out in the end going for the "regular type". Felt there was so much "going on" with the suit already.

Another detail occurred to me recently. I ordered a marcella front dinner shirt from Turnbull with three studs. I didn't specify the placement of the studs (i.e. spacing) and now I am concerned they will be placed the same as the three top buttons (after the collar button) are on my regular Turnbull dress shirts, which means that the top stud will be very high and close to the bow tie.

What look do you prefer? Having more space between the studs, or three on a "normal" row. Or even going for just one like Mr Astaire in this photo:



BB

[Noble Savage]

The ottoman silk seems appropriate given the bolder lapel.

[hectorm]

What look do you prefer? Having more space between the studs, or three on a "normal" row.

Dear BB,
IMO the number of studs on a formal black tie shirt should depend on your height (more accurately on your torso´s length). 3 could look a bit too crowded on a short person; 2 might not be enough for holding the marcella on a very tall man (although with an evening waistcoat this should be less of a problem).
I would leave the single stud option for Mr. Astaire, who always looks great no matter what he wears.

[davidhuh]

Dear BB,

listen to your tailor - and please, reflect again on your double vents. If your are worried about freedom of movement, make sure that the coat is not too tight to the body.

Cheers, David

Dear BB,

I have just been wearing black tie last Friday for a music festival opening - and realised that I have been preaching water while drinking wine My DB dinner coat with shawl collar comes with two side vents

I now also remember that Mr Mahon actually suggested this for comfort

Cheers, David

[Concordia]

When cut well, even DB jackets don't really need vents. One in particular I've been using to play concerts-- while seated. No problem.

Nevertheless, I did recently have a tailor "accidentally" forget my preference and put double-vents on a SB dinner jacket. He may just have forgotten to read the instructions he wrote out, but when I brought it to his attention, he did make a strong case for why he would recommend them. Incorrect, but vigorously argued.

[bond_and_beyond]

Just thought I'd share some photos of near final fitting of the DS. We went straight from basted to this fitting, but it has not been pressed at all, buttons need to go on and minor tweeks (sleeve length etc) will be made before a new fitting next week.

The lapel peaks don't really go above the shoulders, it's just the low angle of the photos.





Love the colour and the cloth!

BB

[Frederic Leighton]

WOW, BB! Fantastic! Congratulations and enjoy it for a long, long time.
Was it a smooth journey to get there? How close did you go to what you had in mind at the beginning and did you have to adjust any previous decision along the way? Congratulations again.

Regards,
f