Just how honest are London tailors

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

uppercase
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Wed May 28, 2014 6:12 pm

Do not despair.
Look to Italy for salvation.
Always has been, and will be, tailoring's saving grace.
Book your flights now.
hectorm
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Wed May 28, 2014 8:41 pm

uppercase wrote:Do not despair.
Look to Italy for salvation.
So, UC, if Italy is our salvation, is Savile Row our perdition?
Scot
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Thu May 29, 2014 8:48 am

uppercase wrote:Do not despair.
Look to Italy for salvation.
Always has been, and will be, tailoring's saving grace.
Book your flights now.
Your opinion.
Here's mine.
You are wrong.
Probably.
Melcombe
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Thu May 29, 2014 9:48 am

uppercase wrote:Do not despair.
Look to Italy for salvation.
Always has been, and will be, tailoring's saving grace.
Book your flights now.
That hollow clunking sound is a penny dropping...

I see that I can fly to Milan from my local airport in the same time and more cheaply than a return train ticket to London from my local station - about £70 / $100).

Okay, that's ignoring airport hanging about and the fact I can't do a day-trip by that means, but hey - an overnighter in Milan isn't such a bad thing.

So when I get to Milano, with my very limited command of Italian, how do I take it from there? I like the classic columnar Milanese style and would tend to a smaller tailoring business under the control of one accomplished maestro rather than a larger more 'commercial' concern. How should I go about finding one?

How do prices compare, BTW?

I was also going to ask what might be the best approach to building such an overseas relationship, but really Milan is only about as far from here as Atlanta is from NY - and since the EU is slowly (too slowly) dissolving international boundaries, it might even be regarded as 'domestic'. (Although, don't tell UKIP about my plans will you... !)

All very timely. This idea comes at a point when I think my tailor really means it when he says he's retiring 'soon' : this might just be the solution.

Regards

David
davidhuh
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Thu May 29, 2014 3:02 pm

Melcombe wrote: All very timely. This idea comes at a point when I think my tailor really means it when he says he's retiring 'soon' : this might just be the solution.
Dear David,

it may indeed be solution - however, nothing beats a tailor who works in the town where you live or work. There is constantly something to fix - buttons getting loose, a lining that needs repair, I need a little more room in some trousers, or a steam & press service on a suit. Believe me, there are honest tailors in London. Be a good customer to one of them and cherish this relationship - this would be my way to go.

Also, your "retiring" tailor might just explore the possibility to secure some customers in the future...

Cheers, David
Dr T
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Fri May 30, 2014 5:42 am

I will always stick with English Tailors - the good ones are the best in the world - the big problem is finding the right one. Perhaps a list of recommendations would help everyone.
davidhuh
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Fri May 30, 2014 8:43 am

Dr T wrote:I will always stick with English Tailors - the good ones are the best in the world - the big problem is finding the right one. Perhaps a list of recommendations would help everyone.
http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... f=4&t=6852

Finding the right one is not so difficult. I interviewed several tailors, took a decision and placed an order. I'm still happy with the same tailor.

Cheers, David
Dr T
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Thu Jun 05, 2014 2:11 pm

David,
You could share this piece of information with me - I would be very grateful
davidhuh
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Thu Jun 05, 2014 11:23 pm

Dr T wrote:David,
You could share this piece of information with me - I would be very grateful
Dear T,

Be clear about what you expect, try to figure out if the tailor is listening to you, interested in having your business and if the way he works suits you. Look at personal chemistry. If you prefer testing the waters, start with a standard cloth sports coat only.
Take appointments and interview four to five at least.

It is not more complicated than dating ladies :D

Cheers, David
Dr T
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Tue Jun 17, 2014 6:00 am

davidhuh wrote:
Dr T wrote:David,
You could share this piece of information with me - I would be very grateful
Dear T,

Be clear about what you expect, try to figure out if the tailor is listening to you, interested in having your business and if the way he works suits you. Look at personal chemistry. If you prefer testing the waters, start with a standard cloth sports coat only.
Take appointments and interview four to five at least.

It is not more complicated than dating ladies :D

Cheers, David
I was fine with it until the last sentence !! I will however follow your advice. I have three tailors on the list so far. Thanks again.
Scot
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Tue Jun 17, 2014 8:28 am

I have three tailors on the list so far.
If I might ask, why? Benson & Clegg seem like an excellent firm. Do you think Ken Austin's retirement will be the end of their ability to make your clothes to your satisfaction? Starting with a new tailor means starting your pattern again from scratch. Good idea?
Dr T
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Mon Jun 23, 2014 2:28 pm

Always good to have a plan B
uppercase
Posts: 1769
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Tue Jun 24, 2014 2:12 am

I also like Hong Kong tailors.

But Italy is geographically closer for most here in LL.

English style is superb and classical though better executed now in Italy than SR.

Of course it all depends on the people: your cutter and his tailors. They can live anywhere.

But the sheer number of talented dedicated artists and supporting cast is much greater in Italy than SR. The tailoring standards are higher than in SR. Handwork and hours per suit is greater in Italy. And on…

Ofcourse proximity to your tailor is important and makes for much better results.

I'm not a proponent of traveling tailors nor traveling clients. But that's the reality for most of us.

Still, if I'm going to travel, it would be to Italy.
Dr T
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Wed Jun 25, 2014 3:15 pm

Interesting - thanks for sharing
hectorm
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Thu Jun 26, 2014 7:59 pm

uppercase wrote: The sheer number of talented dedicated artists and supporting cast is much greater in Italy than SR.
Dear UC,
Although I think you might have a point regarding the general topic of where to go for finding a better deal, I believe that the comparison above regarding number of artists is not fair. Italy is a pretty big country by European standards with more that 60 million people, while Savile Row is just a street a few blocks long. No fair comparison possible. And what to do even if that assessment were right? Any city in Italy? Where do you find that more talented averge artist? Caraceni and Rubinacci might be the obvious cases but their prices are the same if not higher than SR.
Also, I can´t agree with your statement that tailoring standards are higher in Italy than in SR. Italy´s average compared to England´s average? Probably yes. Italy´s average higher that Savile Row´s average? No way.
Regarding your opinion that English style is better executed now in Italy than SR, I think I have to disagree too :) . But I would love to hear more evidence about it.
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