The Pleats On Trousers?

[Cufflink79]

I haven't come across any information about pleats in various books or articles.

I was wondering if the forward style or reverse style came first, along with the various depths of the pleats?

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[Frederic Leighton]

The no-pleat style is probably the oldest. From the late 18th century, all through the Regency period and down to the middle of the 19th c. trousers didn't change much - flat front with a flap (see here and here). The central closure appeared around the 1840s but new and old style coexisted for a while.

Coming to more recent days, I'm not sure what came first or if one of the options for the pleats came before the other. I have or had about 10 pairs of trousers from 1900-1950 that I bought in London and none had single pleats. Some had double, some none, but I don't exclude that single pleats existed in that period. More than one pair from the 1930s-1940s (morning and dinner trousers) has 'reverse' pleats (as opposed to 'forward').

As it seemes to me, during the first decades ot the 20th c. a flat front trousers were the standard for formal wear. I still have a (3-piece) morning suit made in London in 1937 with flat front morning trousers, all pieces of exceptional quality even when compared to other morning suits of the same period. This might have changed more than once during the first half of the century and also from country to country. For some time during the first part of the century, turn-ups were also inappropriate for formal wear and as a general rule clener lines (no pleats, no turn-ups) meant a higher degree of formality.

Hope this helps.

[Cufflink79]

Thanks for the nice read and photos.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[davidhuh]

I was wondering if the forward style or reverse style came first, along with the various depths of the pleats?

Dear Cufflink,

I'm no historian compared to Frederic Leighton - but in my opinion, the forward style is common from UK tailors, while the reverse style is prevailing in Italy. I stick to the forward style, even with trousers made in bella Italia

Cheers, David

[rodes]

I'm with David on this subject, forward pleats only for me.

[couch]

This thread and this thread may be of interest (unfortunately some of the image links no longer work, but enough do).

[Cufflink79]

I enjoy forward pleats myself. Especially when they're deep.

Thanks for posting the other links as well Couch.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[Costi]

I suppose the English terminology - "reverse" - indicates the style that took precedence, at least on the island.

[lxlloyd]

I was wondering if the forward style or reverse style came first, along with the various depths of the pleats?

Dear Cufflink,

I'm no historian compared to Frederic Leighton - but in my opinion, the forward style is common from UK tailors, while the reverse style is prevailing in Italy. I stick to the forward style, even with trousers made in bella Italia

Cheers, David

This makes sense to me... I was taught that, although it was a matter of preference,it tended to be thought of as english style vs french/italian style. The same with seams (Whether they're pressed forward to create a slight roll or pressed open, flat) No historical evidence was presented for this but, given that the person had trained in England and France, I just accepted the idea and check the house style where I'm working. I tend to work with the inside of the pleat pressed toward the centrefront/back.

And Frederick Leighton is right the no pleats style is the oldest. I suppose that's why there's no real formal ruling.