Mohair.

[GSC]

Its my number one cloth although i normaly have a wool/mohair blend.

Do you have favorite sources for cloth? I'm familiar with Bateman Ogden and Dormeuil. What am I missing? What weights do you like best?

[hectorm]

Dear GSC,
Harrisons of Edinburgh also carries several lines of pure mohair and mohair blends by the fancy names of Evolution, Cape Kid or Firefly. Lots of variety, colors and patterns.

[GSC]

Thanks, hectorm. I've see the Cape Kid book, which is lovely. I've seen samples from Evolution, also quite nice, especially the heavier cloths. Firefly as I recall is more has much less mohair but a nice variety. I'm curious about the bunches from William Halstead. I have seen one briefly, but I understand they have two. Have you, or anyone, any experience with either?

[Concordia]

This may just be expensive re-bottling, but Holland & Sherry has mohair books.

[Dr T]

GSC - I like reasonably heavy cloth - for me it works perfectly, even in a hot climate.

[GSC]

Dr. T, I prefer heavier cloth too. What bunches do you prefer for heavier mohair blends?

[Leonard Logsdail]

Mohair has always been a hard "sell" in the U.S. Personally, I love it and own 2 or 3 garments ranging from a 13oz Tonik down to a 7 1/2oz. But for some reason (and I believe it might be the sheen that is found in mohairs) it is frowned upon for business purposes. When I have made a client his first mohair suit, generally they do re-order from the same fabric. It has been a go-to fabric for the movies for a long time where a sharp look is required. For example, I made several for Shia in Wall Street 2 and one for Michael Douglas, too.

Len

[hectorm]

Mohair has always been a hard "sell" in the U.S.

It may be a hard sell in the U.S. on average, but if you just cross the Hudson river you will see that mohair suits are widely favored on the other shore

[norcal_1]

an interesting quote on mohair in a FT article on the lost qualities of vintage cloth (entire article is worth a read as well)

source: http://howtospendit.ft.com/mens-fashion ... -old-cloth


"The drape of a vintage fabric holds a similar fascination for Ritchie Charlton, managing director of Mayfair tailor, Hayward. “Quality vintage mohair is a very drapey cloth and has a heaviness to the way it falls. We have a selection of 1970s and 1980s cloth from H Lesser & Sons, and over the years they have produced some of the best-quality mohairs,” says Charlton.

The vintage mohair that so captivates him is a three-ply called Lesslon. As well as making for a heavier fabric, with that all-important drape, the three-ply, rather than two-ply, thread adds body and richness of colour. But because of its weight and the lack of a cashmere-soft handle associated with luxury today, it is what Charlton calls a “connoisseur’s fabric”, another way of saying that it is not the easiest thing to sell to a less-informed client.

The reason these vintage cloths have survived to the second decade of the 21st century is because they were not sold at the time they were woven, so perhaps a kinder way of putting it is to think of such fabrics as wines that required a few more years of ageing before reaching maturity. Speaking of which, there is a mustard, cream and grey open-weave Shetland that I remember seeing on my excursion into the basement at Huntsman at the end of the 1990s. Although from the early 1970s, I fancied it to be a bit “young” back then, but now, rather like a 1982 classed growth claret, it is ready to be enjoyed."

[Dr T]

GSC i should know - but will need to ask my tailor. I am so pleased with my latest wool/mohair suit, its perfect.

[ay329]

I commissioned a trouser with the final length of air force blue 390gram 3 ply 40%mohair (selvedge states: Made in England Wool & Mohair)

A tad bit itchy on the first couple of outings. Hangs well and keeps the crease on the pleat like nothing else I own.

Is it common for mohair to be weaved like a wool barathea (sure feels like it)?

Still on the fence whether to commission a 3 piece suit in a dark grey mohair 3 ply?...but is mohair better appreciated as a trouser?

[GSC]

ay329,

I have one pair of odd trousers in lightweight mohair blend. They are wonderful for summer, very light yet crisp. I have two suits with 30% mohair blend, and they have great structure for relatively lightweight fabrics (8 oz. and 11/12 oz.). In general, my preference is for heavier fabric, but these are very nice, and they have a depth of color that I don't generally see in lighter fabrics.

I'm curious about heavier versions, maybe 3-ply, maybe 13 oz. Not sure these exist, but I'm still looking. Maybe Dr. T will have some useful suggestions.

GSC

[Dr T]

GSC thanks for the prompt.

[Dr T]

GSC - a quick call to Benson and Clegg has provided the answer - Its 100% mohair, 12 oz and the material is from the Bateman and Ogden Mill in England. Hope this helps

[Dr T]

A picture of the suit can be seen on https://www.facebook.com/DrTonyMillerCom . My next suit would be in exactly the same material -but black