Let's define bespoke and start from there

[Mulberrywood]

Alex,

Sounds like you have your fitting down to a science (although I know that there is a lot of art involved).

I have a question: If someone gains say 5 pounds or 5 years go by can you use the pattern on file with just a slight adjustment (in my mind this is the art part) or do you start almost from ground zero?

[AlexanderKabbaz]

If someone gains say 5 pounds or 5 years go by can you use the pattern on file with just a slight adjustment (in my mind this is the art part) or do you start almost from ground zero?

Forcing me to work, David?

A good shirt pattern is not constructed for style purposes. Style ingredients (pockets, collars, cuffs, pleats, epaulets, dress vs. flat vented hems ... and the like) are separate and apart from that which I term the "body pattern".

This body pattern is designed around the client's bone structure. For example, the width, slope, and curvature of the shoulders. Except in extraordinary circumstances**, these remain rather consistently proportional for the majority of a person's life from, let's say, 30 to 60 years of age give or take a grey hair or three. Skin and muscles (the 'soft parts') adorn the bone structure (as well as serving to keep the fluid from leaking out). When the pattern is draughted, a certain allowance - based upon measurements - is incorporated to accomodate those pesky soft parts.

Now, given that the bone structure will remain consistent, the only alterations which need to be made to the pattern are in reponse to increases and decreases - and shifting of - the soft parts. This proves to be relatively easy. As long as the patternmaker has kept a record of the initial measures, adding 1" to the waist is simply that. The only determination which needs be made is the degree of additional inflation of the middle tire which has occurred in the front and the degree which lies in the rear. Then, a simple addition of, for example, 1/2" to the front waist and 1/2" to the back waist and voilá - the pattern fits again.

On that basis, the simple answer is that the pattern, properly adjusted as time passes, will serve for the life of the client. To give a bit of character to this idea, the average amount of time which passes between my actually seeing a client is approximately five years. Inbetween, the majority of my transaction are by telephone, e-mail, and the like. They range from 'repeat x, y, and z of my previous selections' and 'have you any red & navy tattersalls' to 'I liked that swatch you sent' or 'I need shirts. Please make me more.'

As regards changes which should be made when I do not actually see the client at ordering time, the following from an old literature of mine explains: "Fitting New Clients is our responsibility... and solely our reponsibility. Should your measurements change or should you desire any alteration in fit at a later date, it is absolutely your responsibility ... and only your responsibility ... to so inform us! Otherwise, lack of this knowledge will obviously cause us to cut your order without alteration of your permanent pattern. Should we for any reason make changes to your pattern, we shall normally cut one shirt from your order and send it for your approval. Once you approve the change, we'll then proceed with the remainder. Should you decide later on that you want further changes, such alterations will be charged at our prevailing rates."

**Extraordinary Circumstances:
Here are a few:
1] A traumatic injury such as being thrown by a horse or an automobile accident (can obviously cause an alteration in bone structure) may necessitate at least a partially new pattern draughting
2] Intensive Yoga or other meditational discipline: I am working on a case at present where a client's shoulder slope has been reduced over a two-year period by almost 1/2"! This is an extraordinary amount. His 'rib-cage' has also lifted to a considerable degree
3] Divorce - can cause all sorts of body enhancements to be attempted - and, at times, successfully so - when the man realizes that for the first time in 25 years he is again part of the dreaded 'dating scene'.
4] Drastic weight loss, such as that after bypass surgery, which can cause such organ shrinkage that the internal bone structure support changes drastically, altering the shape of the exterior structure

[Mulberrywood]

Alex,

I loved your answer to my question, thank you.

Regarding soft parts, and tires, that is exactly what I was thinking about.

Now points 2 & 3, .... are you teasing me? Or are you serious?

Does standing on your head really slim a man? If so I may need to start a serious yoga practice...

Thanks again for all the information.

[AlexanderKabbaz]

Now points 2 & 3, .... are you teasing me? Or are you serious?

Absolutely serious ... although I have seen only one significant example of Point 2. When I say that this client is seriously into his yoga, I mean Seriously. His tailor and I are very good friends. We both were sufficiently astounded by the changes we observed to mention them to each other. We are both in the process of refitting him presently. The changes are so marked that formerly made garments cannot be altered to fit.

Point 3? Happens continuously. The three most important factors which drive business right into a bespoke shirtmaker's front door, in no particular order, are:
1] Airline luggage (mis)handlers
2] The modern laundry
3] Divorce

I realize that sounds humorous. Funnier than fiction, no?

[TVD]

I must admit that yoga is not exactly a common past time amongst my (male) friends. However, if you have ever been sufficiently acquainted with a girl who is seriously into that kind of exercise you will understand that it effects some considerable changes to the body (most of them rather beneficial).

I shall stay well clear untill I can afford to change my entire wardrobe (or point three in a few decades time will force me).

By the by, when I had to do my national service some years back, all that exercise with a steel helmet on my head caused my neck size to go up. Settled down to normal since I have returned to trilbies and top hats.

[AlexanderKabbaz]

I shall stay well clear untill I can afford to change my entire wardrobe (or point three in a few decades time will force me).

Given this reaction to my candid post, I would appreciate if you fellows would of keep this information close to your vest and not share it with my clients.

[Mulberrywood]

Agreed!