Selfridges sells Falke, which are comfortable and hard-wearing. Turnbull & Asser sell a wide range of socks. Edward Green sell good quality socks. Those tend to be my usual sources in London.Algernon wrote:On the subject of socks; would any of you recommend any especially good places for socks in London? Do members have any prefered source?
The Minimum Wardrobe reposted
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tteplitzmd
I have several pair, Italian made, can't remember the brand, but they are in a limited color range, 'natural', and yellow. They have held up better than I expected. For colorful casual socks, a place on Jerymn Street, Vincci (sic) is worth a look. Not linen though. The next time I am in Perugia we will be buying at Gallo for my wife, my son, and myself. Again no linen.
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Frederic Leighton
- Posts: 551
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2013 8:42 pm
- Location: London
- Contact:
Was this subject ever discussed further in a more recent thread? In addition to the beauty of all lists and classificatory activities, I find it to be of very high relevance.
Can this article (*) revive the conversation? [Allergen information: contains supers]
Regards,
f
(*) After a blog fast of 5 months, I decided to have a look at what I missed and browsed the three or four blogs I used to follow. This is the only thing I found worth reading. I liked that it has more of the 'personal diary' and less of the 'lecture' tone. Now 5 more months' fast
Can this article (*) revive the conversation? [Allergen information: contains supers]
Regards,
f
(*) After a blog fast of 5 months, I decided to have a look at what I missed and browsed the three or four blogs I used to follow. This is the only thing I found worth reading. I liked that it has more of the 'personal diary' and less of the 'lecture' tone. Now 5 more months' fast
In case anyone's still looking for linen socks, I like them for summer wear, even though they look awful after washing--if you don't iron them, that is. All is well after putting them back on.
Concordia wrote:In case anyone's still looking for linen socks, I like them for summer wear, even though they look awful after washing--if you don't iron them, that is. All is well after putting them back on.
Where did you get the linen socks? They're devilish hard to find.
I would love to know that, too.
Bresciani makes wonderful linen socks (a bit longer and more elegant than those by Pantherella, which are really a linen blend). In NYC you can find them at Bergdorf Goodman. Expect to pay a price.cathach wrote:Where did you get the linen socks? They're devilish hard to find.
Is this a wish list or does someone really possess such a fantastic wardrobe?
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Frederic Leighton
- Posts: 551
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2013 8:42 pm
- Location: London
- Contact:
Most of my friends who work in the square mile as traders, high-tech engineers or in the advertising sector own one grey suit that they never wear. They are in their mid-30s and their wardrobe consists of blue shirts, some sweaters, tan chinos and grey odd trousers - "the minimum wardrobe" for most Londoners of similar age and job.
We talk of a minimum 'dressier' wardrobe, to keep things simple one inspired by some interest and faith in traditional tailoring. Being the same age as my friends, my wardrobe is very far from complete and well-balanced. Some years ago I got rid of all jeans and t-shirts (I still have 2 jeans and 2 t-shirts I keep to paint walls or similar jobs...) and put together an 'emergency wardrobe' of many RTW city suits, 2 tweed suits, 1 blazer and 1 linen odd jacket (summer? in London?).
Having discovered the joys of bespoke in more recent times, with the first commissions I started filling the gaps, rather than substituting what I already had. The core of my wardrobe is still made of RTW. They are the suits I learned from; they still do the job, but hopefully, one day, they will give space to better fitting ones. It's probably a good thing that this process is taking time, as 'mistakes' are always around the corner and there is something to learn from each new project.
Below is how I imagine my ideal minimum wardrobe. It's actually much smaller than my present wardrobe, but certainly better structured and of better quality. It fits my needs, those of someone who lives in London and wears a suit everyday for pure pleasure, outside an office environment.
I wonder what your minimum wardrobe looks like.
2 tweed suits
1 tweed suit for walks in London marshes and in the countryside;
2 linen suits
1 dinner suit
1 navy blazer
4 odd trousers
1 camel overcoat
NOTES: all suits three-piece.
2 blue shirts
1 evening shirt
24 ties/bow-ties
5 pocket squares
NOTES: Of the probably 70 ties/bow-ties I own, I always wear the same 10. The other 60 are mistakes of youth
I'm sure I would be happy with 24 well selected pieces. And I'm always very happy with my white linen pocket square and my white shirt, even when wearing tweed. My Dad, in his 70s, confirms - with a white shirt you always look the way you are supposed to look. The rest is for those 3 days/month...
We talk of a minimum 'dressier' wardrobe, to keep things simple one inspired by some interest and faith in traditional tailoring. Being the same age as my friends, my wardrobe is very far from complete and well-balanced. Some years ago I got rid of all jeans and t-shirts (I still have 2 jeans and 2 t-shirts I keep to paint walls or similar jobs...) and put together an 'emergency wardrobe' of many RTW city suits, 2 tweed suits, 1 blazer and 1 linen odd jacket (summer? in London?).
Having discovered the joys of bespoke in more recent times, with the first commissions I started filling the gaps, rather than substituting what I already had. The core of my wardrobe is still made of RTW. They are the suits I learned from; they still do the job, but hopefully, one day, they will give space to better fitting ones. It's probably a good thing that this process is taking time, as 'mistakes' are always around the corner and there is something to learn from each new project.
Below is how I imagine my ideal minimum wardrobe. It's actually much smaller than my present wardrobe, but certainly better structured and of better quality. It fits my needs, those of someone who lives in London and wears a suit everyday for pure pleasure, outside an office environment.
I wonder what your minimum wardrobe looks like.2 city suitsalden wrote: 5 city suits;
2 informal, weekend or country suits;
3 tweed coats;
1 Navy DB Blazer;
1 Dinner jacket;
2 Summer weight unlined coats;
4 Overcoats (DB blue or gray, SB blue or gray; Tweed , Whipcord, or Covert);
2 Vests; (for wear with Tweed coats.)
10 Casual trousers;
2 tweed suits
1 tweed suit for walks in London marshes and in the countryside;
2 linen suits
1 dinner suit
1 navy blazer
4 odd trousers
1 camel overcoat
NOTES: all suits three-piece.
12 white shirtsalden wrote: 85 neckties;
7 White dress shirts;
17 Color dress shirts;
12 Informal button down shirts (including Viyella);
36 pochettes (12 colored, 12 Irish linen, 12 au choix.);
2 blue shirts
1 evening shirt
24 ties/bow-ties
5 pocket squares
NOTES: Of the probably 70 ties/bow-ties I own, I always wear the same 10. The other 60 are mistakes of youth
I'm sure I would be happy with 24 well selected pieces. And I'm always very happy with my white linen pocket square and my white shirt, even when wearing tweed. My Dad, in his 70s, confirms - with a white shirt you always look the way you are supposed to look. The rest is for those 3 days/month...Very personal and subjective, I think. I'm not sure I would recommend to my friends to start their minimum wardrobe from importing linen socks from the US and ironing them before each use.alden wrote: 24 Boxer shorts;
8 Sweaters;
5 Pyjamas;
1 Bathrobe in wool;
1 Bathrobe in silk (optional);
1 Smoking or "Interior wear only" jacket (optional);
1 Barbour jacket;
1 Leather jacket (optional, should be Sheepskin, preferably made bespoke);
5 Hats (Trilby Brown and Gray; Fedora; Homburg in black, Panama);
4 Caps (3 tweed; 1 Linen);
3 pairs of gloves;
Assorted silk and cashmere scarves;
2 Umbrellas;
1 Cane or Walking stick.
Boxes of socks. "Fils D'Ecosse", Wool, and Linen.
Unlimited numbers of pairs of cufflinks and button covers.
2 timepieces: Leather band dress watch, and Sportswatch
Assorted braces and belts.
I rather liked the wardrobe that F. Leighton posted for its simplicity and internal consistency. It is interesting how different people conceptualise / mentally organise their “mind’s closet”.
Given the diversity of requirements and lack of uniformity in modern dress, even within a country, city or profession, I suppose everyone’s “necessary” or “minimum” wardrobe will be different (never mind the “ideal” one). Much as I lament the death of elegance that pervades our dishevelled age, that freedom is no bad thing. Even in the City of London, outside a minority of specific companies/jobs, there is a great variety of dress.
It seems inescapable, to me, that the future of ‘classic’ menswear and custom-made clothing lies in “personal interest” aficionados, like Leighton.
Personally, I could never be accused of being a minimalist
though the cost of London property and resulting limited storage space imposes some discipline. I would, however, never trade more room for less sartorially ideal milieus.
Given the diversity of requirements and lack of uniformity in modern dress, even within a country, city or profession, I suppose everyone’s “necessary” or “minimum” wardrobe will be different (never mind the “ideal” one). Much as I lament the death of elegance that pervades our dishevelled age, that freedom is no bad thing. Even in the City of London, outside a minority of specific companies/jobs, there is a great variety of dress.
It seems inescapable, to me, that the future of ‘classic’ menswear and custom-made clothing lies in “personal interest” aficionados, like Leighton.
Personally, I could never be accused of being a minimalist
though the cost of London property and resulting limited storage space imposes some discipline. I would, however, never trade more room for less sartorially ideal milieus.What an absolutely fascinating topic - one indeed which makes me want to break my silence and start posting!
My working wardrobe has changed profoundly over the 12 years of my career. Having started with a suit and tie every day as a trainee and now with a suit and tie only for external meetings and business trips. I went through an 8 year phase of being surrounded by jeans and t shaped shirts every day, and dressed down, but not that far down, accordingly.
I would not presume to suggest that my views on a minimum wardrobe are of interest (and there's a risk that my wife might try and reduce my wardrobe to the minimum level were she to read them). Like Mr Leighton I have a penchant for vintage, and for some reason find vintage smoking jackets, of which I have five, to be my most prized, if inexplicable even to me, possessions. I also find myself wondering if I shouldn't edit my vastcollection of shirts - a task I would find easier were it not for the fact that only a handful of Jermyn St makers exhibit the quality that they used to and therefore, in a rather depressing way, much of my collection is irreplaceable. Whether or not one would seek to replace it in the event of loss is another matter.
My working wardrobe has changed profoundly over the 12 years of my career. Having started with a suit and tie every day as a trainee and now with a suit and tie only for external meetings and business trips. I went through an 8 year phase of being surrounded by jeans and t shaped shirts every day, and dressed down, but not that far down, accordingly.
I would not presume to suggest that my views on a minimum wardrobe are of interest (and there's a risk that my wife might try and reduce my wardrobe to the minimum level were she to read them). Like Mr Leighton I have a penchant for vintage, and for some reason find vintage smoking jackets, of which I have five, to be my most prized, if inexplicable even to me, possessions. I also find myself wondering if I shouldn't edit my vastcollection of shirts - a task I would find easier were it not for the fact that only a handful of Jermyn St makers exhibit the quality that they used to and therefore, in a rather depressing way, much of my collection is irreplaceable. Whether or not one would seek to replace it in the event of loss is another matter.
Tim wrote:...a penchant for vintage, and for some reason find vintage smoking jackets, of which I have five, to be my most prized...
Admirable, sir! And, possibly, exceeding "minimal" requirements...
Well, for modern life in London a minimal requirement of smoking jackets would be held by most people to be nil it comfortably exceeds probably a maximum wardrobe too (as my wife does like to point out most days).
I maintain that the serenity which comes from knowing I have a smoking jacket hanging in a cupboard in my office improves even the worst day there. Not that I'd dare wear one around a colleague. Good to post, finally, after something like eight years of lurking...
I maintain that the serenity which comes from knowing I have a smoking jacket hanging in a cupboard in my office improves even the worst day there. Not that I'd dare wear one around a colleague. Good to post, finally, after something like eight years of lurking...
Serenity is, of course, priceless.
The closest I've come to a smoking jacket is a blue velvet blazer (which, of course, has been worn to work).
The closest I've come to a smoking jacket is a blue velvet blazer (which, of course, has been worn to work).
Last edited by Luca on Tue Apr 01, 2014 1:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Well, suffice it to say that when I treated my previous colleagues to an outing of a very subdued Huntsman grey herringbone tweed jacket I was asked variously whether I was a geography tutor or going shooting.
To be expected, I suppose, but I find it very hard to wear something which meets the joint requirements of camoflage and how I want to dress. For a while I bought off the peg suits just to fit in but as I get older I'm less willing to...
To be expected, I suppose, but I find it very hard to wear something which meets the joint requirements of camoflage and how I want to dress. For a while I bought off the peg suits just to fit in but as I get older I'm less willing to...
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