Fabric tips for new bespeakers

[yialabis]

Linen can be worn as a suit or an odd jacket with one condition. Linen jackets look best when paired with linen trousers. You can certainly wear linen with other materials (denim, cotton and even flannel) but the default choice is to wear a linen trouser of the same quality linen as the coat.

here is an example of how good heavy drape linen can be paired with a Shetland tweed ..

Cheers
Vassilis

[J.S. Groot]

I am currently considering having my navy blue Piuma made up as a single breasted blazer suit, which is to say that it will have dark brown horn buttons instead of the customary blue/black ones. The dark brown buttons should enable the jacket to be worn as a blazer without looking like an orphaned suit jacket while maintaining the coherence and integrity of a suit when worn as such.

I must confess being not familiar with this option. It would be great if you could elaborate a bit - is it your own idea or are you following some more or less illustrious example? (not that this would make any difference..). Thanks!

Frederic

In my head is was my own idea insofar as I had not thought about it as any sort of grand scheme, but merely a small change to an otherwise normal suit. Along the lines of having peaked lapels made on a single breasted suit - somewhat more dandyfied, but not to a conspicuous degree. Of course, such thinking did not take into account the constitution of the realm of internet sartorialism, and lo and behold, the 'Amazing Blazer Suit' ( ) by Manton over at Styleforum: http://www.styleforum.net/t/71198/the-a ... lazer-suit.

On my rendition, I would opt for slightly darker buttons and forego the patch pockets and swelled edges, which would mean, I think, that it would be better suited for nighttime wear. Since I would thusly be playing down the blazer characteristics, I have toyed with the idea of adding peaked lapels, but we'll see.

[davidhuh]

here is an example of how good heavy drape linen can be paired with a Shetland tweed ..
Cheers
Vassilis

Dear Vassilis,

thank you for posting this picture. This works very well indeed, beautiful

Cheers, David

[Frederic Leighton]

I am currently considering having my navy blue Piuma made up as a single breasted blazer suit, which is to say that it will have dark brown horn buttons instead of the customary blue/black ones. [...]

I must confess being not familiar with this option. It would be great if you could elaborate a bit[...]

In my head is was my own idea insofar as I had not thought about it as any sort of grand scheme, but merely a small change to an otherwise normal suit. [...]

Thank you for the explanation, Groot! Sounds like an exciting project. I wonder whether brown buttons on blue suit, though, would somehow complicate your life, like when trying to catch two birds with one stone (saying I learned from a Greek friend this morning). The suit could end up looking a bit less suit-like and the blazer a bit less blazer-like. You will have to think twice about what shoes to wear - blue suit, brown buttons and black shoes? The traditional blue suit already is a very versatile thing... Plus I guess there could be room for one blue suit AND one blazer, the core of menswear, in all wardrobes. Just thoughts, as I'm here to learn.

[davidhuh]

I wonder whether brown buttons on blue suit, though, would somehow complicate your life, like when trying to catch two birds with one stone (saying I learned from a Greek friend this morning). The suit could end up looking a bit less suit-like and the blazer a bit less blazer-like. You will have to think twice about what shoes to wear - blue suit, brown buttons and black shoes? The traditional blue suit already is a very versatile thing... Plus I guess there could be room for one blue suit AND one blazer, the core of menswear, in all wardrobes. Just thoughts, as I'm here to learn.

Dear Federico,

I agree with you. Contrasting buttons are rarely a good choice and they get boring over time. Buttons should "marry" with the coat. I had quite a discussion with my tailor when making up the Mistral blazer.

I didn't want the typical metal blazer buttons, because I find they are restricting the coat's use. It turns out that I was right. The dark horn buttons give me a lot of liberty dressing up or down using the appropriate garments and accessories with it. I have no other coat that is as versatile. With a buff waistcoat and dark tie: opera and concert. With light grey flannels or hopsack: sports attire for cigar smoking on a Sunday afternoon

Cheers, David

[alden]

here is an example of how good heavy drape linen can be paired with a Shetland tweed ..

Great look Vassilis! Thanks for posting this superb picture. I am longing for Spring already.

I love linen trousers. There is nothing as comfortable. I have at least a dozen pair and wear them with my shetland coats as well. In fact, I wear them as often as I can, around the house they are a staple.

But you are not a new bespeaker, you are at the elegance "expert" level.

Cheers

[yialabis]

Thank you David and Michael for your kind words ... I like mixing fabrics that go together and I take every opportunity available in wearing linen ..particularly on a bright winters day I suprise my self by bringing down my favorite cream linen DB and wearing it with grey flannels a warm lambswool v neck inside and a crispy linen shirt .. ..actually I think I might do this once this weekend ..

Cheers
Vassilis

[alden]

The suit could end up looking a bit less suit-like and the blazer a bit less blazer-like.

If one uses a very dark brown horn button (color #8) that is almost black, at night it does look black (fine for a suit) and during the day in the light it looks brown. Its about the only way I have found to "have your cake and eat it too" while you are "killing two birds with one stone."

That being said my own blazers are DBs and have inconspicuous domed metal buttons in bronze. They get a lot of closet duty.

Cheers

Michael

[J.S. Groot]

Frederic

My approach would be similar to what Michael is suggesting. That being said, yours is a very valid point, and I have thought about it, which is partly why the project has not materialized yet.

David

I would agree in principle if we were talking about a suit that was just a suit. Personally, however, I do not think that a suit jacket such as yours, its other merits notwithstanding, works when worn on its own because of the configuration and detailing. I have a wonderful suit of the RAF blue LL flannel that we made some years ago and I sometimes try using the jacket as a blazer, each time finding the result less than gratifying. Of course, it is only I who notice it. Everyone else thinks I am dressed up. Such is the load of the suited man in a suitless world.

[Scot]

my own blazers are DBs and have inconspicuous domed metal buttons in bronze.

If one may ask Michael, where do you get the buttons from?

[alden]

I get my buttons from the trimmers RJ Weldon.

http://www.richardjamesweldon.com/

[uppercase]

Very nicely cut coat, vassilis!
And put together very nicely too.
I always say to myself work with the clothes I already have in my closet. You can pleasantly surprise yourself with what you can come up with.
Serendipity has it's place in dressing in an interesting manner.

[yialabis]

Thank you uppercase , indeed there are countless surprises already waiting to be put together in our wardrobe ..sometimes I think I really don't want any more when I can enjoy myself wearing and mixing with inspiration what I already have . However at the same time I can get intrigued by a photo a vision an Ll thread and start visualizing yet another project.. . By the way as I've already mentioned in an other thread this coat does not exist anymore at least in my wardrobe as it was taken by a sadden overnight strong northern wind while it was hanging on my balcony to be refreshed . I still remember the enjoyment of wearing it though and not in sadness but with grateful smile ..
Vassilis

[uppercase]

Someone else is enjoying your coat!
I had a similar experience.
But it was not the wind.
Gone in a second by the hands of a thief.
But he doesn't know, or maybe he does by now!, that I had put a curse on that coat and all thieves who would wear it!!

[gegarrenton]

If one uses a very dark brown horn button (color #8) that is almost black, at night it does look black (fine for a suit) and during the day in the light it looks brown. Its about the only way I have found to "have your cake and eat it too" while you are "killing two birds with one stone."

I actually have those on my latest jacket from Poole. Looks fantastic and very subtle.