RIP, Kilgour

[andreyb]

...as a bespoke tailoring house.

http://www.insideretail.asia/2013/09/15 ... s-kilgour/

Fung already owns G&H and Hardy Amies. This last purchase makes them own half of SR. Weird times we live in...

Andrey

[Aristide]

"SRB CEO Tony Yusof says Fung Capital will develop the brands into global ready-to-wear brands."

A slight nudge towards the cliff for SR bespoke?? Or, a ready subsidy for bespoke component??

[dempsy444]

I would think bespoke is too strategic to their overall plan to be a nudge towards the cliff. But I guess it really depends on the temperament and disposition of the new owners. It sort of reminds me of the situation with the Washington Post and Amazon.

[jahyeti]

There has been several attempts to make Kilgour a viable RTW brand. I remember Kilgoure French & Stansbury branded stuff at Barneys years ago and more recently the Brandelli era Kilgour stuff also at Barneys. Not sure why it will work now.

[dempsy444]

In the States, I have seen some of the English houses like Kilgour and Huntsman try and sell through stores like Barney's or Saks but it usually doesn't last long. The stores drop them and stick with their Italian lineup.
I can see why a hedge fund would be attracted to these large Row brands. They are probably getting the brands relatively cheap due to the challenging business model of bespoke.
If they can figure out how to leverage the brand to take a dent out of the italian retail market share, it would be a good ROI. I suppose the global success of shows like Downton Abbey are giving them more confidence.

I wonder if people believe this is good for english bespoke or bad? Is there evidence that Kiton and Brioni feed the italian bespoke business as global customers seek the italian look but custom made? I suppose there is a possibility that if global customers move to a more English style ready-wear a certain percentage may swim upstream to bespoke. This could be good for many of the bespoke tailors on and off the Row perhaps.

[andreyb]

http://en.pambianconews.com/fung-capita ... portfolio/

"Fung Capital ... is in talks to acquire a third Savile Row tailor in the next six months."

Jeesus... I don't know if selling SR-branded RTW goods is good for bespoke part of the business or not, but I certainly don't want to see half of the Row owned by single hands -- English, Chinese or Russian ones.

Andrey

[alden]

I have never heard of an Italian brand called "John Richmond." The CEO says he wants to create a "centre of excellence" on SR, including training in the bespoke craft. He is an ex SR tailor. Who knows...it might turn out to be a good thing. He wants to compete with Zegna, Brioni and Kiton et al. Good luck to him.

[Simon A]

I know one of the directors of the parent company in Hong Kong. They have successfully introduced many well known British RTW brands to the China market, such as Kent & Curwen, and Gieves & Hawkes. They are changing emphasis from high volume garment manufacturing and trading to brand management, and this development obviously fits in with that strategy. If they can convince wealthy Chinese customers to travel to the Row, or for Row tailors to visit Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou for bespoke service, it may provide a very substantial flow of business to the British tailors servicing them.

[smudger]

More sad times for the Row. Might we also add RIP Huntsman to the heading......?

[Scot]

More sad times for the Row. Might we also add RIP Huntsman to the heading......?

What do you know?

My own tailor, a few doors along, has been telling me for months that all was not well. It would be a terrible day for the row.

[Frederic Leighton]

More sad times for the Row. Might we also add RIP Huntsman to the heading......?

What do you know? My own tailor, a few doors along, has been telling me for months that all was not well. It would be a terrible day for the row.

I was very surprised when my tailor told me (and he did more than once) of how Huntsman has been getting rid of many of the staff lately.

[smudger]

I am told that on top of two well established cutters leaving (mine included) four of their most established Tailors have left Huntsman to work elsewhere. When i was in last I was shocked to find that the cutters boards where customers could see their suits being cut has now vanished and in its place an exhibition of old musty ceremonial garments. I enquired with Peter Smith why this change had taken place and his reply, (filled with exasperation and a sigh) explained that this is what the new owners felt was needed. My business has followed my cutter.

[Russell]

The new owners of Huntsman have also felt the need to finish with the services of the British company who made their MTM range in favour of an Italian maker.

[smudger]

I didn't know this. I have bought a couple of their RTW sports jackets in the past also and they weren't bad. It's a shame they could not endorse English manufacturing to endorse their English tailoring acquisition. Why would they do that? In addition to Mr Ward, I also use another house on the Row from time to time and their is a consistency to the stories of woe relating to the current climate within Huntsman. All very sad.

[hectorm]

Mr. Rubi’s goal (made explicit by himself as Huntsman new Director) is transferring all the wealth of the iconic SR house`s sartorial past into their new RTW clothes line.
I sense this is a misguided purpose, as Huntsman reputation (in decay since the mid 90s with the revolving door of ownerships) was built on bespoke and personal client/tailor relationships, which are in no way transferable to RTW. Huntsman has had RTW for many years now, and I can´t deny that the house´s style (and quality up to certain extent) were present in it. That is the most to what RTW can aspire. The rest (sartorial DNA, lifestyle, etc.) is just a marketing trick.
Meanwhile old time knowing bespoke clients continue to walk away a few yards to Richard Anderson´s and other shops.