a few questions

[Guest]

1) I am still looking for NHTC's contact info, which I lost.

2) Is there one correct way to lace a wholecut?

3) Can a three button roll-two correctly be worn with the two top buttons fastened, and not just the middle fastened?

4) I cannot find the remark someone made about "avoiding the Martin Bell" look with certain colors of linen. But I understand it and I had this problem with my light blue Irish linen suit. Can anyone make suggestions of how to avoid this problem, besides the obvious (don't wear light blue Irish linen). Some nurses even said they made fun of me behind my back when I wore it (after the fact), which highlights a problem I once wrote about, that medicine is really very conservative sartorially and you can get away with very little before you appear Dandy-ish in a bad way.

[manton]

3) No. If it is really cut as a roll through, the chest will pull on either side of the top button and the lapel roll will be twisted out of shape.

4) Stick with various shades of tan, cream and olive. To my eye, linen looks best in those colors. It does not look bad in navy, but personally I don't see the point. Linen is a warm weather cloth. In warm weather, I like to wear light colors, both because they are cooler (they reflect the sunlight) and the look nice and would be out of place in winter, so why not go whole hog in summer?

[Mark Seitelman]

I must dissent from my learned friend, Manton.

I like linen in dark colors as well as light colors. I have a dark grey trouser, and my wife has a Geoffrey Beene suit in chocolate brown.

The thing that sets apart linen from wool is the texture, and, yes, the propensity to wrinkle.

I wouldn't worry about the sartorial tastes of your hospital's nurses.

[Guest]

Another question: lining. I had my linen suit partially lined. Why didn't the tailor propose that it be un-lined? I mean, is there any disadvantage to its being unlined?

[dopey]

David:
I have disagreed elsewhere with Manton about the use of navy linen. I love it and he does not. I don’t think either of us think there is anything more than personal preference here.

I have heard arguments that linen coats should be lined as it needs some extra help keeping its shape. My linen suit is lined. I do not believe the argument though. I also don’t believe that linen coats must be unlined. Here to, there are preferences and it is hard to imagine any empiric work having been done to determine if there is true Pareto efficiency to any particular solution. I don’t even think you could get to Caldor-Hicks efficiency. Trust your tailor and if you are curious, next time ask him.

[manton]

It's probably a good idea to line lightweight Italian "handkerchief" linen. It just does not have the strength to hold any decent shape without a lining. Sturdy Irish linen, however, does not need a lining. No lining will make the coat cooler as well. The main reason to get a lining, I suppose, is if you like the way a lined coat slips on and off easily.

[BirdofSydney]

It's probably a good idea to line lightweight Italian "handkerchief" linen. It just does not have the strength to hold any decent shape without a lining. Sturdy Irish linen, however, does not need a lining. No lining will make the coat cooler as well. The main reason to get a lining, I suppose, is if you like the way a lined coat slips on and off easily.

I shall be having a pair of summer trousers made, somewhere between these two extremes of weight. The colour will be white or the lightest cream. I propose to have them half-lined if only for the reason that white will mark quickly even from a little sweat. Am I overreacting?

Best,

E

[manton]

Good question. I don't know. I have never had linen trousers lined, and I have not had this problem. Anyone else?

[Concordia]

I also disagree about navy linen-- indeed, the first and so far only linen suit I have is dark blue. The only thing I would change about it is to look for a cooler shade-- current iteration (from the W. Bill book) has a decided hint of red that is noticeable in the sun. Looks nice in the evening, though.

[Concordia]

Very white, porous cloth might well stand to be lined when made into trousers for reasons that have nothing to do with humidity. A white cotton lining, perhaps?

[manton]

I don't get summer suits in navy in any fabric because I find them hot, and because I like light colors. I think I am going to get more light colors even for winter. But linens for me will always be olive or tan or cream. De gustibus.

[Concordia]

I also need more light colors-- when I select what looks good in the dead of October it never seems right on a sunny springtime day. But that is a separate issue.

[manton]

I found some killer light gray worsted flannel recently. 11 oz. Lesser. Right out of an Apparel Arts illustration. That will be SB with a DB vest.

[Concordia]

I think I might have a sample of that. Would make excellent trousers, and in my bolder moments I think about a DB suit. But the best weather for that might be too warm for flannel, unless we repeat the endless cold spring we had this year. My own feint in this direction is likely to be a light grey 10oz pick-and-pick.

[alden]

Concordia

One I especially like is from the Crispaire book from Holland & Sherry #333100. It's a mohair blend mid-grey pick and pick. If you prefer a blue/grey you might try the #333105 from the same book. Make it unlined if you want to wear it in Spring and Summer.

M Alden