Ratio USA MTM shirts and proper shirt/jacket sizing?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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internationalist
Posts: 127
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2010 12:45 pm
Location: Europe
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Sun Sep 01, 2013 2:55 am

I searched the forum for "Ratio" but obviously it is a common term so I didn't find the American MTM brand. They seem to have a good press - - http://www.ratioclothing.com/t-about-press.aspx

They use 5 points to measure:
- http://www.ratioclothing.com/t-about-fit.aspx
- http://www.ratioclothing.com/t-howto-sizing.aspx

Of them I only know 2 for myself:

1 - Neck size - if it means you can insert 2 fingers between the collar and your neck - at least that is the common belief.
(Though I may not get this excerpt from the review - http://dappered.com/2011/08/the-splurge ... sa-shirts/
no more 15.5 collars cutting off blood flow while 16 collars hang too loose.)
2 - Slim fit - Are you all in for slim fit rather than classic fit?

About the other 3 measurements - shirt sleeve length, jacket chest size and jacket length -, really basic questions I know, I may ask your advice. If you have a reliable source for those basics. I don't know if the info I find in my old book (http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... =4&t=10287) is legit. My hunch is I am just in between two sizes regarding jacket chest.

Yeah, in an ideal world, it is all your tailor's job and you don't have to worry about any of that, but reading this very forum convinced me the real world experience is different and YMMV.

And however you like bespoke you may just pop into a store once in a while to try on various garments for fun and profit, don't you?

Or heck, you may have to check up on your tailors and have to use some point of reference, don't you?

Additional info (for slim fit shirts I guess):
Source - http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... =4&t=10962
(I kind of enjoyed this one - even though many of you have been so negative about it :( )

Fair quote:

Choosing a shirt can nevertheless be a tricky job without
advice, as there are many points to take into account.
1. First of all, focus on the collar: it has to be stiff.
There’s nothing worse on shirts than flabby collars
that curl up after washing. A shirt with removable
stiffeners is great: you can remove the stiffeners
while washing and put them back in when you wear
the shirt,
2.Now look at the shoulder stitching: it has to align
with the break of your shoulder bone,
3.The shirt should also gently mold to the shape of
your chest,
4.Check the armpit, there shouldn’t be too much
excess fabric, and the shirt shouldn’t float too much
(0,5 inch max under the armpit).
5.Fit: There shouldn’t be room for more than one fist
between the shirt and your hip,
6.Finally, make sure that your shirt has the
appropriate length, ending at the level of your belt if
you wear it outside your trousers, and far below the
belt if you wear it tucked into your trousers.
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