Hunting Jackets and the Capalbio

[Guest]

I once posted about this before on AAAC and I got imprecise answers, and forgive me if I posted about this before on LL: the weather causes me to think about warm coats and tweeds and flannels and all those good things, and one seasonal item is the shooting jacket, which I know has no standard definition but there is a stereotyped version sold by Norton, Chrysalis (this is Bruar's too), Purdey, Haggart's, and Cording's (and others I am sure). It has large cargo pockets in the front, has a tweed exterior, and various magical properties. Has anyone seen these particular coats and which is the most beautiful?

Also, Michael once wrote of a tailor that specializes in the Capalbio coat, but he did not provide further details. Is there any chance we can have his contact information to arrange a commission?

[Guest]

Just to facilitate responses, here are links to various jackets of the sort I was referring to, you can see how similar they are to one another:

http://www.bsaltd.com/pages/L0703.htm

http://www.purdey.com/product.php?id=6&cid=44&g=M

http://www.haggarts.com/images/products ... a_coat.htm

http://www.williamevans.com/

http://www.houseofbruar.com/store.asp?t ... okies=True

http://www.savilerowsporting.co.uk/vienna1.html

http://www.hollandandholland.com/catalo ... oduit=1045

http://www.cordings.co.uk/

[Leonard Logsdail]

I have seen many quite good looking field coats of the sort you describe. It is difficult to quantify which are the best looking as, had been said before, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Some I have made, personally, I have not liked. Others look fabulous. My preference is to a bolder design on the fabric to set it apart from the rest.

Leonard

[Guest]

I agree about the boldness of the fabric: any thoughts as to quality of construction or comfort of the models I provided links to? What made you unhappy about the jackets you made?

[zjpj]

I like the look of the Purdey one very much.

[Guest]

Another related question: Ed Hayes' beautiful coat of NH tweed, where did he identify the design? What is a classic design for a 3/4 length coat? I liked the design, though his choce of tweed was too bold for me for a overcoat (I have the same tweed in a hacking jacket).

[Trilby]

I am also very keen on this type of shooting jacket. It has the same sort of practicality and country style of a Barbour jacket, but it has the significant advantage of being much warmer. As anyone who has worn a Barbour on a very cold day will know, there isn't much protection from the cold in waxed cotton.

If you are looking for something in an more unusual cloth, you should take a look in Paul Stuart. Last winter, they had some real beauties. Very different from the standard tweeds that you normally see used for these shooting jackets in the UK.

Leonard -- perhaps you could say a little more about bespoke versions of these. I have only ever seen these in RTW, although I know a couple of the Savile Row houses that cater to the hunting/shooting/fishing set will make them. I imagine the construction is very different from a conventional jacket. Also, do you use goretex or something similar in the interlinings to make them more waterproof?

[Guest]

Okay, what about a 3/4 length "field coat" from the tweed displayed in the Cloth Club folder, unlabelled, 1 or 22? What is a classic "form" for a 3/4 length coat? Would Ed Hayes' coat be "classic?"

[Guest]

I'm considering a Maremmana coat, in a heavy corduoy or moleskin, and flannel lining. It's similar to a standrd 3-b coat, but added a game pocket nd vary amenities.

[DD MacDonald]

......do you use goretex or something similar in the interlinings to make them more waterproof?

I know that this is long cold thread, but I just found it.

If you ever have a field coat made, some form of a technical interlining is essential. I have a coat from H&H with a goretex or other lining that is fantastic. The tweed of the coat can be absolutely soaked with the only wettness being that which wicks in through the collar into the shoulders.

I don't know who is making these coats but if I see something promising in The Field or elsehwere I'll post it.

DDM

[Trilby]

Thanks DDM. I had assumed that some sort of waterproof lining would be needed.

[tteplitzmd]

For whatever it is worth, Tip Top had some Loro Piana 'storm system' material, I hesitate to call it cloth, but suitably sandwiched between an outer shell and Bemberg, it would do quite well. I am thinking of having a 'golf jacket' or blousson made in thornproof tweed, in fact I have the fabric, and am considering lining it with the 'storm system' material. It does have a rather space age consistency, and might pose problems in tailoring. I am going to look at the material again when I go back to Tip Top.

[Guest]

I do not know for sure who makes H&H's version, but Chrysalis makes Purdey's, and I suspect they do H&H's version too. They are a relatively new company, but they have somehow got the lock on this sort of garment.

[DD MacDonald]

Gents,

I don't know who made Hollands, but I remember seeing MTM jackets in Ede & Ravenscroft in Cambridge c.1989-1994 as well as in in the window for Norton at #16 SR. I was in London last winter but can't remember who is currently doing them.

I'm not familiar with the Loro Piana interlining, but if it is available I would certainly seek to use it on the reputation of LP for technical fabrics. I have seen the LP jackets and think that they look great however more an equestrian or country crusing look than a country shooting look in my opinion. At least not the shooting look I go for - I'm a mortgage-boots, old leather, and mixed tweed type of guy.

I think that one of the great joys of going MTM or bespoke is the ability to choose the tweed. Can anyone say "estate tweed"? Just looking in the photo journal makes me nearly salivate on the subject.

If you have a coat done, let me give a couple of words of advice. The storm cuffs on the H&H were a tight knit "cuff" inside of the tweed tube. While completely sealing the wrist (a seeming good) they somewhat constricted movement because they did not allow the wrist to slip through the sleeve when extendig the arm with the effect that you would drag the weight of the coat when swinging the gun (not good). After one afternoon in the coat I cut the cuff from the edge to where it attached to the sleeve to open it and whiped the edges - it works much better. The second issue is the "hanger" on the inside of the yoke - its a wonderful looking chain rivited to the jacket. Althougth wonderful to look at, the chain is at a height just a fraction above my collar line and unless I am wearing a scarf it touches my neck. Although I usually don't notice it, on a cold day it can feel like some one put an ice cube down the back of your shirt. I have yet to do anything about that however.

DDM

[Trilby]

On the subject of waterproof country clothes, has anyone had experience with teflon-coated tweeds? The Thrie Estates mill in Hawick has produced some fantastic looking tweeds in which the wool is given some sort of teflon coating. The result is that water just beads up on the surface of the cloth and runs straight off - just like a non-stick frying pan. I'm not sure whether it is a gimmick or if it is truly a useful innovation for country clothes. It's been a couple of years since I last saw this cloth - the fact that it has not become hugely popular might say something about how well it works.