name this weave ?

[workwear dandy]

can anyone help me name this weave ?

[Simon A]

Bouclé yarns in what looks like a twill weave. Common in ladieswear fabric.

[workwear dandy]

thanks Simon,

Bouclé...anyone agree, disagree, challenge ?

[hectorm]

Dear workwear dandy,
after reading your other post about the Russian braid I gather you have a knack for uncommon weaves and patterns, and I suspect you may have us for a surprise.
Although is kind of hard to tell only by those pictures, the weave in small looser loops looks like bouclé also to me. As Simon A implies, that cloth has a certain feminine touch to it, but I should add that it has found its way into men's wear too. I've seen it in men overcoats, hats (in some kind of fake astrakan), knit neckties and, as far as I could track it down, even in old French winter golf wear .
Those samples look definitely vintage. If it weren´t for the slight tattersall pattern in them -that might indicate a garment cloth- I would say that they even look like carpeting material.

[workwear dandy]

hectorm,

you're right they're vintage and certainly not feminine, but i wish i did know more about this weave and was able to surprise you with the answer.
i'm happy to accept bouclé, even with it's rather feminine overtones, unless anyone else can offer an alternative.

here's the original source. Burton, 1932:



and a piece of unused cloth:

[Simon A]

Imperial wool means Australian Merino wool (in 1932 Australia was an Imperial Dominion). The loops in a bouclé fabric tend to catch on brambles and scrub, so it is not really a country cloth; more for weekend city wear.

[cathach]

hectorm,

you're right they're vintage and certainly not feminine, but i wish i did know more about this weave and was able to surprise you with the answer.
i'm happy to accept bouclé, even with it's rather feminine overtones, unless anyone else can offer an alternative.

Well you might be able to get vintage cloth from cloth jobbers in Manchester, Leeds, Birmingham, London or Paris. Or buy modern heavy cloth.

A loop yarn will snag which is one thing to be aware of, and although ladieswear seems to have taken over a lot of texture and colour that men wore I see no reason why you couldn't use it yourself.

The use of the CC41 symbol on the cloth dates it to between 1941 and 1952 when rationing ended.