Tweed jacket MTM in London

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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lgcintra
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Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:48 pm

Fellow Loungers,

I presented a good friend with some LLTW. He took it to a traditional house in London. They made a MTM jacket for him -- something I advised him against, but... Can I get some comments from our wise membership regarding fit and construction? I would convey them to him, so he could eventually ask for alterations.

Best,
Luis

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Costi
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Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:08 pm

Luis,

What do you think needs alteration? The coat is made and finished and it doesn't look like a failure at all.
No idea what the back looks like.
Perhaps lengthen that left sleeve a bit.
If your friend fancies a different style / cut, he can go bespoke next time...

I hope the wise members will chime in, too :wink:
Scot
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Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:35 pm

There is a gap between the coat and shirt collar on his right side - but posture is an issue I think!
andreyb
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Tue Mar 19, 2013 2:00 pm

Left hand shows much more shirt cuff than right one. But then again, might be due to the posture.

Andrey
hectorm
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Wed Mar 20, 2013 3:10 am

I agree with previous posts regarding the length of the left sleeve and gap around the collar (discounting for posture, of course, which doesn't look very "natural" to me). These two things should be corrected.
I would add that the arm holes look also a bit big and low. This is more common with MTM jackets and I'm not sure much can be done about it.
Russell
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Wed Mar 20, 2013 7:37 am

I'm thinking that the gap to one side of the neck & the difference in sleeve length are due to the jacket not being put on properly - i.e. it's all 'to one side' (the two 'faults' are easy to replicate even with a well fitting jacket). If straightened up it would likely be fine in those respects. As has been mentioned - the persons stance doesn't help.
DFR
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Wed Mar 20, 2013 11:21 am

Apart from the left sleeve appearing to be too short by far I am not really sure why you are being so critical. If he likes it than that surely is good enough?
lgcintra
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Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:36 pm

Many thanks to everyone. It is always a sure bet to count on LL´s contituency. I certainly agree higher armholes would have been much better, but I think that is probably something that cannot be altered.



DFR, you´re partially right. He liked it (which surely prevents any personal ills against the garnment) , but he does not understand things sartorial properly. Your comments are always true and sharp and, at least in my perspective, are very much appreciated, many thanks.
uppercase
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Wed Mar 20, 2013 5:42 pm

Pretty darn good for a first time MTM.

Looks like a Huntsman.

The only point which bothers me is the buttoning point and the positioning of the second, lowest button. That's a typical problem when coats come straight from the factory with all button holes cut. And now it can't be altered nor can the cuff buttons but certainly that one cuff can be lengthened.

In any case, I think that the coat would have looked better with one button, placed at a lower point, particularly given the very closed front quarters plus longish coat length.

And I don't much care for ticket pockets, particularly on sports coats.

Still, very nice and nice choice of cloth as well.
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