I was surprised to find a question in the Anonymous forum about the wearing of black suits, and even more so that a number of replies seemed to find them drab and funereal.
To my mind, there's nothing more chic and elegant than a well-cut black suit, and they are appropriate for nearly every occasion. Furthermore, they can be paired with nearly any colour shirt and tie (provided these match one another, of course).
The very first suit I owned was a black three-button, and the latest I've acquired is a one button, peak lapeled Italian cut garment. I'll wear one of them at least once a week. The latter, I suspect, is occasionally mistaken by the layman for some sort of dinner jacket, as I'm now and then asked what the big occasion is. Then again, it might just be the sense of gravitas that a well-accessorised black suit creates. Looking to the films, in particular from the classic era, there are innumerable examples of dashing gents in black suits.
Are there any other fans out there?
Best,
Eden
Black suits - out of the closet
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BirdofSydney
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Well I'm kind of torn on black suits. I used to think the same way as you, however as time went on I found myself disliking black suits more and more. Maybe it's because I started identifying black as too "fashionista." Or maybe it's because I wouldn't go to work wearing one. Or maybe it was manton's fault.
Anyways, if I wanted the effect of black without going black, I would choose a dark charcoal grey. Also, those "black" suits you see in the old B&W movies probably aren't black. It's hard enough taking color pictures of navy blue without it looking black instead.
Anyways, if I wanted the effect of black without going black, I would choose a dark charcoal grey. Also, those "black" suits you see in the old B&W movies probably aren't black. It's hard enough taking color pictures of navy blue without it looking black instead.
Interesting. I find myself in the same position as Alias.
Five years ago I possessed several black suits, call it professional cloning. Being mistaken for a waiter in a fashionable restaurant made me question my thought processes.
Since reading Manton's and indeed other vehement feelings on the subject I've developed a degree of discomfort with my black suits, certainly for day or business wear. I've also come to truly appreciate charcoal grey, particularly in a high quality heavy fabric.
Five years ago I possessed several black suits, call it professional cloning. Being mistaken for a waiter in a fashionable restaurant made me question my thought processes.
Since reading Manton's and indeed other vehement feelings on the subject I've developed a degree of discomfort with my black suits, certainly for day or business wear. I've also come to truly appreciate charcoal grey, particularly in a high quality heavy fabric.
The only thing I am really vehement about is insisting -- in the face of heated yet ill-informed denials -- that solid black suits have long been considered declasse on Savile Row (and in the better ateliers of Milan and Naples and New York).
Beyond that, it is true that I don't like them. Leaving aside all the historical precedents (which are of course near and dear to my heart) I don't like black lounge suits for primarily aesthetic reasons. I think black looks smashing with white and silver and gray -- and not much else. Maybe dark red. Thus black is ideally suited for formal wear, whether day or night. (I exempt shoes from this judgement. While I generally prefer brown shoes to black, I admit that black shoes look quite good with blue. Whereas, for instance, I think that black coats look bad with blue shirts.)
Black is (to me) too severe for ordinary wear, and for day wear. It is not warm, not interesting. And its effect on most colors is, to my eye, negative. It at once "darkens" them and drains them of their vitality. This is hard to explain. But certain colors work to mutual advantage. Blue and brown, for instance. Black only works to its own advantage. Black is a hog, a spotlight sucker. Black overwhelms and crushes the spirit of most other colors. They have to be super-bright to stand up to black. Then the combination looks like a sports team uniform. Women can look fine with kelly green or royal blue or hot pink with black. Not men.
The darkest grays and blues avoid these problems, while conferring all the benefits of black: seriousness, gravity, dignity, formaliy, sobriety, etc.
Beyond that, it is true that I don't like them. Leaving aside all the historical precedents (which are of course near and dear to my heart) I don't like black lounge suits for primarily aesthetic reasons. I think black looks smashing with white and silver and gray -- and not much else. Maybe dark red. Thus black is ideally suited for formal wear, whether day or night. (I exempt shoes from this judgement. While I generally prefer brown shoes to black, I admit that black shoes look quite good with blue. Whereas, for instance, I think that black coats look bad with blue shirts.)
Black is (to me) too severe for ordinary wear, and for day wear. It is not warm, not interesting. And its effect on most colors is, to my eye, negative. It at once "darkens" them and drains them of their vitality. This is hard to explain. But certain colors work to mutual advantage. Blue and brown, for instance. Black only works to its own advantage. Black is a hog, a spotlight sucker. Black overwhelms and crushes the spirit of most other colors. They have to be super-bright to stand up to black. Then the combination looks like a sports team uniform. Women can look fine with kelly green or royal blue or hot pink with black. Not men.
The darkest grays and blues avoid these problems, while conferring all the benefits of black: seriousness, gravity, dignity, formaliy, sobriety, etc.
Those of us with an interest in history will note that black looks great with deep yellow (think Goldfinger's Black over Yellow Phantom III). I recall a portrait of Charles James Fox in a black redingote (to use the Continental spelling) and a yellow waistcoat covering the vast expanse of his stomach. A splendid combination, but today it is restricted to the rather historical morning suit. Chosing a yellow shirt does not help because the white of the shirt is required to balance the contrast.
Therefore I must agree that while black may be skilfully worn to achieve acceptable results, a blue or charcoal would be equallly good if not better, with less trouble involved.
Therefore I must agree that while black may be skilfully worn to achieve acceptable results, a blue or charcoal would be equallly good if not better, with less trouble involved.
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BirdofSydney
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I shall concede, certainly, that there are a great many things which will work with navy or grey, which will not work with black. I dare say, I am not surprised that they're out of favour in Savile Row. I was a little more interested that they're also tunica non grata in Italia.
To my mind, black suits work with white shirts and pale ties, or pale shirts and intricately patterned ties. They work in combinations which might clash with navy, and lack distinctness against grey. They also have potential with white shirts and dark, rich ties in reds or browns. As this pretty well covers the field of my taste in shirts and ties, you will understand my predilection. I don't really tend to wear boldly striped or checked shirts, or club ties, which I certainly agree would not work with black.
I shall, as ever, perhaps put it down to what I find to be the basis for a lot of my tastes. Namely, shortness of stature and light hair and skin. In grey, I struggle to look distinct. Though, I am thinking direly about having a dark navy wool/mohair suit made. Perhaps it will come to supplant the blacks. I've never been mistaken for a waiter, I dare say. They don't tend to wear silk pocket squares, or gold cufflinks, I find.
One final curious point. I interviewed for a job not so long ago with a London law firm ("Magic Circle", I shall not specify which). Their image, certainly, was a "younger" and more progressive one, though I understand that may be mostly a marketing ploy dreamed up by Messrs Saatchi. I wore a black suit, a white shirt and a silver tie, which I felt to be a very dressy, but quite nice looking and certainly confident combination. I wonder, though, in light of the comments of the gentlemen here, whether they might have felt it inappropriate for a job interview?
Kind regards,
Eden
To my mind, black suits work with white shirts and pale ties, or pale shirts and intricately patterned ties. They work in combinations which might clash with navy, and lack distinctness against grey. They also have potential with white shirts and dark, rich ties in reds or browns. As this pretty well covers the field of my taste in shirts and ties, you will understand my predilection. I don't really tend to wear boldly striped or checked shirts, or club ties, which I certainly agree would not work with black.
I shall, as ever, perhaps put it down to what I find to be the basis for a lot of my tastes. Namely, shortness of stature and light hair and skin. In grey, I struggle to look distinct. Though, I am thinking direly about having a dark navy wool/mohair suit made. Perhaps it will come to supplant the blacks. I've never been mistaken for a waiter, I dare say. They don't tend to wear silk pocket squares, or gold cufflinks, I find.
One final curious point. I interviewed for a job not so long ago with a London law firm ("Magic Circle", I shall not specify which). Their image, certainly, was a "younger" and more progressive one, though I understand that may be mostly a marketing ploy dreamed up by Messrs Saatchi. I wore a black suit, a white shirt and a silver tie, which I felt to be a very dressy, but quite nice looking and certainly confident combination. I wonder, though, in light of the comments of the gentlemen here, whether they might have felt it inappropriate for a job interview?
Kind regards,
Eden
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Will
Low end American retail seems to favor black solids. So when I interview a man wearing a black suit, I assume he doesn't know any better. Not a strikeout but not a positive either.
I'll choose a nailhead or a pick and pick to meet a stranger.
I'll choose a nailhead or a pick and pick to meet a stranger.
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