First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?

[Liquidus]

Hello everyone. My name is Justin and I'm coming to this website to learn more about bespoke clothing and fabric. I'm currently thinking about having a navy blazer made as my first piece of bespoke clothing. I live in the California Bay Area and would like it to be appropriate for business environments. After doing much research, it seems like I should look for a hopsack weave in a heavier weave. At first I was considering 657082 Navy Hopsack in H&S Perennial. A local tailor quoted me $1,300 for a jacket using this fabric, which is more than I would like to spend for now. The other option I've come across is 9428 Navy Hopsack in Dugdale's English and Town Classics. My tailor doesn't carry this one, but would do CMT for $700. I've contacted Dugdale and their fabric is very inexpensive. Would this be a good choice, and is there anything else I should consider? Thank you.

http://www.dugdalebros.com/Our-Ranges/E ... Bunch-134/

[old henry]

Go with Dougdale avoid H&S and at all costs.. Have fun.

[T.K.]

Hi Liquidus, I do not know the H&S cloth but do have a suit out of the Dugdale cloth you refer to, only in a dark shade of grey. The cloth has a lot of character and has a nice soft and supple hand to it. The structure of the weave is rather small, which makes me think 'suiting' before 'jacketing'. However, even though I cannot be sure about the navy, the grey hardly has any sheen to it. My guess is that it could work as a blazer. One alternative I can think of is Minnis fresco, which has a navy in two weights in it, or maybe a nice piece of flannel in an appropriate weight for the climate you are in. Good luck!

[Liquidus]

Thanks for the replies. I've heard fresco being recommended often for a blazer, but two things have prevented me from considering it further:

1. I've looking for something in a fall/winter weight and fresco seems to be designed for summer.

2. I've never seen it in person, but I've heard that fresco isn't really "business appropriate," especially after wear. Amusingly, I recall someone describing it as looking like a "wet dog."

[old henry]

Then go Dougdale. Town Classics is one of my favorite books.

[T.K.]

Thanks for the replies. I've heard fresco being recommended often for a blazer, but two things have prevented me from considering it further:

1. I've looking for something in a fall/winter weight and fresco seems to be designed for summer.

2. I've never seen it in person, but I've heard that fresco isn't really "business appropriate," especially after wear.

You are right that the 2 ply variant is a summer cloth, but the 3 ply is much, much heavier, yet still an open weave indeed. I wouldn't worry about it not being 'business appropriate'.

[dkst]

I'm currently making a jacket out of H. Lesser's 16 oz navy 29616.

I love it, very full bodied cloth with a dry finish. The texture of the weave is quite visible. Perfect blazer cloth.

English and Town Classics is excellent cloth too, and a very good value.

[rodes]

Liquidus,
I had a SB suit cut from 9436, navy pick and pick, perhaps three years ago. I really like it, so much so, that I am considering a DB from the very same. Substantial, 14 ounce cloth that drapes well.

[Liquidus]

Liquidus,
I had a SB suit cut from 9436, navy pick and pick, perhaps three years ago. I really like it, so much so, that I am considering a DB from the very same. Substantial, 14 ounce cloth that drapes well.

Would you consider that one suitable for a blazer or more for suits?

[Pins&Needles]

I would recommend a nice navy hopsack from Smith Woollens. They have great depth of colour and hold up really well. I love hopsack as it offers a little more texture without going overboard.

Karl

[Concordia]

I would recommend a nice navy hopsack from Smith Woollens. They have great depth of colour and hold up really well. I love hopsack as it offers a little more texture without going overboard.

Karl

The Steadfast 14oz., or are there other nice ones they offer?

(BTW I have a suit out of the dark grey Steadfast hopsack. Useful stuff.)

[Liquidus]

Thanks for the ongoing replies. After doing more research, it seems that some other fabric brands worth looking into include Smith (Botany, Steadfast) and Harrisons (Oyster, Fine Classics). I've also read much about Lesser, but I'm not sure if their very traditional style is right for me. I should mention that I'm only 23 and want to dress my age (in a good way), but also want the very best in quality (that I can afford). Unfortunately, the local tailor that I'm considering working with doesn't carry any of the books I mentioned. It seems that Isles Textiles Group handles all the sales for these 3 in the USA (also Dugdale, but they'll sell direct to me from the UK). I'll have to see if they'll sell directly to me.

[davidhuh]

Dear Liquidus,

listen to Karl Matthews and go for a hopsack. You will not regret it.

cheers, David

[dkst]

I recently made a navy blazer for my girlfriend out of Dugdale 8729 (navy plain blazer cloth) from the Formal Wear book. This is a fantastic cloth. It is a barathea type weave, so it has a bit of surface interest. It's quite a matte finish (a positive quality in my eyes) and is very crease resistent. This may be a good place to start for you. It's also an excellent value compared to Lesser.



Unfortunately the picture doesn't show the cloth very well! It makes up very nicely.

[dkst]

My current thoughts on "dressing your age" for people in their 20s. You will look good in plain colours in a classic cut that flatters your body. I personally find plain colours very "modern." If you want to be a bit different, try a unique shade like aubergine, blue, green, brown, but keep it understated. I try to focus more on texture than pattern. I would avoid stripes and checks. Avoid wearing a suit. Forget the current fashion trend in cut (short jacket, narrow lapels). Stick with classic proportions, and you will look right.

You are smart to commission a blazer that you can wear with jeans on the weekend.