Tweed for cycling

[Taller]

Thanks, Cathach. 32 oz (900 g)/m is way too heavy, however.

Meanwhile Magee should have sent me some swatches - I'm still waiting for their arrival. And from another thread I learned about the existence of Molloy & Sons, who produce more tweeds of a somewhat heavier type than both Lovat and Magee. Molloy's Plain Donegal tweeds weigh in at 545g (19oz)/m; their Herringbone Donegals at a slightly heavier 610g (21oz)/m - a nice alternative if I should decide to go for a somewhat heavier coat after all (and not wait for a Cloth Club alternative). (The Molloy & Sons collection may be browsed at http://www.flickr.com/photos/molloyands ... otostream/ but be warned: more irresistible cloth ahead) [as if this would stop you ]


Bart

[cathach]

Thanks, Cathach. 32 oz (900 g)/m is way too heavy, however.

Meanwhile Magee should have sent me some swatches - I'm still waiting for their arrival. And from another thread I learned about the existence of Molloy & Sons, who produce more tweeds of a somewhat heavier type than both Lovat and Magee. Molloy's Plain Donegal tweeds weigh in at 545g (19oz)/m; their Herringbone Donegals at a slightly heavier 610g (21oz)/m - a nice alternative if I should decide to go for a somewhat heavier coat after all (and not wait for a Cloth Club alternative). (The Molloy & Sons collection may be browsed at http://www.flickr.com/photos/molloyands ... otostream/ but be warned: more irresistible cloth ahead) [as if this would stop you ]


Bart

Bart,

Your warnings come far far too late in life for a committed tweed addict like myself, I'd flog my dear old nan for a length of the right salt and pepper stuff !! I have 5 metres of Pattern #070179 myself http://www.flickr.com/photos/molloyands ... otostream/ its much, much better in person and though 545g has a beautiful soft handle to it while being firm (if that makes sense).

Micheál

[Taller]

Micheál,

Congratulations on your Molloy & Sons blue/grey Donegal. It looks like one of the more subdued pieces of abstract expressionism in the bunch!
I'm as yet undecided which I like the most: the green and dark brown herringbone (6989 01), the impossible-to-describe 0701 54 (I call it the Jackson Pollock ) or the blueish 0701 122. Do they deal direct with the public?
And then there's the P & H Thornproof. I like their brownish 62028 and blue 62015. Same weight* (560g / 20 oz) as the M & S, but "using Cheviot twist yarn". It has been suggested by Russell a Cheviot is better for overcoating, but perhaps a tighter weave is more important?
Two working weeks have now passed since Magee (said they) sent me their swatches, but there's still no sign of them....

Bart

*edit: info on website differs from info on swatches

[Taller]

Called my tailor yesterday to ask if they had the P&H Tornproof book. Yes, they said, and would I like to come and see the coat they had just made for one of their clients with one of its cloths? So off I went - and came back rather disappointed.
The pictures on the Harrisons website are enlarged at least 3 times, so what I expected to be ruggedly handsome turned out to be smooth and clean-shaven. Like expecting to see a Lee Marvin movie and discovering he's been replaced by Dirk Bogarde (a fine actor, but not if you're in the mood for Lee.) "Thornproof"? Ha!
Also: the blue 62015 on the website is something completely different in the book; not all cloth is 560 grams (17/18 oz) (as the website claims); quite a few weigh in at only 400g (14 oz). One wonders if there are any more discrepancies.

Bart

[Taller]

Two month ago I wrote in this thread "Lovat also makes some darn good-looking heavier (teflon, even) tweeds, but at 640 grams (22 oz) I have to pass."
Well, it seems I'm not going to pass after all, because I finally opted for Lovat Mill's Ross Tweed ('Teviotex All Twist 640g, Heavy Weight with Teflon').



Lighter weight tweeds seemed almost paper-thin, and even this 640g Ross Tweed is transparent when held to a lamp. (My benchmark is the (400 g) LL Corn Herringbone Tweed, and the more tweeds I saw, the more I realized how good the LL CHT really is.)
Both Magee and Molloy & Sons never even replied to my requests for swatches. I finally got some through Bookster's website (http://www.tweed-jacket.com)...

Bart

[edit:] Update: received swatches from Molloy & Sons on december 17th and am rather impressed by their 610 g/21 oz herringbone 6989 01. (See at http://www.flickr.com/photos/molloyands ... hotostream.
It has a much better hand than the Ross (possibly due to the lack of teflon in the M&S). From a distance this cloth looks dark and restrained, but the closer you get and the more interesting its colour gets, as more colourful details (specks of ochre, orange, red) become visible. I'll mull it over for a few days before making the final choice.
B.

[edit 2:] typo's

[old henry]

The Malloy &Sons Donegal is the best I have seen.
A Ruddy Sturdy Weave befitting Squire "Red" Will Danaher.
See Red Will, played by Victor McLaglan in "The Quiet Man"
McLaglan, born in Kent England, was a Ruddy Sturdy Heavyweight champion.
He went six splendid, well fought rounds with all time great Jack Johnson.
Perhaps someone can post a photo of his tweed three piece from The Quiet Man.

[Rowly]

http://www.tumblr.com/tagged/set%20of%2 ... man?page=3


http://twitter.com/Neekyatn/status/2161 ... 17/photo/1


By the way, The character Richard Harrow, in Boardwalk Empire wears the nicest tweed salt n' pepper suits, usually in greens and browns, 3-pce, with db lapels.
http://fikklefame.com/wp-content/upload ... -Julia.jpg
They don't seem as heavy as The Squire's...but look very wearable. Any ideas of the tweed source?

[old henry]

You can get the Boardwalk Empire Tweeds from Isles Textiles.
Isles Textiles supplies them all.
Thank you Rowly for posting photos.

[Lugano]

Taller, I have a hat made by Bookster in the 'Ross' tweed. It is waterproof in light/medium rain, should that be a factor for you.

[old henry]

Bookster looks very promising. And experience with their suitings. ?

[davidhuh]

Bookster looks very promising. And experience with their suitings. ?

Dear Frank,

Bookster is a great place for tweed shopping on distance. Their mark up must be very humble. This is all I can comment about.

cheers, David

[old henry]

Thank You David. I am interested in their suitings also as I am in the market for a bench worthy cloth source.

[Rowly]

They use cloth from the usual sources such as Johnstons, Lovat Mill, Bateman Ogden ( Glenhunt), Hardy Alsport and Worsted alsport, Hartwist from Porter and Harding ( Harrisons), Glorious 12th, etc. etc.

http://www.tweed-jacket.com/CLOTH%20PAG ... /index.htm

They do display a good image of the pattern....and their site has a gallery showing some finished products, giving an even better idea of how a pattern might turn out.

I find this useful in considering bespoke possibilities...but I have not bought from them, so cannot comment on the fit and finish.

[old henry]

ah, do you mean to say rowly that the cloth on their website is those you have named above and not bookster commissioned ? or is there a bookster cloth?

[Rowly]

Frank, There is no Bookster cloth that I know of. They mostly do stock supported cloth. However, they had commissioned some discontinued stock patterns....ie, not their own design but a standard design the Mill had discontinued....but, I'm not sure this is still the case.
Look at this magnificent houndstooth...

http://www.tweed-jacket.com/GALLERY%20P ... 02_jpg.htm
The cloth is no longer available...unless ordered in a 60mtr. Piece, which they had done in the past. If they ever do it again...I will be their first customer.This pattern does not need tweaking! They do sell cloth by the mtr. also. I hope this helps.