I stumbled upon an article on T&A bespoke shirts, published in NYT back in 1985. It is interesting to compare some facts and numbers quoted there with how things are today -- using data from James Sherwood's latest book.
Annual bespoke output and where the shirts are made
Back in 1985: "With or without hand- sewn buttonholes, ''in excess of 20,000'' made-to-measure shirts are sold annually by Turnbull & Asser, according to Mr. Williams. The shop employs a workroom force of 300, which - deployed in five workrooms throughout London - finishes between 40 and 50 dozen shirts a week."
Today: "A relatively modest 500 bespoke shirts are made per annum. Mr Gale still takes a minimum of nineteen measurements for a client, and hand-cuts the paper pattern. It is then sent to Turnbull's factory in Gloucester, where the measurements are entered into a CAD (computer-aided design) system..."
How shirts are cut
In 1985: "The shirts are cut - on a wood block, with a razor-edged knife - in a basement below the Churchill Room."
Today: "...and the cloth is cut using a small hand saw and edges finished off with a pair of shears."
How often and for how long cutters visit US
In 1985: "Four representatives of the firm - fitters, cutters and patternmakers - establish headquarters at a New York hotel (for 10 days in the spring, 20 days in the fall) where they make available the same fat sample books of fabric kept in the London shop, as well as stock shirts."
Today: No information in Sherwood's book. I heard that measurements are taken by the staff from NY shop, with no cutters or fitters involved. Is this correct?
How T&A degraded so quickly and profoundly? From 20,000 to 500, and from five workrooms in London to zero? Al-Fayeds are to blame?
Andrey