The Style Quotient

[bond_and_beyond]

As far as present day style icons, beyond the few Princes here or there or De Niro, I draw a blank. We live in "The Age of the Slovenly" and it is not about to change anytime soon. What I find most distressing is that even people in the trade, and I include the blogging entrepreneurs, have little talent for dressing. I am truly amazed that anyone bothers to look at them.

Cheers

I guess one tries to reach out for guidance where one can, and in the present day true gold is so hard to find that many will mistake pyrite for the real thing...

BB

[uppercase]

I agree that for SQ to be useful, it needs to move beyond older style icons.

I also agree that it is useful to first calibrate the SQ scale.

The SQ is not limited to a period, a style nor the perfect and uncontroversial.

To make this thread interesting, let us see photos and hear your views.

[NJS]

Michael - I think that the Grego sketch of Brummell et al. was something of a caricature; although those old shoemakers could do some very fine work and it is unlikely that Brummell would have sacrificed fit for appearance. The main point about the sketch for me is that he immediately stands out (partly that is his palcement in the foreground) but, even so, without being, in any way, extravagantly dressed for the time, he is pre-eminent and is holding the Duchess of Rutland in thrall.

I am trying to find a large enough image of David Jacobs - British TV host and radio DJ. He is old but he is still broadcasting and has always been stylishly turned out.
NJS

[hectorm]

I think Uppercase's initiative is a good one. Let's start by calibrating the Richter scale to the ideal of 10. A few examples set the stage for what is to come

Let´s see if this is helpful:

In terms of overall impact and presence I believe Edward Sexton´s SQ is 10/10. His use of apparel (love or hate his distinctive taste) is irreproachable. His suits, shirts and ties are impeccable, his accessorizing shows some substantive personality, and although another man could feel restrained by his structured clothes and his fastidious grooming, he always manages to look relaxed and comfortable.

[NJS]

Sexton's tie is a bit too neat I think. The son of friends (18 years old) was in a concert last night and his parents told me today that they had to 'rough up' his black tie before he went on - and they explained to him why!
NJS

[alden]

A little photoshop and we see Mr Sexton’s dress better.

I am a fan. This photo, in my mind, goes to prove that the man makes the clothes especially when the man does make his own clothes.

Sexton has chosen to cut a very relaxed dinner suit. The notch is quite low for a peak, lapels wide, button point low, and crossover narrow. It is a slinky almost informal formal look. It’s like a Jean Harlow evening dress, always almost falling off her.

He chooses to wear both boutonnière and hanky. This clutters things up and looks a bit of festooning (but Windsor used to do the same.) There are also some interesting contrasts, very formal black studs mixed with a very informal overall style.

It is a look that would suit few men, but Sexton makes it look grand. He overcomes the obstacle of clothes so very well. And that is the true test of Style.

SQ: 9.0

[uppercase]

The 10th Duke of Beaufort



the suit: a 3 button glenplaid rolled to the top button.
Soft shoulders extend beyond the natural shoulder. A fair amount of drape.
Straight cut; very little waist suppression. Rumpled in the waist below breastpocket. Button pulls. Pattern does not match between chest and sleeves.
Sleeves ironed with a crease.
Closed front quarters. Uneven shirt cuff exposed.
Coat collar sits high on the shirt collar. Coat collar pulling away from the neck/chest.

Cuffed trousers are full cut; no break. Short by today's standard.

the shirt: pencil stripe against a white background. collar cut high on the neck, with tie space.

the tie: a regimental stripe. Tied in what appears a 4 in hand, no dimple.

the shoes: hard to tell. Thick soled. Black oxfords?

accessories: a pocket square, falling down.

grooming: clean shaven. Thinning hair, combed back.

demeanour and effect: a commanding, self confident gaze. A ruddy complexion from weather or drink. Old,yet standing erect, determined. At home: Marble fireplace, dog, standard

IMO: Here is a example of the man wearing the clothes, the clothes disappearing behind the force of the man. The suit is imperfect and not fussed over. Yet the materials are rich, old and appear well worn. The regimental tie anchors everything in tradition. The props of his home support the impression of ancient strength and ownership. Here, we see style through heritage, not artifice. There is nothing sharp, slick or shiny about this ordinary suit...which would not suit the man.
Can a man wear unremarkable clothes and yet be stylish?

SQ: Yes. True style. 10/10

[old henry]

Wow, uppercase..You nailed it.
I am honored and humbled to be on the same forum as you..
This is the guy H.Lesser was made for.
Do you know who made that suit?
Could it be an old Poole ?
I love the suit. FS

[hectorm]

SQ: Yes. True style. 10/10

What a relief to know that, if I ever meet uppercase, after picking me to pieces he will still be able to recognize my true style beyond all the sartorial gaffes.

[alden]

With the amount of drape, the natural, hand sewn shoulder and notch shape...it looks like vintage A&S.

(No break on those trousers...mighty fine!)

Cheers

[robert_n]

One recalls the old saw of dogs matching their owners.

[davidhuh]

IMO: Here is a example of the man wearing the clothes, the clothes disappearing behind the force of the man.

Dear Uppercase,

very entertaining posting, and you nail it with this sentence. Bravo

Looking forward to more of you, very nice thread.

Cheers, David

[NJS]

Quite possibly his father's suit.
NJS

[rodes]

Uppercase, I too agree with your critque. When I first looked at the photo, I was so impressed by the overall composition that the various infractions you rightly point out, escaped notice. Style transcends detail in fine tradition.

[bond_and_beyond]

With the trouser leg being that short, yet full cut, how would this look when the gentleman is walking? Presumably a lot of "flapping" around the ankles?

BB