New suit progress!
The lapels do have a little belly already, but I'll see if I can't give them a little more. Thanks for the suggestion!
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BenedictSpinola
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Shoulders look very good - a very distinctive look overall.
Great work Alias. My compliments to your tailor. Together you have made rapid progress to do so well on only a second suit.
I know how difficult it is to take pictures properly. The second suit looks very well done. You have undertaken to make an older British style 2 button with the higher buttoning point. This 2B model mimics its 3B cousin in a few ways. It is sucessfully done because you have set the notch high on the upper chest where it should be. It's a finesse point but the normal 2 button jacket is best paired with a slightly lower notch placement to insure that the lapels do not look too long and dominate the eye throwing off balance. Conversely, in the 3 button or high button 2, the higher notch point gives enough lapel length to balance the look overall. I suspect my own 2 buttons look alot like yours, given the camera angle that makes it look as it does. Ideally you might have the button point a bit lower and have the lapels roll to the closure point you have assigned to acheive the more closed look you want in a slightly different way. You might try that someday as well.
With respect to the trousers, maybe a 1/4 inch more ease on the right side would cure what looks like a very slight tugging on the pleat.
I look forward to seeing the DB.
Cheers....keep up the good work and thanks for sharing the photos.
I know how difficult it is to take pictures properly. The second suit looks very well done. You have undertaken to make an older British style 2 button with the higher buttoning point. This 2B model mimics its 3B cousin in a few ways. It is sucessfully done because you have set the notch high on the upper chest where it should be. It's a finesse point but the normal 2 button jacket is best paired with a slightly lower notch placement to insure that the lapels do not look too long and dominate the eye throwing off balance. Conversely, in the 3 button or high button 2, the higher notch point gives enough lapel length to balance the look overall. I suspect my own 2 buttons look alot like yours, given the camera angle that makes it look as it does. Ideally you might have the button point a bit lower and have the lapels roll to the closure point you have assigned to acheive the more closed look you want in a slightly different way. You might try that someday as well.
With respect to the trousers, maybe a 1/4 inch more ease on the right side would cure what looks like a very slight tugging on the pleat.
I look forward to seeing the DB.
Cheers....keep up the good work and thanks for sharing the photos.
Thanks everyone! I'll use your input to improve my future projects.
I'll see what I can do to correct the tugging on the trouser pleat.
I'll see what I can do to correct the tugging on the trouser pleat.
The pictures are very nice and the suit fits you extremely well.
What's going to be your next commission?
What's going to be your next commission?
Thanks!cuffthis wrote:The pictures are very nice and the suit fits you extremely well.
What's going to be your next commission?
Next up is a navy db. I mentioned details earlier on in this thread. I read up on Mr. Alden's recommendations on button height and spacing, and pocket height. It looks extremely nice, and I think I should be able to pick it up next Saturday.
Picked up the navy DB. I have good news and bad news.
Good news: This thing is a work of art. Mr. Min and I spent a while admiring the suit while I wore it in the shop. He really outdid himself this time. The buttons are balanced and spaced well (the lower four are in a square, waist button is a touch lower than my natural waist so the lowest two line up with the pockets, or else they would be too high), the buttonholes are VERY well done with the thinnest thread I've seen on a buttonhole, the lapels have a good curve and belly without overpowering my build, the shoulders aren't stuffed with padding but have a good shape, and the 450 g/m Holland & Sherry drapes like a dream.
The bad news: I won't have pictures until the end of this weekend. Sorry guys.
Good news: This thing is a work of art. Mr. Min and I spent a while admiring the suit while I wore it in the shop. He really outdid himself this time. The buttons are balanced and spaced well (the lower four are in a square, waist button is a touch lower than my natural waist so the lowest two line up with the pockets, or else they would be too high), the buttonholes are VERY well done with the thinnest thread I've seen on a buttonhole, the lapels have a good curve and belly without overpowering my build, the shoulders aren't stuffed with padding but have a good shape, and the 450 g/m Holland & Sherry drapes like a dream.
The bad news: I won't have pictures until the end of this weekend. Sorry guys.
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Lookingtoimprove
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Alias wrote:The bad news: I won't have pictures until the end of this weekend. Sorry guys.
Can't wait to see the pictures!
Mark
Yes, I'll be sure to be quick about taking them. Or else Jan will pester me over Google Talk.
Next up is a grey flannel, three-piece. I'm thinking of doing a three-button rolled to two-and-a-half, as Jan and manton had suggested. We drew up a pattern sketch the other day. The lapels will have this sort of curve to the edges, instead of simply bellying. Take a look at that Steed coat Mahon posted on his blog to see what I mean; it's hard to describe in words.
I'm debating on whether to go single or double-breasted with the vest.
Since Mr. Min has demonstrated remarkable ability so far I'm going to challenge him with a 3" pupilla, down .5" from his usual 3.5". We'll discuss other features along the way.
Next up is a grey flannel, three-piece. I'm thinking of doing a three-button rolled to two-and-a-half, as Jan and manton had suggested. We drew up a pattern sketch the other day. The lapels will have this sort of curve to the edges, instead of simply bellying. Take a look at that Steed coat Mahon posted on his blog to see what I mean; it's hard to describe in words.
I'm debating on whether to go single or double-breasted with the vest.
Since Mr. Min has demonstrated remarkable ability so far I'm going to challenge him with a 3" pupilla, down .5" from his usual 3.5". We'll discuss other features along the way.
Indeed!Ok Jan is going to have a fit when he reads this, but I'll have to postpone the complete set of pictures for maybe a couple of weeks. There are some minor kinks in the jacket that I would like to get rectified, among them the left sleeve being 1cm too short. That was my fault. Sometimes you should just listen to your tailor. 
Anyways I went and posted a picture of the front in the Photojournal.
Anyways I went and posted a picture of the front in the Photojournal.
Also, navy blue doesn't seem to photograph too well. Hmm, going to have to find a way around that...
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