What is Bespoke - Giuseppe "Pino" Mancuso

[mmkn2]

Photos and text by Giuseppe “Pino” Mancuso.

Sixty two years of experience with bespoke tailoring and styling.

Core experience between 1955-1966, Milan.


Front and back cut from client’s personal pattern . . .




First fitting, no pockets done . . .





Second Fitting: Lapels are what the client chooses – 70’s style. Front needs adjustment for slight erect posture. Black jacket on mannequin shows a different shape for different client. In good bespoke what is important is how shaping is done – for sure this is not the “uniform” that is what many people wear today. Each suit reflects my client’s taste and personality. That is bespoke.





Erect the back . . .




Third fitting, with my Master Peppi Messina looking on . . .





No should pad as requested . . .




Third Fitting: Sleeve to armhole all sewn by hand. In this jacket I try to apply all I have learned from Peppi Messina . . .




No change. I proceed to finish.










Finishing details . . .




Pressing the armhole . . .




Jacket ready for pick up . . .



Buttonholes done by hand . . .




Pick Up: Happy client. No alteration . . .




Lapel style – 70s




On the wall my Master sees the jacket. I assume he say, “SCECCU e PROSINTOUSO.” (Loosely translate from Sicilian, “A person who knows nothing, but pretends to know everything). But in his heart he is happy to see the continuation of the work he loves.
My master use those words to push me to do better, but by the tone of his words in his heart he is happy with my work.

[robert_n]

Davvero un'opera d'arte. Complimenti. (Anche se per me gli anni '70 non brillano per la moda maschile, devo ammettere che questo abito gli sta benissimo).

[davidhuh]

Very nice coat, Maestro Mancuso!

Thank you for posting this.

David

[Frans]

It is so interesting to be allowed to follow the work in progress. You really put many efforts into it, thank you so much for sharing this, Mr. Mancuso, it is really appreciated

What kind of cloth and lining were used, if I am allowed to ask?

And as you are referring to your old master several times, what do you after all these years consider to be the most difficult part in the bespoke process?

[mmkn2]

In his own words . . .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=p ... Mu4bi1b8p8

- M

[Pssst]

In his own words . . .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=p ... Mu4bi1b8p8

- M

Great stuff, thanks for sharing.

[robert_n]

"old henry" mi confida che Lei merita l'appellativo di maestro artigiano, e non posso dargli torto.

[old henry]

That warms my heart Sir. I love Guisseppi. All should watch your video. How sad for him to say that this might be his last coat. How beautiful for him to say that this work is in Honor to his Old Maestro. Hand sewn shoulder and sleeve. The "Little Boat" breast pocket. That is the most well worked "shirt sleeve shoulder" I have ever seen. He is the last of Old World things. Old World Charm. God Bless Him.

[J.S. Groot]

Thank you for taking your time to share this photographic/video tale of your work and for your thoughts regarding bespoke tailoring. What inspirational craftmansship! The shaping on the jacket as well as the shoulder is truly sublime.

[mmkn2]

That warms my heart Sir. I love Guisseppi. All should watch your video. How sad for him to say that this might be his last coat. How beautiful for him to say that this work is in Honor to his Old Maestro. Hand sewn shoulder and sleeve. The "Little Boat" breast pocket. That is the most well worked "shirt sleeve shoulder" I have ever seen. He is the last of Old World things. Old World Charm. God Bless Him.

Indeed.

He is true to his craft in both the level of creation and the meaning of bespoke (i.e., the 70's lapels requested by his client). He is also the rare tailor who is also an artist.

Although he briefly alluded to the comfort of the blades in the video, his jacket feels like a sweater - achieving the trifecta of client's and tailor's aesthetic, highest level craftsmanship, and comfort in fit.

BTW, jacket is not mine, but another client's.

- M

[robert_n]

@ mmkn2:

I'd be interested to hear what inspired the 70's nostalgia of the client.

[Slewfoot]

Wonderful jacket! Personal aesthetics aside, you can see how nicely it is made and how comfortable it looks.

Does anyone happen to know the specific fabric used? Lovely.

[C.Lee]

Photos and text by Giuseppe “Pino” Mancuso.

...On the wall my Master sees the jacket... by the tone of his words in his heart he is happy with my work.

As am I, the client. Pino is a gem of a man and tailor. His work is wonderful. His words, pictures and videos tell an important story, one which we hold dear to our hearts: that of bespoke. I picture him having fought for all things right all his life, continuing to do so into the future. Sad indeed that he will be moving on, but you can never take the tailor out of the man.

[C.Lee]

The technical and procedural elements of bespoke - fittings, personal pattern, stylistic and fit choices - are captured in the original post. I want to add that from this client's perspective, the bespoke experience was made by the fact that he dealt with the one man who would cut, tailor, fit, finish and service his garment. At the tailor's home, across town. No schedule. Two of Old Henry's phrases capture it perfectly: Old World, and the clock ticks slowly.

Now onto the jacket. The fabric is from a dead stock bolt. All I have to go on is the selvedge which says Royale - Superfine Worsted. Any information members can add here would be appreciated. What I should do is get a piece of Cloth Club fabric in his hands.

As to the 70's style lapels, that description never came out of my mouth . I enjoy a full lapel.

The jacket is indeed comfortable. What would be the alternative?

[Melcombe]

Un capolavoro da un maestro sarto.

Lovely.