Help me with my bespoke selection

[Costi]

I think there is an interesting debate to be had about the effects of soft versus structured tailoring for the larger man. I have never been a fan of excessive drape - to my eye it can make a thin man look as though he lost several pounds after the suit was made. I am not at all sure how it would look on a larger man, who would perhaps benefit from as much shape in the coat as possible. Any good tailor will do his best to hide the truth

Now stand by for a lecture from the gym squad.

Excessive drape can look terrible, no doubt about it.
However, clothes cut close to the body will accentuate any given physique, whether lean or the contrary. A decent bit of fullness will soften the contours in both cases, much to the wearer's advantage.
Also, drape properly applied can actually help create shape. In a coat with no fullness in the chest, you need to take in quite a bit at the waist to create some shape (unless you are naturally blessed with an ideal drop). With a bit of drape in the chest, you get the same effect with a more gentle line and softer transitions (as you start wider at the top and have no need to nip the waist too much), creating a fluid silhouette that also moves more naturally with the body.

[dempsy444]

I recall the knowledgeable Simon Crompton writing that he thought Kent, Haste & Latecher was an excellent shop and maybe the best value near the Row. I believe suits start at 2,400 Pounds. This is roughly around where Steed and Steven Hitcock's suits start in price. I'm sure WW Chan is good but if you are living in London, it would be a shame not to take advantage of the many good tailors there. Why settle for a long distance relationship if you don't have to?

http://kenthastelachter.com/

I would look for the smaller shops off the Row like KH&L or the others mentioned and stay away from the ones on the Row as you will pay well above your budget and endure maybe more marketing than a personal tailor's touch. Having said that, I think Steven Hitchcock is on the Row, who I have read good things about.