How warm is flannel?

What you always wanted to know about Elegance, but were afraid to ask!
Costi
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Sat Sep 22, 2012 12:16 pm

True, Frank, but about the pleasure of feeling a good flannel on your thighs...
Not going to pay for flannel and feel the lining on my legs ;) My boxers are lining enough for the crotch / seat area.
When my trousers make "knees", I just take them to my tailor to be shrunk in that area and brought back into shape.
Rowly
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Sat Sep 22, 2012 12:22 pm

Does any of you gentlemen have any experience with the J&J Minnis "Luxury English Flannel" in 12-13 oz weight? I am considering a dark grey Prince of Wales check for a 3-piece suit I contemplating commissioning.

See the link below for the cloth I am considering (pattern no 0339):
I have lusted after Minnis 0320 mid grey chalk for a db, for some time. The pics on-line fall short of showing the appeal of this cloth. It is a light cosy grey with a lush chalk, and is sumptuous.
The light reflected from the grey is absorbed by the depth and nubbiness in the weave, allowing a lighter grey than normal to be worn. The only problem is the weight...and subsequent heat. If this pattern were available in a 400g, I would not hesitate.

Personally, I would only bespeak a woollen flannel. Instead of a bespoke worsted flannel, I would get a heavy proper worsted with a slightly milled finish. There are plenty of delicate worsted flannels available rtw, and available during sales etc.
I think your choice is excellent. In my opinion, the way to go is with a woollen 400g flannel with an unapologetic stripe to maximise the charm inherent in this classic cloth, and it's wear ability (at this weight).
Ultimately, we all have our own opinions...and that's why it's nice to share ideas. Good luck with it!
old henry
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Sat Sep 22, 2012 12:38 pm

Yes, I must agree with that Costi.. What you are saying is " Let the cloth be what it is ".
As usual.. you make sense. To me, there is nothing better than an old worn Flannel suit.
In the lining of my customers pant, I am thinking ahead for them. Playing it safe..
Were I to make myself a Flannel suit I would do as you say.
As far as JJMinnis Flannel, I am not sure if it is still an English cloth, but my advice is to go heavier than ..12oz...13oz.. Below this is new and unauthentic. This is what I would tell my customer.
I am not sure what Flannel I trust any more.
Rowly
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Sat Sep 22, 2012 1:01 pm

" Let the cloth be what it is ".
Yes Frank, ...the depth of this comment is as appealing as the best of woollen flannels, and should be noted by all! :D
davidhuh
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Sat Sep 22, 2012 1:08 pm

old henry wrote: In the lining of my customers pant, I am thinking ahead for them. Playing it safe..
Were I to make myself a Flannel suit I would do as you say.
As far as JJMinnis Flannel, I am not sure if it is still an English cloth, but my advice is to go heavier than ..12oz...13oz.. Below this is new and unauthentic. This is what I would tell my customer.
I am not sure what Flannel I trust any more.
Dear Frank,

Minnis Flannel is as English as it is. The quality is very good. Fox Flannel is great. London Lounge flannel is better :D
Seconding Costi, I have never had whatever trousers lined.

cheers, David
alden
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Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:27 pm

Minnis Flannel is as English as it is.
The name is certainly English. :D Frank is correct again. That being said, the products of the various Mediterranean mills used vary from above average to good.

Cheers
old henry
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Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:33 pm

I no longer voice my disgust for what has happened to " All Things Good" , Michael, because everyone has a right to earn keep in this world. But I will offer a "wary eye". "A grain of salt", as it were. ps.."above average to good"..? Perfect.

Also..Where the thighs of heavier customers might rub together I would strongly suggest lining the crotch.
{Although Costi does make a lot of sense with his boxers comment.}
This as I have said reduces the friction. The lining slips where the flesh grips and rubs.
Lining the pant does reduce wear. I am speaking as a tailor offering practical options to my customer.
For my self, I side with you David.
Last edited by old henry on Sat Sep 22, 2012 4:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
old henry
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Sat Sep 22, 2012 4:20 pm

ps..Minnis Flannels are made in Spain.
davidhuh
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Sat Sep 22, 2012 5:21 pm

old henry wrote:ps..Minnis Flannels are made in Spain.
By Gorina?
(I'm sorry, I thought to remember having see "made in England" on the label of the last one I bought. But the quality was good.)

cheers, david
rogiercreemers
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Sat Sep 22, 2012 5:37 pm

I recently heard Minnis has ceased all mill activity, they are solely a merchant now.
old henry
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Sat Sep 22, 2012 7:36 pm

This is recent, David.
Your piece was made in England.
There was none better.
davidhuh
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Sat Sep 22, 2012 9:06 pm

old henry wrote:This is recent, David.
Your piece was made in England.
There was none better.
I see. Another tragedy then :evil:
alden
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Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:00 pm

I see. Another tragedy then
The parent company has been teetering on the brink of extiction for the last five or six years. They closed their London offices and tailors became wary of them adding to their problems. The JJ Hardy, Minnis and Fresco lines are a shadow of their former selves.

They have however been astute in using the internet. And the forums are full of chatter about the goods that are costly given the quality.

Cheers
old henry
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Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:55 pm

I cannot wait to grip the new Fox Flannels, Michael.
I have an astounding 27oz Fox Flannel in my shop.
Perhaps one time we can reproduce an old Alsport type thornproof.
The new {JohnG Hardy} is an imposter.
ps..I now keep shop in Lenox Massachusetts.
rogiercreemers
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Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:01 pm

27oz? I didn't realize you were doing military-grade body armour these days... That is proper cloth indeed.
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