For me, the bespoke article with the greatest cost/benefit return is underwear. I have natural, unbleached, non-dyed linen made into boxer shorts, after years of dissatisfaction with off-the-rack versions. Ready-made of high quality can be found, but the elasticized waist makes for a hellish fit. When purchased, the elastic is often tight enough that the shorts ride way up - annoying. As the rubber ages, they sag - annoying. What's more, the rubber invariably perishes before the fabric gives out, and so any economic advantage of choosing ready-wear over bespoke is lost.
Hell in the Pacific, the Borman classic from 1968, offers a vintage solution that has served me well. You can see that the Imperial Japanese Army boxers have a sash-tie (@ 7.29 in this snippet). The don't ride up, and don't fall down.
http://is.gd/kaer1u
One other important point, the sash cord should be fairly loosely woven, so as not to dig into the flesh. I use these nylon, soft, jogging laces, but am only a 32" waist.
http://footcareinternational.com/produc ... ces-white/
For me, changing underwear rather than geography makes Hell in the Pacific now just a good film, and not a day in the life.
Hell in the Pacific, boxers excepted.
Robert_n,
Many thanks for pointing out what should be obvious but is so often over-looked. Another point I'd make to members is that your tailor should be able to make 5-panel boxers which have no seams on the backside, i.e. just at the sides. I find that apart from the overly-elasticised waist which is a curse the next problem is those bulky seams on the garment.
Like a well-fitting shirt, this is another example of the bespoke wardrobe beginning from the best foundations.
Many thanks for pointing out what should be obvious but is so often over-looked. Another point I'd make to members is that your tailor should be able to make 5-panel boxers which have no seams on the backside, i.e. just at the sides. I find that apart from the overly-elasticised waist which is a curse the next problem is those bulky seams on the garment.
Like a well-fitting shirt, this is another example of the bespoke wardrobe beginning from the best foundations.
@ cathach:
Good points. In fact, this is a project for the local, cheap-as-chips seamstress. You'll see no fly, as that only adds to the cost, and from earlier iterations, I found it unnecessary. I've not found the central seam uncomfortable, but I am certain that a more polished version would follow your template. Thanks.
Good points. In fact, this is a project for the local, cheap-as-chips seamstress. You'll see no fly, as that only adds to the cost, and from earlier iterations, I found it unnecessary. I've not found the central seam uncomfortable, but I am certain that a more polished version would follow your template. Thanks.
Robert_n,
As a matter of interest can you tell us how many boxers or undershirts you got from your meterage (aka yardage) of linen?
As a matter of interest can you tell us how many boxers or undershirts you got from your meterage (aka yardage) of linen?
@ cathatch:
Sorry, i've been less than systematic about my ordering. I basically just take any amount on hand and give it to the seamstress (though I get the remnants back for lint-free rags) with the idea that she make whatever she can.
The T-shirts I find more comfortable than cotton, even though the one photographed is an 11 oz fabric from Libeco ("Plum Frost").
Sorry, i've been less than systematic about my ordering. I basically just take any amount on hand and give it to the seamstress (though I get the remnants back for lint-free rags) with the idea that she make whatever she can.
The T-shirts I find more comfortable than cotton, even though the one photographed is an 11 oz fabric from Libeco ("Plum Frost").
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