Going Bespoke

[Gilles Deleuze]

Go for it and enjoy, you'll love it!

I second that advice

By the way, I wonder how the Graham Browne suit has worn?

Quite well, thank you for asking! I presume you're referring to my charcoal Lesser 13oz. I love the cloth, and I had GB make me up a one-button SB suit in a Smith Botany navy that, frankly, came out wonderful. I like it even more than the Lesser, and it has helped me to discover that my preference in suit colors lies with navy. I'm having a DB made up in Lesser's 13oz navy pin-dot cloth this October.

I'm definitely going with the flannel for my winter suit, though. I'm still a bit unsure whether the 17oz Fox cloth might just be too heavy for my needs, but it looks like there are some great 14oz Minnis flannels out there. Their mid gray looks nice, but unfortunately their blue/navy flannels do not come out very well in the online pictures. If anyone has seen them, feel free to share your thoughts!

PS. I realize I probably shouldn't get every suit made in navy. Although I am reminded of the gentleman in the recent A+S book (I forget who) who, if I recall correctly, had a closet full of navy suits...

[Concordia]

Minnis will work if you really like heavy flannel. They also have a selection of navy and RAF blues, although I've never been completely sold on them. Minnis also has a range of flannels one notch lighter than the 13/14oz. They are less interesting in texture, but much more practical in warmth and thickness for city suits.

For more medium-weight navy flannels, you will find more to play with in the Smiths book (which has nearly nothing, but is all beautiful), Lesser Golden Bale (no idea what the new books look like, but worth a look), or the A&S house specials.

[Gilles Deleuze]

Minnis will work if you really like heavy flannel. They also have a selection of navy and RAF blues, although I've never been completely sold on them. Minnis also has a range of flannels one notch lighter than the 13/14oz. They are less interesting in texture, but much more practical in warmth and thickness for city suits.

For more medium-weight navy flannels, you will find more to play with in the Smiths book (which has nearly nothing, but is all beautiful), Lesser Golden Bale (no idea what the new books look like, but worth a look), or the A&S house specials.

Is 14oz really that heavy for a flannel? I do live in Providence, where we get genuine wintry weather, but obviously I will also be in heated buildings. I just worry that a step down in weight is also a step down in durability, which I would like to maximize if possible...

[davidhuh]

Dear Justin,

my advice is simple: get swatches from Minnis, get the LL swatches from Fox and decide. Minnis has excellent flannels, no doubt - I had some trousers made of their cloth.

The LL flannels come from a different planet though. Do not worry about cloth weight. Make sure you have little to no padding and a light floating canvas - which I am sure A & S will do anyway.

cheers, david

[rodes]

Gilles,
I live in western Pennsylvania,which I suspect is slightly cooler than Rhode Island. Last year I commissioned a DB suit from the Minnis air force blue, 14 ounce flannel. The color is just a touch lighter than true navy and I love it. The weight is excellent and I suspect that a few ounces more could well be even more so. Either way you cannot go wrong with flannel for winter. It is ever warm and stylish.

[rodes]

Dr. Gilles,
Forgive me for not congratulating you on the new job. What will you wear on those graduation days after you remove your robe? Now you'll have to start planning for the warm weather stroller.

[Gilles Deleuze]

Dr. Gilles,
Forgive me for not congratulating you on the new job. What will you wear on those graduation days after you remove your robe? Now you'll have to start planning for the warm weather stroller.

Well, thank you very much! At the moment, I'm just trying to get through my first year on the job without worrying too much about the book I have to write... I'll let you know about that stroller in due course.

I'm intrigued by that RAF blue flannel--the color comes out quite poorly on Minnis's website. As long as it's not too blue, if you know what I mean, I may have to consider it!

Of course, I would like another grey suit at some point, lest I be known around campus and in my academic subfield as "that guy in the nice navy suit!" One I particularly liked was a light/mid-grey I saw in the A+S book, made up in a DB suit worn by a French perfumer, if memory serves. I may have to write to them to see if they can track down the cloth for me...

[Concordia]

They have some grey flannels in their house collection that are quite delicious. Mid-weight, from Fox. I got a SB (3/2.5) in one of them that will see action this fall.

[hectorm]

I'm intrigued by that RAF blue flannel--the color comes out quite poorly on Minnis's website. As long as it's not too blue, if you know what I mean, I may have to consider it!

Dear Gilles,
J&J Minnis 14.5 oz flannel is a great cloth but their Air Force blue is (in the swatch) definitely darker than azure, almost navy I would say.

[bjs]

my advice is simple: get swatches from Minnis, get the LL swatches from Fox and decide.

I'd second this. I'm currently considering getting my first flannel suit and have just received some swatches including some from Minnis. I think the Minnis website provides a sometimes mis-leading impression of the true colour. For example, the blue chalk-stripe looks fairly "standard" on screen but in the flesh has a lovely grey tinge to it quite unlike any of the other blue flannel swatches I got. It also feels substantial and, as you'd expect, has plenty of surface interest. That said, it's 14oz and, given that I'm a frequent user of the tube in London, I think I may overheat in this even in Winter so I'm probably going to go for the 11oz mid-grey flannel from Smiths which I think I'll get more use out of.

Btw, I also got some flannel swatches from the Lumbs Golden Bale book and the Harrisons book and they somehow feel stiffer and less luxurious than the Smiths or Minnis, even at 14-15oz weight.

[alden]

The LL flannels come from a different planet though.

David

I am glad you said this so I do not have to. The Fox cloth is a completely different animal. It is made in the UK, at a historic English mill, according to an authentic traditional recipe. And as for the designs, well you guys will have to tell me what you think.

Five more designs are on their way to be photographed. Stay tuned.

Cheers