Linen instead of cotton as basic shirting

[Berwick]

I too will have to try the LL linen shirting. I wonder if there is any prospect of a blue and white stripe?

Striped linen of any quality is very difficult to come by, and I notice the linen suitings are in a number of check patterns.

[alden]

Your wish is my command Berwick



I think this simple stripe is one of the most useful designs for a shirt made.

Cheers

[Berwick]

Excellent! I will need to get some when the time comes.

[cathach]

Is it possible to have a linen alergy? I have been wearing two recenlty commissioned linen shirts and they are not as comfortable as cotton.

The fabric is from Grandi & Rubinelli

Its hard to tell at this remove but what I would suggest is that new linen has a tactile sensation when worn next to the skin, it can be unusual or give a slight prickly feeling if you're not used to it. This will change as its washed and worn. In contrast cotton in humid weather will cloy and stick to the skin.

[rrosals]

Is it possible to have a linen alergy? I have been wearing two recenlty commissioned linen shirts and they are not as comfortable as cotton.

The fabric is from Grandi & Rubinelli

Its hard to tell at this remove but what I would suggest is that new linen has a tactile sensation when worn next to the skin, it can be unusual or give a slight prickly feeling if you're not used to it. This will change as its washed and worn. In contrast cotton in humid weather will cloy and stick to the skin.

Thank you. They have only been washed once so hopefully the performance will improve over time.

[Concordia]

And today my linen and linen/cotton shirts arrived from Ascot Chang-- one of which I wore to dinner just to be sure that they had the measurements right. Although the fabric looks and will probably wear a hair less well than Alden's creations, it is still a lovely thing to have in this burst of late-summer humidity. All the more reason to look forward to the LL book.

[alden]

My house in the country has limestone walls that are a meter thick. This natural insulation keeps the house cool in summer and warm in winter.

Linen has the same natural insulating properties. It keeps one cool in hot, humid weather; and it also, as I discovered this winter, is warmer than cotton in cold weather. And all of the above, with that wonderful sensation on the skin thay comes from well broken in linen.

Cheers

[lxlloyd]

100 percent linen is actually thought to help with skin diseases. I know there were some researchers who found that its bacteriological properties mean that it is a barrier to growth. It's actually one of the safer fibres in terms of allergies; often it's used as an anti-allergenic fabric for home furnishings I know.


The science backs up Michael's observance that linen has natural insulating properties. It's due to the absorbency of the fibre itself; you can actually see it in the workings of the plant itself... the diameter of the stem can be stretched from 2 to 10 mm and it transports water very efficiently. This is observable in the fabric itself because you can soak a piece in water and still will not feel completely wet (I think it can contain up to 40 percent before it feels saturated).

When wearing linen in the summer, the fabric can absorb sweat without becoming moist and then wick the moisture away. It continues to be breathable since it can hold this much moisture without becoming wet or heavy. This is why it is known for being a summer fabric.

But actually it is a superior winter fabric as well.... the fibres are able to close up tightly and push out moisture, locking in heat and warmth. I had a friend whose mother did an arctic exploration (Indeed so did my friend George) and they wear linen underwear and outershirts. It is stronger, warmer and will last longer than a plastic layer (100 percent french linen). Although it is true synthetic materials can be marvelous with the technologies nowadays... I know that Masters of Linen (I think it was them) were actually working with some scientists and microcapsules to make fabrics that can release either perfumes or compounds that absorb nitrates when worn so that you actually CLEAN the air around you. It is interesting to note that linen fibres can be employed in such a high tech way, just using their most basic properties (they transport the moisture to the capsules and then the moisture into the atmosphere with the solutions). I've seen some crazy things done with linen...

[alden]

The science backs up Michael's observance that linen has natural insulating properties.

LX,

Another very interesting post. I discovered the warming properties of linen accidentally this winter. One morning I got up very early to get goods from the local baker (warm fresh out of the oven croissants.) I grabbed a shirt and threw it on stumbling in the dark and put a thick camelhair sweater (another luxury) on over. When I stepped outside it was almost snowing and I thought to go back and get a coat, but the croissant aroma was too strong and I had a short brisk walk to my destination. I noticed the warmth almost immediately. It was a wonderful dry warmth, like the kind you feel from burning well seasoned wood in a cast iron stove. When I got back home I noticed I was wearing one of my new (test) linen shirts. I kept it on the rest of the day and went out for some longer walks. Then I changed to a cotton shirt to see the difference. I was noticeably cooler in the cotton and especially on my skin. Over the following days I wore almost exclusively linen and after that decided to make the change. And since linen shirts work well with the way I dress, so it was all goodness.

Having read your report on linen, it all makes perfect sense to me now.

Cheers

Michael

[hectorm]

The science backs up Michael's observance that linen has natural insulating properties. When wearing linen in the summer....
But actually it is a superior winter fabric as well...

I wonder if linen would make also a good winter cloth for suits. So far I have considered it only for summer suits due mainly to its open weave and casual texture. If we weaved a tight 15 oz. linen cloth, who knows, it could be warmer than flannel. But it feels so cool to the touch..... the first step for me will be trying it as winter shirting and I will wait to Michaels´s new product for that.

By the way, may I bring up that the word lining has its origin in the word linen since the cloth was used in old times as the second inner layer of refined garments.
Such a versatile fiber, white linen is also the cloth of Bible angels (and of mummies too).

[internationalist]

I have found this:
http://www.webflakes.com/fashion/bonne- ... mer-part-1
Personally, I advise against linen. Yes, it is light and it absorbs water like a sponge; unless you are wearing a revolutionary deodorant, you will spend the day with marks under the arms as soon as you break into a sweat.

[kamil]

This is a good one, too:
The t-shirts
If it’s hot, you will need a different one every day.
Until now, I thought it normal to change t-shirts every day regardless of the weather. An overkill, apparently

[internationalist]

I have found this:
http://www.webflakes.com/fashion/bonne- ... mer-part-1
Personally, I advise against linen. Yes, it is light and it absorbs water like a sponge; unless you are wearing a revolutionary deodorant, you will spend the day with marks under the arms as soon as you break into a sweat.

A bump for this one too. I am really interested in your opinions.

[Concordia]

Silly fashion writing. No harm, but no need to pay attention, either.

[internationalist]

Silly fashion writing. No harm, but no need to pay attention, either.

Could be. Then I would be interested in some solid writing on the characteristics of linen and comparison to cotton.

My slightly related two recent posts:
http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 707#p71707
http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 708#p71708