Going Bespoke

[Costi]

Thank you, Miguel and Michael, for your kind words
When we have clothes made through the bespoke process, it is good to be aware of our bodies' peculiarities: how tall we are, how thin, how well built, how wide the shoulders are, how big the head, how narrow the heaps... But clothes are just instruments of Dress: we never wear a jacket, a shirt or a pair of shoes by themselves. Our garments, accessories, shoes need to be able to speak to each other, to share a common language, to be of the same family. They need a common denominator. And when they are worn by a breathing, moving, living being, their voice (singular at the time of conception and making) becomes part of a choir. When they are made, clothes must go well with our body. When they are worn, they need to complement our movements, our gestures, our posture, our way of walking; our regard, not the colour of our eyes; our smile and countenance and expression, not our complexion. On the hanger, they are but inanimate garments... WE breathe life into clothes when we WEAR them, and that is in the spirit of Style. We should bear this in mind when we commission or buy clothes, along with the cloth, fit and tailoring issues.
Style is personal, but not subjective. It is real, not imaginary - though we cannot touch it and we have a hard time telling what it is. Sometimes it seems easier to say what it is NOT. It is an objective quality, since we see it in various forms in many people - in that sense, it is inter-personal: it is shared by those who decide to tap into it. And being so, it is trans-personal, in that it has an existence of its own: we are just mirrors reflecting more or less of it, according to the purity of the silver backing and of how clean we keep the glass. Why paint the sky and the sun on our windows with thick layers when all we need to do is let the light of day come through unobstructed? Some of us decide that the painted sun and sky is "stylish" and continue to add layers of paint when any crack appears. But all we need is a clear glass and some inspiration to manifest Style in our lives. Our bespoke wardrobes need to be conceived in the clear light of day so we can have Style wearing them.

[Gilles Deleuze]

Hi folks! I thought I would return to my own thread since I'm in London and it's been about 10 days since I visited Graham Browne for my first suit (Russell was excellent and very patient with me, I might add). In the end, I decided to keep it pretty simple. After going over my (intentionally vague) requests for what I was looking for, Russell had me try on a number of jackets in different weights to get a feel for where my comfort range might be. I was surprised to find that the 13 oz cloths weren't as heavy as I had expected; on the contrary, I was quite comfortable in them.

So, in the end I went for a lighter charcoal from the Lesser 13 oz book (29746, if you're keeping score at home). It has a slightly mottled appearance and, to me, looked warmer and more inviting than the other, darker charcoals in the book. We took the swatch outside and in the natural light the cloth had appealing surface interest and was just what I was looking for--dressy and conservative, but with a bit of character. The suit will be a two-button with straight pockets and notch lapels. I also went with cuffs on the trousers, a single pleat (since I like a slightly fuller trouser, even though I'm rather slim), and we decided the suit would be more "military" and structured in style since my shoulders slope quite a bit and we felt this style would best flatter my physique.

We're hoping to have a first fitting relatively soon, since I told Russell about my time frame and he said he could move my projects up in the queue accordingly so that everything would be done in time and so that I'd have time to properly evaluate this suit before commissioning more. I'll try to drag a friend to the fitting so we can get some pictures taken.

All in all, I'm quite pleased and excited! I even earmarked a very nice, rich navy swatch from Smith's Botany book that I anticipate using for my navy suit in the near future.

[Gilles Deleuze]

Gentleman, I wanted to follow up on my own thread to solicit humbly your opinions on a winter suit I would like to have made in the relatively near future. I've taken a job up in New England, and since we have fairly cold and long winters up here, I think it's only appropriate that I have a suit made that is best suited (sorry--horrible pun) for the late fall and through the long winter chill.

I'm excited to start building a winter/fall wardrobe, but here is the main question I'm asking myself: should this first winter suit be a heavyweight worsted or a flannel? (I do have other, mid-weight suits to wear as well...)

I admit that I've had my eye on a lovely navy herringbone from the Lesser 16oz book. There's certainly nothing "wrong" with this cloth--quite the contrary, in fact--but I wonder if I could opt for a flannel since as a cloth it's more obviously interesting and, well, fuzzy. Which is nice, since as an academic I don't need to dress in the most formal-looking suits at all times.

However, is flannel simply not durable enough to be the first suit in my winter wardrobe? I would only be wearing it once a week, at most, but I hate the idea of having a nice suit made that I might have to replace in a couple years. Am I overstating the durability problems with, say, a 14oz flannel from the Fox book? Would the 16-oz Lesser be a better buy for the long term?

I should say that I do like the flannels I've heard about in Michael's book, but I wonder if 17oz flannel might be too warm for me, even during a chilly New England winter.

I know so many members of this forum just love the "character" of good flannel cloth, but is there something to be said with starting with a worsted? Thanks in advance for any thoughts you might be able to send my way!

Justin

[davidhuh]

I think it's only appropriate that I have a suit made that is best suited (sorry--horrible pun) for the late fall and through the long winter chill.
(...)

I'm excited to start building a winter/fall wardrobe, but here is the main question I'm asking myself: should this first winter suit be a heavyweight worsted or a flannel? (I do have other, mid-weight suits to wear as well...)

Justin

Dear Justin,

if I understand you right, you are starting to build a wardrobe. In that case, start with the worsted (blue & grey) and wait with the flannels until you have 3-5 decent worsted in your closet.

I agree the flannels have more personality and character - I had two made up once the worsted were done, a third is in the pipeline. However, what you need first is the worsted work horses. I have recently taken my first Lesser 16 ozs - and I am in love with this suit. Incredible cloth, go for it

cheers, david

[Gilles Deleuze]

Dear David,

Thanks so much for your thoughts! I should mention that, strictly in terms of suits, I already have 3 13oz worsted suits and have an appointment with A+S for October to take measurements for my 4th--a navy DB, which I couldn't be more excited about.

Does this change your answer at all?

[Concordia]

The A&S DB cut will somewhat take the edge off Lesser's worsteds, which can be very serious and urbane.

While you're in the shop, do also look at their house flannels-- and house worsteds, too, for that matter. No matter the look you want, you'll find much to please you.

Assuming this is for the work week, what sort of work will you be doing?

[Gilles Deleuze]

Well, I'm an academic, so I'd be wearing the suit to teach, to give a talk, to go to a faculty meeting...or to go out for drinks. Since I don't have a dress code, per se, I'm free to wear the suit whenever/wherever I like.

The question is, now that I've got 3 worsteds and another (the DB) in the works, should this next, fifth suit for the winter be a heavyweight worsted workhorse or a charming flannel?

[Concordia]

Sounds as if you could be ready for a flannel. But go with your heart.

And if you need more stuffing in the wardrobe to give the suits a rest, a tweed jacket or two will cover pretty much all your needs.

[alden]

Well, I'm an academic, so I'd be wearing the suit to teach, to give a talk, to go to a faculty meeting...or to go out for drinks. Since I don't have a dress code, per se, I'm free to wear the suit whenever/wherever I like.

Sounds like you have the work environment particularly conducive to elegant dress. I would focus on the more interesting fabrics: flannel, tweed and linen. A 17 ozs flannel will not be too warm in New England, expect in Summer.

As far as worsted goes, I have a dear friend, an entreprenuer, whose weeks work schedule might read like this: Sao Paolo, Paris, back to Sao Paolo, HK and then Shangai. He wears worsteds and he swears by the LL Mistral cloth for his many travels. He wears the LL tweeds, flannels and linens on the weekend.

Cheers

[davidhuh]

Dear David,

Thanks so much for your thoughts! I should mention that, strictly in terms of suits, I already have 3 13oz worsted suits and have an appointment with A+S for October to take measurements for my 4th--a navy DB, which I couldn't be more excited about.

Does this change your answer at all?

Dear Justin,
I hear you - you have 3 worsted already, but 13oz, and I don't know which cloth. You could have some fun and make a flannel, indeed. On the other hand, a navy DB is a wardrobe staple, and if you don't have one already, go for it and plan the flannel next time.

I was a bit reluctant using a 16oz cloth (my first worsted was a 14oz). I was proven wrong. There will be Lesser 16oz and LL Mistral, nothing else in the future; where I live, I can wear such suits for 7-8 months every year. I have not made up the recent dark blue Mistral yet, but the cloth feels and looks very nice.

Hm - I just realise I said "nothing else in the future". I mean as work horse cloth. There will be more flannels (at least 40 ), there will be more tweed (LL only), there will be more linen (LL mostly)

cheers, David

[Costi]

Were I in your shoes and with all these beautiful LL flannels just out, there would not be a shadow of doubt in my mind...
Being prudent is fine, but remember we don't live forever. Don't postpone life's joys and pleasures when you don't really have to. Enjoy your privileges!

[T.K.]

I tend to agree, with three to four mid weight suits already at your disposal and given the relaxed 'dress code' you mention there is nothing keeping you from ordering a flannel suit. I got my first one last year and have worn it through part of fall and through the entire winter about two times a week without signs of wear or aging so far. The other suit I got was a 15 ozs worsted from the PB universal book. It has been this suit that has brought me closer to myself and made me appreciate worsted suiting just a bit more than anything woolen. External conditions (weather, milieu, wardrobe) are important aspects of the consideration. As important is knowing what makes you feel you under these conditions.

[Gilles Deleuze]

Dear all,

Thanks very much for such thoughtful advice! It's true that I have sort of fallen for a 16oz navy herringbone from the Lesser book, but I think my heart always wanted flannel and I thought I somehow had to start with a worsted as a first suit for winter. However, I think that I'd like to take advantage of my position and the fact that I have relative freedom over what I choose to wear, in which case I'll be choosing something that has a little more obvious personality. I won't be wearing it frequently enough to wear it out quickly.

I admit that I'm still a bit scared of 17oz flannel, thinking that it might be a bit too hot, but if Michael and others think it should be fine for a Rhode Island winter, then I think I can give it a shot! I'm hoping there are a couple more "Eden in Paris"-style cloths in Michael's Fox book, because if I'm going to take advantage of the fact that I can wear whatever I want, then, frankly, I really want a suit like that!

[Costi]

Gilles, all the good reasons in the world...
Go for it and enjoy, you'll love it!

[Frans]

Go for it and enjoy, you'll love it!

I second that advice

By the way, I wonder how the Graham Browne suit has worn?