Bespoke shoes in Warsaw - Januszkiewicz

[hectorm]

When I went to Vass, I found the Old Viennas more elegant than the Budapesters. And I had already two pairs of those made up by another maker (with mixed results). I would reconsider a pair of Budapesters now, either Vass RTW (his MTO is not very convincing in terms of customer service, and I'm not often enough in Budapest) or from another maker

IMO, one of the big limitations with Budapesters is that they can never be bespoke shoes. The original Budapester model conforms to a very small range of lasts, of which you can only change some measurements and choose the leather. If you have your own last made by a shoemaker (unless your feet are straight, wide, and thick) the shoe following your last (probably curvier and flatter) will irremediably veer away from a Budapester towards just another brogue wingtip derby with thick sole. Maybe more elegant and more comfortable, but not a true Budapester.
When I visited Vass, the lady who helped me passed along a very similar message: there was no real need for full bespoke service when it came to Budapesters. Yes, if I insisted, they would make one to my measurements with a narrower last (your 3636 I believe) and with the leather I wanted, and even with Vibran sole. But the original model was already comfortable with a roomy toe cap, and with the open lacing it would surely fit my feet.

[davidhuh]

Dear Hectorm,

IMO, one of the big limitations with Budapesters is that they can never be bespoke shoes. The original Budapester model conforms to a very small range of lasts, of which you can only change some measurements and choose the leather.

I see - I was not aware of this limitation.

Yes, if I insisted, they would make one to my measurements with a narrower last (your 3636 I believe) and with the leather I wanted, and even with Vibran sole. But the original model was already comfortable with a roomy toe cap, and with the open lacing it would surely fit my feet.

Indeed, they did the 3636 for me.

cheers, david

[MTM]

Beautiful shoes. Thank you for posting them. Their maker is a treasure. I hope he has been training others.

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

Thanks to Mr. Kamil. for introduce this master.
Very good work. Please it is possible to have is address?
I look for good artisan who do M.T.M. shoes.
My best regards
Pino

[kamil]

http://januszkiewicz.chmielna.waw.pl/ (address & phone # are at the top of the page)
Please note that Januszkiewicz does not speak English so you may want to use a Polish-speaking interpretor
Map: https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF& ... 52147a916f

[kamil]

Here is the latest addition to my collection. These navy full brogues by TJ were made on the same last as the previous pair that I had commissioned with him in No. 8 shell cordovan. To add a little variety, I asked for contrasting stitching and a medallion on the heel. Apart from a misunderstanding regarding the details of the stitching, I am generally quite pleased with the result, though the shoes take a bit too long to break in.
I can envisage them complementing the city gunclub jacket with all these shades of blues and browns (look at the laces!)

[davidhuh]

Dear Kamil,

congratulations! Very, very hot

cheers, David

[hectorm]

Very nice pair of shoes and very unique color indeed. Congratulations.
Since those are bespoke and you seem to have a very good relation with Mr. Januszkiewicz: did you talk to him regarding the second row of stitches parallel to the upper broguing next to the laces on the inside of the right shoe? It shows clearly in the first and the third pictures and I thought they shouldn't be there. It could be something done on purpose (it's impossible to see it on the left shoe) or a minor imperfection that adds charm to a bench made shoe.

[kamil]

hectorm - no, this is not another row of stitching. It is actually residue of glue that was not fully removed from the bruguing. A little sloppy, yes, but somehow I couldn't be bothered to do something about it, especially as it is hardly visible from a "natural" distance.

[J.S. Groot]

Very nice shoes, indeed. I am considering a trip to Warsaw to have shoes made as well, although I will probably go to Kielman.

[hectorm]

........ it is hardly visible from a "natural" distance.

Yes, you´re right. I only noticed that detail when I zoomed the image in. Such a nice pair of shoes deserved a closer inspection.
Following my experience with navy shoes, I bet you that they become true blue only at midday outdoors. At night or indoors is a mysterious color with changing shades. No doubt it´s a pair that adds diversity to any collection.
Giving their full brogue, tone and natural stitching around the welt I can picture myself wearing them handsomely with mustard, zaffron or maroon wide wale cords. Medium grey heavy flannels wouldn´t be bad either.
Enjoy!

[bengal-stripe]

......regarding the second row of stitches parallel to the upper broguing next to the laces on the inside of the right shoe? It shows clearly in the first and the third pictures and I thought they shouldn't be there. It could be something done on purpose (it's impossible to see it on the left shoe) or a minor imperfection that adds charm to a bench made shoe.

I presume you are referring to that additional row of stitching:



It is used on Oxford-laced shoes to keep the tongue in place and centred. English bespoke shoes use that feature frequently, here in a pair of Gaziano-Girling bespoke.



It is rare in ready-to-wear, Edward Green uses, it John Lobb does not.

I can’t recall, having that feature ever seen in continental shoes. MaybeJanuskiewicz uses it routinely, I wouldn’t know.
It certainly is there intentionally.

Rolf

[hectorm]

It is used on Oxford-laced shoes to keep the tongue in place and centred.

Thank you Rolf. Living and learning....
I have at least one pair of RTW oxfords that would benefit from that feature. No problem with bespokes, though.

[kamil]

bengal-stripe, you clearly should have chosen a different nick, viz. hawk-eye . It is only now, I admit, that I noticed this additional stitch. And yes, it is done identically on both shoes. I do like it now that you discovered it for me - it is discreetly ornamental and only visible from a very short distance.

[kamil]

Bengal-stripe, when I collected a new pair of oxfords from Januszkiewicz last week, I asked him about the extra row of stitching. Sure enough, he told me it was designed to keep the tongue in place and centred
Here are some pictures of the recent addition to my shoe collection. This time, it's nothing fancy, just a classic black cap-toe. The only little extravagant accent is the metal plate on the sole.