How would I achieve this style (picture inside)

[Roberto Duran]

I intend to start my first venture into bespoke suits this weekend and this picture is probably the closest to what I had in mind for myself. Now, the picture isn't of great quality nor is it taken at the most suitable angle, but I'd like to be able to use it as a reference point. This is possibly too broad a question but what are the most pertinent facets of this shape and what should I ask for? I have other suits in mind from which to draw inspiration but this is the one i'm having the most trouble breaking down. The trousers are high of course and it seems as if the shoulder is somewhat "roped". The lapels are on the medium to larger size (compared to the most modern slim fashions) and the pointed waistcoat seems appropriate.

In short, given that I very much like this suit what can I draw from the picture (if anything) to help me achieve a similar shape and does anyone here, by any chance, actually have this book?

Thanks for any insights.

[old henry]

Dear, "Hands of Stone"
Wow.. I love that suit and I must get this book. Good luck having this suit sculpted in this day and age. This coat is cut very "quick" Not tight. This pattern has tricks and darts and just the right fullness and shaping in just the right places to allow it to move with the wearer. Very high "fitted" armholes. Balanced and fitted and cut so as never to stray from the neck. Beautifully piped sleeves. What a work of craft. I love Italian tailors. If I were to attempt this style I would have to have the customer practically live in my shop so as to whittle and hone. But I said style, and where this work has style as a byproduct, it is a actually a very very high level of the tailor craft. That is what your eye is drawn to. That is what is so striking. Style has happened here. Thats all. No one set out to make this work "stylish" or "elegant". Both come from "practical function". This is a very high level of "practical function" No "drape" no "shoulder affect".No unnecessary cloth. You will feel this coat on you. Moving with you. Working with you. You will know that this coat was made just for you. ....IF... you can get it made. You should watch The Godfather II when Vito Corleone [DiNiro] goes back to Sicily to revenge his mother.

[voxsartoria]

Old Henry, are we talking weeks or months to live in your shop?

There is a liquor:time ratio in such things.

[old henry]

Hmmm.. Two weekend visits to the beautiful Finger Lakes wine country and a bolt of Old H.Lesser 10oz goods..
I have customers squeeze in 3 fittings on the first visit to nail the pattern and first fitting
and to proceed to the second fitting for 2nd visit. For current customers I
require only one visit. This project, however, would take some extra time.
I could have no time constraints. This level of Old World craft would not tolerate a time ratio.
And I would need an understanding customer to work with me. This is much the same formula as Mr. Alden uses for his Sartorial Vacations. His tailors, I know, could accomplish close to this.
Again... Watch The Godfather II.

[old henry]

Also, please see the Don Fanucci suit in GFII.

[Roberto Duran]

Is this the suit you were taking about henry?







not this one obviously (from boardwalk empire).

[old henry]

Yes that DiNero suit is my favorite suit EVER. Look at the proper point to point. Rope shoulder.
A true hand sewn sleeve would never be pressed open.
The wardrobe for Boardwalk Empire was done by Martin Greenfield.
He did a great job.

Thank you RD

[workwear dandy]

Roberto, i suspect that what you're being drawn to most in that photo is the very slim arm and neat narrow shoulder. the shoulder would have very little or no padding; your shoulder goes into the top part of the sleeve to fill it out, something that most tailors today would swear is 'incorrect'. as already noted the chest will be very clean with no drape, and that particular jacket probably has a long straight front closure similar to these these suits from the late teens:



the jacket would be very fitted down to its high waist then the 'skirt' would flare out slightly.

the suits above are more 'workaday' suits, probably in serge and not as dressy as your example. this one is similar, a touch later, a DB with a very narrow wrap:



basically you're looking at a late teens - early 20s suit.

[workwear dandy]

i also don't think that the shoulders on that suit would have a strong rope as in the De Niro example. they might have more fullness than the first suits i posted above, but more likely would resemble this...

[old henry]

Work Wear, you are correct about the shoulder into the sleeve.
A true "Rope" is not pressed open. Also a hand sewn is not pressed.

[pur_sang]

Work Wear, you are correct about the shoulder into the sleeve.
A true "Rope" is not pressed open. Also a hand sewn is not pressed.

What do you mean when you say it is 'not pressed open'?

The back of the De Niro suit is amazing.

[old henry]

Are not those suits beautiful ? The Rubinacci at top is the ultimate in elegance and style from fit. The elegant beauty of these suits is from the practicality of the cut. Trim, high armhole, piped sleeves, no excess of cloth for "style".
On a rope sleeve head ( the way I was taught and believe is the best) is to not press the sleeve seam open where it is sewn to the shoulder but to leave the seam closed. This gives a very sharp, clean rope when the sleeve wadding is sewn in. And you will not see the shoulder part of the seam pressed over but a clean shoulder going right into the sleeve head. Iwill post photos on my blog.