Black tie affairs

[Incroyable]

Indeed, much of dinner dress is assembled in pursuit of an illusion. In this illusion, buttons are always made of precious stones and metals, shirts are made entirely of exotic and impractical cloths, gentlemen wear extravagant sashes knotted about their waists, and shoes are always perfectly shined. The intrusions of civilian clothing--or of practical gestures like removing one's jacket, or nervously checking the time-- on this fantasy are jarring in the extreme.

I should not think that in daily life one's shoes cannot be perfectly shined? I even take a practice to shine the soles of my shoes.

As well, it seems that the usage of precious materials on the buttons would have its ancestors in the 18th century court costumes.

[Incroyable]

A young and very elegant young friend of mine is fond of saying that good taste is the mirror image of common sense. Your description of the rationale of leaving one’s wristwatch at home in formal occasions is a perfect example.

One doesn't often see young and elegant in a being. Rather lovely, that.

[TVD]

Actually, precious metals were used as long as buttons exist. And I really do not know when those appeared. Brooches / pins were used before.

During medieval times strict rules governed the dress of different social strata in most European countries. Fur for example could only be worn by nobles. And equally, the use of precious metals and gems for buttons was restricted to the nobility or certain dignitaries.

By the by, thanks for the illustrations. The early 19th century portrait shows the use of the watch chain that is only attached to the watch, but not a waistcoat buttonhole.

[BirdofSydney]

I wonder, is it appropriate to wear a (pocket) watch when hosting such a function, in order to allow one to ensure that all is proceeding according to schedule?

Best,

E

[Incroyable]

Actually, precious metals were used as long as buttons exist. And I really do not know when those appeared. Brooches / pins were used before.

During medieval times strict rules governed the dress of different social strata in most European countries. Fur for example could only be worn by nobles. And equally, the use of precious metals and gems for buttons was restricted to the nobility or certain dignitaries.

By the by, thanks for the illustrations. The early 19th century portrait shows the use of the watch chain that is only attached to the watch, but not a waistcoat buttonhole.

Yes, rather. However, the general usage of jewelled buttons had its traditions in the 18th century courts. In the Renaissance many elaborate pins and other bits were used. In the 18th century things were simplified slightly.

You are quite welcolme. I believe that was the intent of a seperate watch fob, however they are rarely seen these days. Very rare to purchase a silk fob as well.

[Rudolf]

May I just add a picture of a typical 1920s dress watch from my own collection. It was made by the Illinois Watch Co. of Springfield, Ill. from 14k white gold with a silver striped dial and applied gold letters:

One can see the original watch chain with enamel applications accompagnying it.
All of the dress watches of the 1920 to 40s were open face, mostly 12 size (about 40mm diameter of the movement), slim in appearance (the Gruen Watch Co. in the 1930s sported a model called 'ultra very thin', made in Switzerland) and preferably in white gold or platinum (for the less wealthy: white or yellow gold filled). There is also a very practical reason for this style: Worn with a starched white waistcoat, there would not bet much room for a hunter or a larger and more bulkier watch.
Of course, one could wear any pocket watch on a long thin (yellow gold?) chain in the trouser pocket as shown in that 1930s picture by Incroyable. Once one really tries to do that, one runs into the difficulty of holding the chain in place (i.e. it tends to slide back into the pocket because of the watch moving around) and thus the subsequent scratching of your precious timepiece.

[Incroyable]

Rudolf: That is quite a lovely dress watch. Some of the dress watches I have seen also had the habit of having gems on the case, which of course bodes well for the evening.

I understand the Gruen ultrathin was the highest end timepiece they offered under the Dietrich Gruen name. There was also the Gruen Veri-Thin.

[Rudolf]

Dear Incroyable,
Gruen produced (better: retailed) quite a range of dress model watches of which the Verithin Extra Precision with 21jewels was the top model, though not the thinnest (Ultra, VeriThin Precision), if you do not count their 50th anniversary watch which sported 12k gold bridges , 2 diamonds and a (quite appaling) 18k pentagon case. Not the watch you would like to wear with your white tie, though the most expensive of the company. Introduced in 1924, it started at a mere $ 500.00 (in those days) !!

I have seen quite a few watches (swiss make, Audemars and Patek) that have diamonds or blue sapphires applied on the rim, very occasionally the case back (e.g. the owner's initials in diamonds). They are mainly platinum and not very much sought after by the collectors.

One can even find white gold flat repeaters for the evening (again Audemars, but I also remember a Jules Jurgensen) which are rare but not too overpriced due to their size.