Silk Mix

[Scot]

What is the advantage of mixing fabrics such as wool or linen with silk?

[Simon A]

Pure silk wears quite hot, even at light weights, and does not breathe very well. It may be shiny, which is not so desirable in menswear, and is not very durable. Mixing it with wool may make it more durable, more able to breathe, and tones down the shine, while retaining a luxurious, pleasant hand. Silk in the blend takes dye very well and gives a certain boldness of colour that wool won't. Some like the appearance, some don't.

[Scot]

Pure silk wears quite hot, even at light weights, and does not breathe very well. It may be shiny, which is not so desirable in menswear, and is not very durable. Mixing it with wool may make it more durable, more able to breathe, and tones down the shine, while retaining a luxurious, pleasant hand. Silk in the blend takes dye very well and gives a certain boldness of colour that wool won't. Some like the appearance, some don't.

So the only benefit of incorporating a small percentage of silk (10-20% say) into wool or linen is that the resulting fabric will have a better colour?

[Simon A]

It tends to have a slightly greater lustre, and a smoother hand, as well as more pronounced colour. I think 10% won't make a great difference, but 20% silk/80% wool jackets look slightly lustrous without being shiny. Not sure what the blend with linen is like.

The Italians make quite a lot of these blends, but both Huddersfield Fine Worsted (Ascot) and Harrisons (Sunbeam) make them in the UK. If you call on your tailor, you can see the effect for yourself.

[Mark Seitelman]

While a purist might only want to wear 100% anything, there are advantages to a hybrid mixed with wool or silk or even both.

It's similar to the choice of drinking coffee black or with milk and all its variations (e.g., latte, capucinco, etc.) It can be a matter of choice.

100% linen wrinkles terribly. It can be blended with silk or wool or both to make a lightweight fabric that does not wrinkle so badly. The cloth has its own properties. It may not be 100% linen, but it can have some of the appearance of linen without the wrinkles. On the other hand, nothing equals the look and feel of 100% linen.

100% mohair is very rarely used. I do not recall seeing any. It is too shiney, stiff, and breakable. (You can get a run similar to what women experience with stockings.) Typically, it is mixed with wool for some softness and durability. Generally, it is 60% or more wool. Today I am wearing a Holland & Sherry cloth with 80% wool and 20% mohair.

A 100% silk suit is very dressy, very elegant, and very Italian. However, it comes in limited colors. It may get a raised eyebrow from conservative business and social circles. The dressiness and sheen is toned-downed when mixed with wool. However, nothing equals the look of 100% Dupioni silk suit, and I think that it is the coolest suit for warm weather. (Some maintain that it wears "hot", but the opposite has been my experience. It is as light as p.j.'s.)

Also, the hybrid cloth takes-on a different look and hand than a pure cloth. The Neopolitan merchant, Ariston, has quite a few interesting mixtures of wools and linen and silks. The Italians are masters of this.

Good luck.

[salsatron]

I have a pair of charcoal grey trousers that are 85% wool, 15% silk. It may be a bit shiny for some (I do have to be a little cautious about what I wear them with), but the real beauty of them is how comfortable they are. Some woollen trousers can itch like buggery, but these part silk trousers feel like wearing water - I love them.