Coat Balance

[dempsy444]

Hello Gentleman,

Below is an informative post on coat balance by Stephen at the blog, The Simply Refined. He speaks of four ways a coat needs to be balanced: side to side, front to back, around the buttons, and with the trousers. He explains it well and it all makes perfect sense. Since this is a very experienced bunch, I'm curious if anyone would add other ways to this list? I suppose there should also be balance across the different elements of the coat too, such as the pockets, lapels, buttons, etc.? and these should also be balanced with the frame of the person. For example, very wide lapels on a smaller, thinner frame, may not be balanced with the owner? But, this is just me speculating from a mostly uneducated intuition....

http://www.thesimplyrefined.com/coat-balance-critical/

[alden]

In purely technical terms, the one balance a good tailor will establish in a coat is front to back. Think of a plumb line, does the coat plumb or not? If it is too short or long in the front or back, all kinds of bad results will be seen and readily identified (and corrected) by a good tailor.

We use the word balance otherwise to describe the overall pleasing look in a coat where no particular detail dominates or distracts from the image of the whole. Balance, in this sense, can also be used to describe color choices and texture.

What you are heading towards in the description you cite is symmetry. And all you need to do is study some fascist era art to know its failings. Dissonance is important in dress as well. We are not looking for architectural perfection, we are looking for Style. And that can come in many shapes, and sizes. If it works, if the image is pleasing, we recognize its gentle equilibrium.

Cheers

[dempsy444]

Thanks, Michael. Your comments are very illuminating. To your point about dissonance, I recently started feeling this way about tie knots. There is something appealing about a perfectly tied knot but also something vulgar. I notice that the Italians like to often tie a disproportionate knot with a well made suit, which can be alluring. One can see this in the documentary, O'mast.

[Frans]

Interesting, thank you

Souster & Hicks put it in other words:

You can get every single measurement correct to the 1/8th of an inch, but if you fail to notice things such as one shoulder lower than the other, prominent hip or seat, it will affect the fit and look of the suit. The most essential thing to remember is balance. If the balance is not correct, the suit will not fit at all. Balance is a question of evaluating someone’s posture.

For instance, if they stand erect you’ll find that the jacket will go up at the front and down at the back. You’ll also find excess fabric trapped between the shoulder blades and (...)

from their blog:
http://sousterandhicks.com/insight/its- ... ce-is-key/